Cool, no veneers for me. I just like the raw look of BB Ply.
I haven't had a chance to say it but after I saw Bob's designs, I was blown away by the attention to detail and the excellently designed plans
. I am so glad I went this route. I am an engineer so I feel really pleased when I see properly done plans. Bob has been a joy to communicate with and he is patient enough to answer my truckload of questions.Regarding the BB Ply I really like it. I haven't worked with MDF but with other particle fibre board (of slightly better quality) but I like BB Ply much better.
Chris,
Understand that some of you might be looking forward to the soft retirement thing, but if you guys are off the radar for a while, we tend to miss you!
Indeed. Especially for people like me.
A quick update on the project: I have been a bit busy with work, but managed some time off to go to Whitten Timbers here in south London zone 1 (30 min bus ride from Southwark Station next to London Bridge) and it has been a good experience so far.
For anyone interested they sell Birch ply 8x4 ft 12mm (£33) and they will cut it for you as well(£20) all for ~£50 inc VAT. The base and some braces of the design requires an extra (4ftx2ft) so I need to go back for those and to get the other pieces as it was too heavy for me to carry
. I attached pictures of the panels, they came out nice as well, with good measurement accuracy.I now need a router (and bits as well). The Bosch routers are (+£70) which seem good but with the bits this is a significant investment. I am thinking of getting a used one here in London, UK. I anyone is looking to get rid of their old ones, you know what to do
. I could get someone with a router to do it for me but I think it would be a handy tool to have?Annafee
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Hi Sadat,
Good to see you've got the panels cut. The cuts look nice and clean from the pics. However they look kind of squarish instead on rectangular - is that because of the camera angle?
Would Whitten Timbers be able to help with the holes in the baffle?
A router is a useful tool if you are doing stuff that uses it. With a jasper jig, a plunge router is very useful to make the holes for the driver. Plus if you are into dados and rebates, then very handy too.
Good to see you've got the panels cut. The cuts look nice and clean from the pics. However they look kind of squarish instead on rectangular - is that because of the camera angle?
Would Whitten Timbers be able to help with the holes in the baffle?
A router is a useful tool if you are doing stuff that uses it.
With a jasper jig, a plunge router is very useful to make the holes for the driver. Plus if you are into dados and rebates, then very handy too.
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I now need a router (and bits as well). The Bosch routers are (+£70) which seem good but with the bits this is a significant investment. I am thinking of getting a used one here in London, UK. I anyone is looking to get rid of their old ones, you know what to do
Annafee
I have an old router (20 yrs) that I bought brand new and used for only one project. It's sitting at my Dad's place in Ross-on-Wye. It's yours for free if there's someway for you to get it. I'm not sure how much it would cost to post it. It was working when I left it with my Dad (who never used it) but no idea what state it is in given that it's been sitting idle and collecting dust.
I built my first speakers without one but the drivers didn't have to be recessed. My first speakers used Fostex. I was very relieved to read that you didn't go with Fostex, unless you like to feel like somebody is sticking needles in your ears. I've built a set of Pencil's using the Alpair 10.3 for a friend who drives it with a DIY SET amplifier and is very happy with them for several years.
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Hi all,
Sorry for the very late reply. I took a long summer break and went back home. Then jumped straight back to work and been a bit busy lately.
Actually those where just the braces; I just wanted to show off the clean cuts.
Unfortunately not quite just finished yet but still in good progress. I'd say ~60% done. trying to balance work and hobbies.
Here's my album for the project (Google Photos):Work Times: London Full Range MLTL MA A10.3M - Google Photos
You can see all the progress in here.
Thanks a lot for the help and kindness. I got impatient and went for the Bosch router anyway (Pictures: Gadgets & Tools: Router - Google Photos) . From my beginner experience with routers it seems quite good and I'd recommend it.
As for the build, I am now deciding which damping material to use inside the cabinet. Bob suggested to use Owen Corning Fibreglass 703 which unfortunately is not available in the UK. I am thinking of using Rockwool's mineral wool: Rockwool RWA45 Acoustic Insulation Slab 100mm x 1200mm x 600mm (2.88m2/ Pack) | Travis Perkins. But those are quite thick slabs (minimum thickness available 50mm") Any suggestions on damping material anyone?
Sorry for the very late reply. I took a long summer break and went back home. Then jumped straight back to work and been a bit busy lately.
Actually those where just the braces; I just wanted to show off the clean cuts.
Any progress? Hopefully you're just too busy enjoying music from your new speakers!
Unfortunately not quite just finished yet but still in good progress. I'd say ~60% done. trying to balance work and hobbies.
Here's my album for the project (Google Photos):Work Times: London Full Range MLTL MA A10.3M - Google Photos
You can see all the progress in here.
Thanks a lot for the help and kindness. I got impatient and went for the Bosch router anyway (Pictures: Gadgets & Tools: Router - Google Photos) . From my beginner experience with routers it seems quite good and I'd recommend it.
