Very first Fullrange Build

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Hello everyone,

Been a long time lurker of this site over the years and I think it's now time to have a go at speaker building.
I've decided on a fullrange using the FF series Fostex drivers in either a Zigmahornet (FF85WK) or a Metronome (FF125WK.)

My question is this:

Are these drivers suitable for the cabinets I want to put them in and how do i figure out length and baffle step for the Metronome?

I've looked at the metronome tables and they only show FF225WK as a listed driver, so I'm pretty stumped as far as enclosure and port length.

Please be gentle, I'm not new to woodworking but this is my first ever speaker made from scratch!:)
 
I'd go for the Metronome, and you could contact Dave at the planet10 e-mail, but I'd imagine if the tables have FE127, those figures could be close enough to at least rough out your cut list for FF125WK

I heard the Zigmahornets with Merrill 4" driver at VSAC - either 2001 or 2003, and am maybe going out on a limb here, but would classify them as anemic - certainly compared to what the current FF-WK series are capable of in the half dozen or so enclosure designs in which I've heard them -well, actually only the 85 through 165.
 
Thanks ChrisB, I was definitely leaning towards the metronome but thought the Zigma might have fit the ticket as my room is only 3500mm by 3000mm approx so we're talking a pretty small area to fill with sound; the 4-5" driver is generally the sweet spot for my ears so far and the 85 is a small gamble in that regard but I've heard good things!

Is there any advice you could give on what type of stuffing, lining and bracing to use? I've heard of people just using carpet lining on the back wall of the enclosure all the way up to stuffing half the enclosure with acoustastuff or similar, so I'm a little clueless on that front!

Will either use structural or marine hardwood ply in 19mm as a default, unless i can source birch ply in Australia, so that's pretty well sorted.
 
I've not built a Metronome myself, there are several forum members who could provide much better advice in that regard.

Just to further confuse things, if you've not absolutely decided on the 85WK, another model and enclosure design worth considering would be the 105WK or 103SOL in Scott Lindgren's Vampyr. Woden Design | Vampyr-V

I've probably said before that the 85 is my favorite of the current Fostex FE/FF series - it is certainly a stunner for nearfield use and when as mid-tweet in a FAST 2-way- but as your above posts suggest a floorstander, the larger 105WK or 103SOL are well worth looking at.

First project - analysis paralysis - a wonderful thing :D
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
I'd go for the Metronome, and you could contact Dave at the planet10 e-mail, but I'd imagine if the tables have FE127, those figures could be close enough to at least rough out your cut list for FF125WK

Yes, the FE127 met millwork, some tuning changes are required to optimize it.

Zigmahornet was never really designed. Way too big for FF85, i'd suggest Frugel-Horn Lite for them.FF85wk is stupidly good aslong as you can live with little bass (they do an amazing job of giving an illusion of bass in the right cabinet)

Also, don't discard the idea of the FF105wk (almost has the DDR of the FF85wk with more bass and not near the issues with resonance* as the FF125wk) or the limited edition FE103 SOL.

* mostly fixable

dave
 
Thanks Dave, If the FF105 would suit the enclosure and give less trouble then it's probably a better way to go.

I've got the details mostly worked out, how is the driver offset is calculated from driver parameters and how port is size worked out for the QQWT? I couldn't really find anything to indicate how that's all worked out.

I've decided on carpet underlay or similar on the back and top wall of the cabinet and working up from there if needed, as the room is reasonably "live" at this stage.

You guys have been very helpful so far, I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on this one!
 
I've built two pairs of the Lance with the FF85 now and that driver certainly produces great sound. For your first build the Lance is an easy one too, all straight, square lines, basically using a 4" strip chop cut to various sizes, and an 8" strip for the 4 side pieces. It really doesn't get any easier even if you're not new to woodworking. There is a larger version for the larger drivers but I haven't heard nor tried to build one so I can't comment.
 
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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
I've got the details mostly worked out, how is the driver offset is calculated from driver parameters and how port is size worked out for the QQWT?

One models a met as a ML-V. But for the FF105 one of your fellow Ozians has already done a build…

Do't know if this is his, but someone simulated this for the FF105 (and i stashed it)

FF105WK.

L = 42"
So = 1 7/16" x 2 3/16"
Sl = 4 1/4" x 6 1/4"
Zd = 22 1/2"
Rp = 3/4" (due to availability of standard pipe it is actually 0.7608")
Lp = 2 1/4"

Radd = 1.5 Ohm

dave
 
Chrisb, The Vampyr-V looks really good as well and i might venture to build some after the mets; thanks a bunch for the link!

Thanks for the info Dave!

I've gathered that offset is measured from the top of enclosure like the others and that I should be working with 38mm internal width x 56mm length port.

Do I need baffle step correction? I've seen formulas for working it out but baffle width confuses me because it's not a parallel baffle!
 
Sometimes.

I'll just have to use my ears and see how it sounds then!

MVAsb7r.png


Do the dimensions of the "legs" and the semi-circular cutouts (in picture) have any relation to driver, or is it a matter of whatever flows best? I'm just about to do a Plan in Sketchup and make a cut list and next after I sort out that last minor detail.

Thanks everyone for your patience, I owe you pics and my impressions of these when they're done at the very least!
 
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