Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Full Range TC9 Line Array CNC Cabinet
Full Range TC9 Line Array CNC Cabinet
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 9th February 2017, 04:45 PM   #21
oneplustwo is offline oneplustwo  United States
diyAudio Member
 
oneplustwo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: San Francisco
Quote:
Originally Posted by fluid View Post
Interesting, looks like they have made a sandwich of an outer baffle with roundover which maybe holds the driver down and the glue acts as a gasket. How do you then isolate the face baffle from everything else? This is why I couldn't find something simple.
Could you use the gasket along the back and then use screws that have a small isolation washer sandwiched between the screw head and the frame? It would stick out a little bit. And perhaps not truly isolated. But it's pretty simple. Or maybe a small o-ring?
Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
My Projects
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th February 2017, 09:49 PM   #22
Halair is offline Halair  Norway
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Norway
Quote:
Originally Posted by fluid View Post
Interesting, looks like they have made a sandwich of an outer baffle with roundover which maybe holds the driver down and the glue acts as a gasket. How do you then isolate the face baffle from everything else? This is why I couldn't find something simple.

Are you thinking about a Line array Mark 2 like you mention in that thread?
I believe they add a gasket material (called VS foil but not sure that is a specific name or anything) on the back side of the driver cover baffle, which is just pressure fit against the front of the drivers

If I get around to a mk2 build the internals of that build is something I would seriously consider...or a curved cabinet like wesayso
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th February 2017, 11:28 PM   #23
wesayso is online now wesayso  Netherlands
diyAudio Member
 
wesayso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
Could you use the gasket along the back and then use screws that have a small isolation washer sandwiched between the screw head and the frame? It would stick out a little bit. And perhaps not truly isolated. But it's pretty simple. Or maybe a small o-ring?
Click the image to open in full size.
That's what I use to fasten my "double baffle" to the enclosure. With damping in front and to the rear of the "floating" inner baffle that has the drivers bolted to them.

Again, checked with impedance measurements. A measurable difference compared to just bolting it down. I used rubber rings made from an old inner tyre first, also tried neoprene rings.

Here's proof of the tests:
Click the image to open in full size.

__________________
Use Science to design your speakers and they will sound like a piece of Art...
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th February 2017, 10:47 AM   #24
fluid is offline fluid  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by Halair View Post
I believe they add a gasket material (called VS foil but not sure that is a specific name or anything) on the back side of the driver cover baffle, which is just pressure fit against the front of the drivers

If I get around to a mk2 build the internals of that build is something I would seriously consider...or a curved cabinet like wesayso
I don't plan to have a double baffle at this point but it is still possible to be retrofitted later if I felt it was needed.

I also really wanted to make a curved cabinet using the frame and laminated ply sheets, partly because I have a few sheets of 3mm luan ply that I got for nothing, turned out to be too much work at this point though.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th February 2017, 10:51 AM   #25
fluid is offline fluid  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Default Rubber Damping Cut

Some progress today, I have cut the rubber sheet up into the correct size segments to go on the side walls.

Sorry for the grainy pictures. The rubber is now sandwiched between the cabinet parts for a few days to try and take out the slight bend in it from being stored rolled up for a long time.

Full Range TC9 Line Array CNC Cabinet-img_0274-jpg

Full Range TC9 Line Array CNC Cabinet-img_0275-jpg
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0274.jpg (263.0 KB, 1141 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0275.jpg (296.5 KB, 1141 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th February 2017, 10:51 AM   #26
wesayso is online now wesayso  Netherlands
diyAudio Member
 
wesayso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
I hope we aren't keeping you from the actual build , I can hardly wait!

(I typed too soon, progress! )
__________________
Use Science to design your speakers and they will sound like a piece of Art...
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th February 2017, 11:12 AM   #27
fluid is offline fluid  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by wesayso View Post
I hope we aren't keeping you from the actual build , I can hardly wait!

(I typed too soon, progress! )
No I am trying to avoid paralysis by analysis wherever possible

Next is to get the top and bottom plates glued together and some dowel holes drilled in the sides for alignment and strength when glued. These are the parts that are hard to get done by CNC as they are on the edges.

I have had to think of how I can glue it up in stages as it takes a lot of clamps, I have quite a few but not enough to do a full cabinet all at the one time properly. Because of the length of the panels I really need two clamps per brace along with almost the same amount again front to bak to keep everything aligned.

My plan is to
1. glue the top and bottom parts to the side with the dowels,
2. glue the back on
3. glue the braces in (then organise the wiring and fill with damping)
4. glue the front baffle on with some dowels for strength and alignment
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2017, 03:19 AM   #28
fluid is offline fluid  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
I won't be able to do much more in building the arrays for a few days so I thought that I would post some information on the speakers I have been using up to now.

