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"Wall-integrated" corner loaded line array with Vifa TC9 drivers
"Wall-integrated" corner loaded line array with Vifa TC9 drivers
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Old 4th May 2016, 08:27 AM   #21
wesayso is offline wesayso  Netherlands
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I've used it for quite a while. It allowed quick experiments with the custom tab.
I did use REW for measurements, to be able to see what you've got.
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Old 6th May 2016, 05:01 PM   #22
dynomike is offline dynomike  Canada
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So what's your plan for "wall integration"? It sounds like you could avoid the (very close) first reflection problems which have been troubling me over here: TC6WD (PE buyout) Line Array - Lessons Learned

Can you leave a space open in the corner, ie. not have studs meeting at the corner? It would be ideal to have the center line of the drivers exactly aligned to the corner.
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File Type: png corner.png (4.4 KB, 634 views)
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Old 6th May 2016, 06:22 PM   #23
oneplustwo is offline oneplustwo  United States
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I haven't gotten that far into the details yet but was thinking about something similar to what RA7 had done but perhaps a bit closer to the corner through building some of the volume into the wall (albeit not the specific corner). That seemed like it would be pretty close to ideal but your idea could have potential as well. I'm not sure how much flexibility I have from a framing POV but I'll have the conversation with my GC!

Have you seen any one else do something similar? And is the benefit significant?


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Originally Posted by dynomike View Post
So what's your plan for "wall integration"? It sounds like you could avoid the (very close) first reflection problems which have been troubling me over here: TC6WD (PE buyout) Line Array - Lessons Learned

Can you leave a space open in the corner, ie. not have studs meeting at the corner? It would be ideal to have the center line of the drivers exactly aligned to the corner.
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Old 6th May 2016, 10:48 PM   #24
oneplustwo is offline oneplustwo  United States
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I happened to run into my contractor this afternoon and he said that he can work with me on the framing of the corners. No big deal since that section of framing doesn't actually need to do anything significant structurally.

Here's my idea for how to do this:
Click the image to open in full size.

The front face of the 45 degree angle is a piece of 3/4" plywood 3.3" across, the same width as the squared off sides of the speaker basket. I would cut 45 degree angles to glue up to the 1.1"x1" square pieces. Those would in turn be glued to the framing which would be made up of a half a 2x4 which would be glued to a full 2x4 that makes up the "real" framing of the wall.

Also, on the backside (facing the garage and hallway), I'm thinking there would be 3/4" plywood screwed into the 2x4 framing along with a 1x1 support in the corner. I would be able to access the drivers from the rear through these panels.

That puts me at almost exactly 2.5L per driver (the numbered boxes are me taking the lazy way out to figure out sq in then multiplied by the 3.3" driver height and converted to L). And the drivers would be essentially flush with the walls minimizing reflections as much as possible effectively.

I'm not sure exactly how the interface with the sheetrock would work out... I guess they would tape and mud it. Also, I'm not sure how precisely the framers can build to this idea given it would need to be solid from floor to ceiling. So perhaps I could design in some "slop" either via slotted L brackets connecting the 1"x1.1" piece to the 2x4 or similar flexibility?

Would love upgrade ideas!
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Old 6th May 2016, 11:59 PM   #25
oneplustwo is offline oneplustwo  United States
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In other news, I got DRC Designer to install via WINE. Are there tutorials or tips for DRC designer out there as well beyond what's in the main website?
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Last edited by oneplustwo; 7th May 2016 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 7th May 2016, 12:14 AM   #26
dynomike is offline dynomike  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
I haven't gotten that far into the details yet but was thinking about something similar to what RA7 had done but perhaps a bit closer to the corner through building some of the volume into the wall (albeit not the specific corner). That seemed like it would be pretty close to ideal but your idea could have potential as well. I'm not sure how much flexibility I have from a framing POV but I'll have the conversation with my GC!

Have you seen any one else do something similar? And is the benefit significant?
Nope I've never seen it done! Did you see the simulations I linked to though? Some pretty smeary stuff going on from the close reflections with corner arrays, which you could totally avoid with a "in-wall corner" build. Could also put some absorbtion on the side/front walls at the reflection points (immediately next to the line) - that's what I'm planning on doing.
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Old 7th May 2016, 12:27 AM   #27
dynomike is offline dynomike  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
Here's my idea for how to do this:

The front face of the 45 degree angle is a piece of 3/4" plywood 3.3" across, the same width as the squared off sides of the speaker basket. I would cut 45 degree angles to glue up to the 1.1"x1" square pieces. Those would in turn be glued to the framing which would be made up of a half a 2x4 which would be glued to a full 2x4 that makes up the "real" framing of the wall.

Also, on the backside (facing the garage and hallway), I'm thinking there would be 3/4" plywood screwed into the 2x4 framing along with a 1x1 support in the corner. I would be able to access the drivers from the rear through these panels.

That puts me at almost exactly 2.5L per driver (the numbered boxes are me taking the lazy way out to figure out sq in then multiplied by the 3.3" driver height and converted to L). And the drivers would be essentially flush with the walls minimizing reflections as much as possible effectively.

I'm not sure exactly how the interface with the sheetrock would work out... I guess they would tape and mud it. Also, I'm not sure how precisely the framers can build to this idea given it would need to be solid from floor to ceiling. So perhaps I could design in some "slop" either via slotted L brackets connecting the 1"x1.1" piece to the 2x4 or similar flexibility?

Would love upgrade ideas!
Looks great! Why not use a 2x3 in place of the 2x2, lose the 1" piece and run the drywall right up against the angled piece? You would only have to fabricate the angled piece ahead of time and it can be mudded in and painted along with the walls. I would recommend countersinking for nice looks - best case, have the angled piece (baffle) CNC'd.

My guess is that this will work awesome. Very clean.
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Old 7th May 2016, 04:08 AM   #28
oneplustwo is offline oneplustwo  United States
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I think I understand what you're saying. Something like this?

Click the image to open in full size.

I wasn't sure if they could get the sheet rock mitred like that for a tight fit so that's why I had originally had a square cut.
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Old 7th May 2016, 07:26 AM   #29
dynomike is offline dynomike  Canada
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ah no, what i actually meant was like this. (attached)

doing the miter cut on the drywall should be avoided if possible!

rip the 2x3 out of a 2x4 to get a nice clean edge for the baffle to attach. the 2x3 can be toenailed into the adjacent 2x4 stud and plates on top/bottom. not sure how you were planning to attach the baffle to the framing. not critical really as long as there is an airseal. could build the whole corner apparatus and then nail it in at once. (ie, the surrounding 2x4's, 2x3's and baffle)

oh, one more thing make sure to allow airflow for the drivers on the back. that means a chamfer on the backside or some kind of interesting cutout shape (possible with CNC). attached another picture of the way i've been cutting out for the TC6 drivers.
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File Type: png like-this.png (561.4 KB, 512 views)
File Type: png maximum airflow.png (483.4 KB, 512 views)

Last edited by dynomike; 7th May 2016 at 07:29 AM.
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Old 7th May 2016, 08:16 AM   #30
wesayso is offline wesayso  Netherlands
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I agree on chamfering the back...

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

(this part of my baffle is only 10 mm thick)

I've done this with a router and a template. So if CNC isn't an option you can still do it .

Last edited by wesayso; 7th May 2016 at 08:19 AM.
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