There is no wall behind those speakers and it's going to be low volume. That's why I'm thinking about doing a prototype before committing to a real build.
Doesn't changing driver require changing in enclosure design because of the T/S parameters change? The main reason I went with a proven design because I don't think I'm ready to make my own design. I don't want to screw up the first ever one and declare DIY is not up to par with commercial one due to my own fault.
That's certainly true - selecting a different driver requires (should require) re-sim'ing the intended enclosure and tweaking to suit the new driver.... Whether it be volume, length or driver position. Essentially, every driver deserves its own "designer" enclosure(s).
Tabaq Micro:-
I think you could bite the bullet and get a two kits cut in MDF to start with. See how those go and then decide whether they deserve finishing nicely or if a rethink is required.
If audio is always played through computer, there is a lot of elbow room for tweaking the response.
Tabaq Micro:-
I think you could bite the bullet and get a two kits cut in MDF to start with. See how those go and then decide whether they deserve finishing nicely or if a rethink is required.
If audio is always played through computer, there is a lot of elbow room for tweaking the response.
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton...ft-2-way-speaker-cabinet-gloss-black--302-710
If you want to get started, without all the sawdust.
If you want to get started, without all the sawdust.
slim wall hangers circa madmen
i found these at a local auction house, sound great and were refirbushed recently so fortunate do not have to recone.
i like them all around , odd they are semi open on rear side except fabric.
still researching details but for a office wall or den will work.
will get dims and internal pics later. seem to be 3 way.
i found these at a local auction house, sound great and were refirbushed recently so fortunate do not have to recone.
i like them all around , odd they are semi open on rear side except fabric.
still researching details but for a office wall or den will work.
will get dims and internal pics later. seem to be 3 way.
Attachments
I finally got time to do it. Too bad there is no 9mm in my area (US). The closest thing I found is 1/2". I re-did the dimension. Will try it again this weekend.
I do have a question on building prototype though. I initially thinking about using glue only but realize there is no way I can open it back up for any modification. Do you guys use screw for prototyping or other technique?
I do have a question on building prototype though. I initially thinking about using glue only but realize there is no way I can open it back up for any modification. Do you guys use screw for prototyping or other technique?
If it's just to get a feel for the sound, try "many" wood clamps to start with.
As for details of the building.... Some run a wooden bead around the baffle or the back panel and make it removable. Use foam gasket/weather strip or similar plus screws into the wooden moulding.
What jerm is talking about would be termed a cleat or batten - if you're using 1/2" material, I'd make them at least 1" wide, and carefully pilot drill for the mounting screws. Providde you're not taking the back panel off more than a few times, coarse thread sheet metal screws actually work quite well for this. Once you're happy with the design, remove the gasketing and glue / screw it back up. Counter sink the screws to enable flush trimming / sanding of the sides if the back is now inset by the thickness of the gasket; but be careful if trimming with a router - when screws are countersunk you want to ensure the bearing is set to miss them, otherwise you'll get major divots in the sides. Not a structural problem, but certainly aesthetic.
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