OK, so my Fostex FE103-driven speakers are really breaking in after about 100 hours. And, skeptic that I was, I have to admit they are sounding better and better. So now, next time I don't want to have to wait so long.
For you Fostex guys, is there a more efficient way to break them in? Do they have to be in the enclosures, with the requisite air-flow-induced impedences, ect., to really break them in?
Or can I hook up the open-air drivers to an old receiver and let them be playing for a few days while I build my next enclosures and pop them in "ready to sing?"
GnD
For you Fostex guys, is there a more efficient way to break them in? Do they have to be in the enclosures, with the requisite air-flow-induced impedences, ect., to really break them in?
Or can I hook up the open-air drivers to an old receiver and let them be playing for a few days while I build my next enclosures and pop them in "ready to sing?"
GnD
I have tried to break speakers in with-out a box and by mounting them in a cardboard box, neither worked all that well. My guess is they need to be attached to a solid baffle for full cone movement (and related breaking in of the surround), but of course this doesn't neccesitate a box so much as just the front baffle...
Doug
Doug
I use a 1/3 octave warble tone generator. Other options include pink noise(buy a test cd with a pink noise track and just play that track on repeat) or dynamic music like large orchestral works. It takes a loud volume level to get the job done right. I use a simple sealed box tuned to ~.7Q and throw a blanket over it to keep the volume at a reasonable level so as not to bother my neighbors or myself. Good luck.
I've seen a Japanese website mention that enclosures need breaking-in too. This could be a reason why dcole didn't have much luck with just the drivers alone. I also noticed significant changes in sound for quite some time after installing my JX92Ss in proper enclosures. This is after they had been playing open baffle for a couple of months.
I guess you gotta wait for the glue in the enclosures to properly dry up, and the stresses in the wood to work themselves out. Any number of other things are probably happening too. Barring a solid concrete enclosure, I figure it's a concern in most cases.
Depending on how far you believe in the burning-in phenomenon, you'd have to consider the binding posts and internal wiring as well.
I'm not particularly interested in discussions about whether burn-in exists, or if it's just the time needed for our ears to get used to the new sound, but I KNOW it's a major pain the rump.
I guess you gotta wait for the glue in the enclosures to properly dry up, and the stresses in the wood to work themselves out. Any number of other things are probably happening too. Barring a solid concrete enclosure, I figure it's a concern in most cases.
Depending on how far you believe in the burning-in phenomenon, you'd have to consider the binding posts and internal wiring as well.
I'm not particularly interested in discussions about whether burn-in exists, or if it's just the time needed for our ears to get used to the new sound, but I KNOW it's a major pain the rump.
Bill Fitzpatrick said:
Hey, I am already broke. That is why I build my own speakers.
And from now on, I guess I'll have to break in my binding posts by tumbling them in the dryer for a month first....
What I will do (idea) is to steal my drivers out of the old enclosures and pop them right into the horns, which I will want to hear worse than the old enclosures.
The new drivers can break in in the old enclosures.
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