As for the build, I am now deciding which damping material to use inside the cabinet. Bob suggested to use Owen Corning Fibreglass 703 which unfortunately is not available in the UK. I am thinking of using Rockwool's mineral wool: Rockwool RWA45 Acoustic Insulation Slab 100mm x 1200mm x 600mm (2.88m2/ Pack) | Travis Perkins. But those are quite thick slabs (minimum thickness available 50mm") Any suggestions on damping material anyone?
Sadat,
In the particular design you are building, does it involve lining the inside walls with a damping material only? In addition to the lining, do the plans advise use of poly-fill material also?
Edit: Just had a look at your photo album - looks like the build is coming together nicely.
In the particular design you are building, does it involve lining the inside walls with a damping material only? In addition to the lining, do the plans advise use of poly-fill material also?
Edit: Just had a look at your photo album - looks like the build is coming together nicely.
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Thanks
.I was looking at Bob's Site and there are some great resources on construction techniques. I found two pages:
1. M-Series Construction Details
This is the one I am building. AFAIK the plans (M-Series MLTL)only mention the damping material to be used as lining. The material list on plans doesn't mention the use of poly-fill but on this site he says polyfil can be added according to listener needs. And also from the construction details I'd say only the damping material is used as lining.
2. Construction Techniques
These are the construction details for another design which uses cement board/hardwood plywood depending on material used + fibreglass (damping material) as lining. It also mentions that polyester batting can be used as an alternate. I don't know if it can be used on the M-Series design.
Hi Dave,
I am indeed making Bob's MLTL M Series. Which decorative bezel covers are you referring to? These: Shared album - Annafee Azad - Google Photos
Sadat,
I asked because I was aware that some of Bob's design do not require any additional poly-fill material, the lining is sufficient. For lining the insides, take a look at this material:
Swaledale 54 Pure Wool Carpet Underlay.
Read that pure wool felt does a good job for internal lining. I would like to use it some time, but did not get the opportunity to get some of this material yet.
I asked because I was aware that some of Bob's design do not require any additional poly-fill material, the lining is sufficient. For lining the insides, take a look at this material:
Swaledale 54 Pure Wool Carpet Underlay.
Read that pure wool felt does a good job for internal lining. I would like to use it some time, but did not get the opportunity to get some of this material yet.
No, those are Bob’s supraBaffles. I was referring to the platic bezel cover that comes with the driver that it looked like you were using as a template.
dave
Great! Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into it. So what other materials do you usually go for and would suggest?
Oh alright. I see. Yes I am planning to use it. I was planning to just screw them on. Any benefits of using epoxy/not using the driver nameplate at all? Furthermore what's the take for you guys on lining damping material? Pure Cotton like suggested above,Mineral Wool, Polyester Batting any experiences?
As I recall, the hole for mounting screws is countersunk into the cast main flange, not the extra rings, which are too thin to withstand to likely amount of torque applied if you used larger diameter headed screws or washers. I very much like the supplied screws, which are not a standard tapered shank wood screw, but more like a coarse thread sheet metal screw. With a properly piloted and pre-tapped hole, they work very well - particularly in Baltic Birch plywood. Some guys even manage to crack the 8mm thick flanges - so whatever screws you use, do not over tighten.
As for damping material - on most of my builds I use a product called UltraTouch - it's 1/2" felted recycled denim with a bonded synthetic fabric backer. Similar materials would be felted wool or cotton. I built a pair of Bob's M10A10 a couple of years ago, and he likes lining walls with thicker fibreglass, but I used the 2" thick version of UltraTouch home insulation.
As for damping material - on most of my builds I use a product called UltraTouch - it's 1/2" felted recycled denim with a bonded synthetic fabric backer. Similar materials would be felted wool or cotton. I built a pair of Bob's M10A10 a couple of years ago, and he likes lining walls with thicker fibreglass, but I used the 2" thick version of UltraTouch home insulation.
The bezel covers do not screw on, they have to be attached with epoxy. Not so much that it squeezes out mind you.
Drivers are far to often affixed with overtightened screws. With the Marl Audio you can damage the frames. Screws should be tightened just to the point that a washer (real or imaginary) under the head no longer turns.
dave
Drivers are far to often affixed with overtightened screws. With the Marl Audio you can damage the frames. Screws should be tightened just to the point that a washer (real or imaginary) under the head no longer turns.
dave
Based on local availability, I've used polyester batting and jute felt for lining the internal walls of cabinets. I prefer jute felt.
Thanks for the advice. I will keep these in mind when mounting the MA drivers.
I can relate to jute!
Thanks for the advice. The denim insulation is interesting but similar to owens corning it's quite hard to find in the UK.
From this forum: (Owens Corning 703 equivalent in UK - Gearslutz Pro Audio Community)
The mineralwool RW45 seems to be of same density and a good replacement to the Owens Corning 703.
It's readily available and cheap apart from one major problem. Thickness and bulk purchase. For instance:
1. Rockwool RWA45 Acoustic Insulation Slab 100mm x 1200mm x 600mm (2.88m2/ Pack) | Travis Perkins
Here the thickness is 100mm whereas I need 25mm. The item weighs 12 kgs!
2. 25mm Rockwool RWA45 11.52 M
Here the coverage is 11.5 m^2 with same weight! I only need roughly 2m^2 of coverage!
I need to find where they sell this stuff in smaller net weights!
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