I have built two sets of Linkwitz dipoles. I started with Orion, an analogue crossover and LM4780 chipamps. The original painted MDF cabinet I made took some damage when moving house so I rebuilt the cabinet in a different style using hoop pine plywood and solid oak strips. I think it looks much better. It is hard to compare the sound as I have never heard the different cabinets in the same room. I also put the crossover in a nicer looking case.

IMG_0204.jpg

IMG_0183.jpg

IMG_0194.jpg

IMG_0196.jpg

As is always the case it took me so long to make the first Orion cabinet that Linkwitz had come up with a new version by the time I was finished. The LX521 was supposed to be better so I decided to build one and see. I wanted to use a DSP as the analogue crossover had become expensive and limited, Najda fitted the bill so I built one into a case with a linear power supply. I felt the chipamps were a little underpowered and could trigger the spike protection before the woofer gave out so I built an 8 channel Hypex amp to allow the LX521 to become 4 way active. There is also a picture of the LX521 in my current living room.

IMG_0170.jpg

IMG_0173.jpg

IMG_0226.jpg

IMG_0219.jpg

IMG_0058.jpg

IMG_0063.jpg
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2017, 03:46 AM   #29
fluid is offline fluid  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
I was really impressed with Orion when I first built them, partly because it was the first really top notch system that I had owned, it was truly full range in comparison to the bookshelf speakers I had before and the room they were in let them work very well. The right channel had the rear wave firing into an adjoining room, the left channel also had plenty of space to the side wall and there was a good distance behind the listening position to the rear wall so there were limited early reflections.

I had moved twice by the time LX521 was completed fully and the room they are now in is much less dipole friendly. Rear wall is closer, side walls are closer and the rear wave contributes much more with a reflection off the front wall. The 45 degree toe in and dipole nulls to the side help control the side wall reflections and limit the damage from the TV and cabinet to some extent. Due to the dimensions of the room and the fact that it is smaller lead to a few bass notes being boomy until the placement was tweaked a little to minimize the effect from room boundaries.

What I have found is that a dipole with enough room to breathe is a really natural sounding speaker that works with any style of music that I listen to.

The dipole in a more constrained room like I have now is more hit and miss. Jazz and acoustic music is magical the clarity and precision of the LX521 is outstanding. Almost too good as I have been able to hear issues with the recording of certain records which I had not noticed before even when listening on good headphones. The full range dipole with rear firing tweeter seems to be able to amplify some types of distortion, my Orion with no rear tweeter is more forgiving in this regard.

What seems to happen to rock music is that it sounds like too much reverb has been added to the mix. Jazz and acoustic music sounds spacious, rock sounds muffled and muddy in comparison.

I have experimented a little by placing some egg crate foam panels behind and a little to one side of the cabinets on the front wall, this helps and reduces the extra reverb effect somewhat.

The bass that the two 10" SEAS woofers can put out is quite impressive and without a high pass filter goes all the way down.

The LX521 has less dipole boost down low in comparison to Orion, I used the DSP to create a digital crossover for Orion and it was not as good as the analogue one. I found it very hard to avoid clipping in the DSP with bass transients and it was often tracks that I wasn't expecting to clip that did it. I had to apply too much digital attenuation and even with the analogue volume control in Najda with 15dB of boost to make up the gain, resolution was lost in the converters and it just sounded wrong. The analogue crossover had no issues with the boost needed.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2017, 03:57 AM   #30
fluid is offline fluid  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
I found two tracks to be very useful in testing the low frequency capabilities.

One is "Hold Back the River" by James Bay.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqiH0ZSkM9I

I really like this song, the acoustic space is quite appealing and this sounds amazing with LX521. The double bass has some really difficult transients, this is the track I had the most trouble with clipping the DSP.

The other is "Free" by Rudimental feat Emeli Sande.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDPW_g2AhAU

This track has a significant amount of very low frequency energy in a synthetic base line. It really makes the dipole woofers move!

This is the spectrum from Audacity

Free Spectrum.JPG

Wesayso if you are reading this have you tried either of these two tracks on your arrays? If you have I would be interested to know how they handled them.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Full Range TC9 Line Array CNC CabinetHide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Full range line array inrank Full Range 43 16th November 2017 08:25 AM
Full range line array in a tube carpenter Full Range 44 7th January 2014 03:19 PM
Omni full range line array??? Melo theory Full Range 42 25th November 2012 06:44 AM
Full-range line array? mazeroth Full Range 20 1st November 2004 04:47 PM
line array with full range drivers? leadbelly Multi-Way 9 25th January 2003 05:48 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:25 AM.


Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 14.29%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2019 diyAudio
Wiki