rft drivers

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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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Some of the old RTFs are good -- RFT was a large East German OEM so there was a large spread in terms of quality.

The Philips full-ranges are quite good... the older alnicos particularily so, but the newer ceramic 5s & 6s are no slouches either.

dave
 

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indeed, i didnt knew that there were so good things so cheap,
i have found excellent phillips drivers, a guy sells them, there mucg better then the greencones, (he also sells his 2a3 which powered it) it wont go more then 60 euro for a pair, and the same for 8 inch greencones that are in super condition. SO thats exatly what im gonna buy, even for my borther and friends also if it works out fine for me.

But i want a sub and a supertweeter. Even if it sounds very good without. Because i like very deep bass,

BUT NOW SOME QUESTIONS

1) i want to build an woofer, i dont want cinema, i just want extreme fast, clear, transient bass respons, so i got to go for an sealed box i think. what do you think ? Which drivers i gotto buy: i need specifications, because i buy on ebay, so im depending on what they are offering. 2*8 inch of 1*12 inch ? the problem is, that i wanna make a speaker with on the botom the woofer,
the full range in open baffle and the supertweeter : just like the next picture

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


2) the next problem is offcourse : will the enclosure of the woofer not disture to much the full range ? (i expect that the full range comes it at 100hz or even more). (so mayb it is better with one 12 inch drive then two 8 because of the hight.

3) does anyone has specs of the greencone 8 inch, or the philips 2028, dont find anything.

4)how much energy is going into the drivers, the fullrange is always very limited qua wattage, (off course its high efficency, but maybe the woofer will not be, so we will see) But just for knowing, i think a lot of the wattage is going into the woofer and less into the tweeter. Is that so ?

5)since im a beginner, im gonna put up a measure system, im gonna buy a monacor electret mircorphone, and starting measuring, what software do you use for this ?

well, every comment is more then welcome
thanx a lot guys
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
then_dude said:
1) i want to build an woofer, i dont want cinema, i just want extreme fast, clear, transient bass respons, so i got to go for an sealed box i think. what do you think ? Which drivers i gotto buy: i need specifications, because i buy on ebay, so im depending on what they are offering. 2*8 inch of 1*12 inch ? the problem is, that i wanna make a speaker with on the botom the woofer,
the full range in open baffle and the supertweeter : just like the next picture

Exactly what i aspire to in my systems -- i call it a mostly full-range system. Pick a good full-range (i've got a collection of Foster FE103A i'm partial too.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Then add a pair of powered woofers... to integrate well with the full-range they need to be quite extended on the top. I also like to have a pr of drivers push-push per side. I usually look for vintage 10s or 12s that were used as midbasses. You may give up some ultimate extension on the bottom, but with room gain an aweful lot of subs are actually peaky -- have too much low bass.

And a supertweeter above the FR where it rolls off -- a single cap can do the job. I find that the dispersion on a horn sometimes mates better with the top of the FR as it rolls off.

dave
 
hello planet 10

so you would use the fe103a for fullrange, i have thought about it because its small and thus less beaming, but has a good frequency response,

the bass is indeed a lot of times boomy, i have found on ebay 15 inch goodmans, allright 15 inch maybe boomy, but im gonna have some room treatment, (i think there fs is about 30hz, so not really very low.

the highs are indeed with a supertweeter,

as well for the highs and the lows, im gonna look for a driver with a natural fall off 6 db per octaaf.

but since i dont have the specs of greencone or philips im gonna measure them, and then look further

but im gonna order aslo some 103A if i ran into them, just for fun you know. (oh yeah, i have found coral 5II flat drivers in perfect condition, so maybe i'm gonna buy them instead of the fe103a)


thanx a lot already
 
Konnichiwa,

then_dude said:

does somebody knows something about the RFT brand speakers

They cover a gamut from plainly crap to excellent. RFT was a large state owned concern in east germany, which acted as umbrella for at least 3 or 4 main speaker manufacturing Plants, which in turn often subcontracted to small private companies or cooperatives.

then_dude said:

i m looking for the specs of their drivers, for example the fullrange
RFT L 3401.

You will not find much in terms of T/S Data, the sensitivity of the L3401 was around 97-99db/W/m and it had a fairly high resonance 50-60Hz) and Qt (intended for open back PA boxes). Build was quite poor, compared to the higher quality stuff from either the west or eastern europe (such as the cast frame RFT's and the alnico magnet Lomo's from soviet russia).

Sonically the stock unit was inferior to older Eminece OEM units that where similar to the Beta 12LT but with lower powerhandling. So, think Beta 12LT.

Some of the better (cast frame) 12" Fullrange Drivers from RFT sound much better, also a number of small private companies and cooperatives specialised in modifying these cast frame 12" & 15" Units, often achieving surprising quality.

The L3401 however is pretty basic PA stuff and not that hot. If cheap buy them for all what it's worth. I suspect they will still sound nicer than many modern commercial supposedly "high fidelity" speakers with a suitable Amp.

Sayonara
 
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