Frugel-horn XL driver?

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Having heard both in the XLs, I can confirm Zia's comments - in your case, the paper driver's additional sensitivity could be the determining factor between the Alpairs. The Fostex FF165WK also works well, and has an additional almost 4db of sensitivity over the 10P - along with the famous Fostex flavouring.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
As to driver sensitivity. Drivers i have had here and measured put:
A10p just over 90 dB.
A10.3 just over 87.5 dB.
FF165wk just over 91 dB.

As to the 10s in FHXL, it is 6 of one, half dozen of the other, they have a different set of compromises. The A10.3 takes much longer to break-in so an early comparison gives the A10p an edge.

The use of 2A3 SE would give the paper an edge, but even in my big room, we were happy with Bernie's 2A3 SE driving the even less sensitive A7.3 except when the wick was turned way up. How well your amp clips will play a role then.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


dave
 
Hi folks,

With regard to using the Fostex FF165WK in the FHXL, I'm a huge fan of Fostex and used them several times. However, as good as Fostex are, nothing screams 'cheap' like a silver dustcap, and I can't see the thinking behind equipping a quality driver with such a thing. Maybe some sonic benefit?

Nevertheless a silver dust cap rules out the FF165WK for me...

My question therefore, is the FE166EN a suitable replacement? I'm sure it would be, but many of you guys have rather more experience than I and can comment definitively.

I rather like the Sigma variation but too expensive for me, and the FR looks very lumpy.

I always dope the cones with some recommended artists varnish in an effort to stiffen up the cone, bypassing Fostex's intense R&D cos I think I know better:)

Anyway enough of that, just asking for recommendations...

Cheers guys and greetings from Australia. Martin
 
FF166WK

Like the FH3 with FE126En, you need to maximize bass potential if you use FE166En or FE168e∑ — both of which people say works fine. Of the 3, i prefer the sound of the FF165wk. The metal dustcap is to extend the top with no whizzer… and it works pretty well.

dave

Cheers Dave, I'm glad of a considered opinion..

Still, I have trouble with the FF165WK. If somehow I could hide or disguise the silver dustcap I might consider it.

For a bit of background, I'm 71, my hearing is far from optimal and I have quite severe tinnitus. So to me it might not make a difference whatever I chose.

I thoroughly enjoy my music and still hear some sparkle from my Fostex fe103en towers. They're TQWT's I built many years ago, and I'm sort of used to them.

The idea of the FH in any iteration has been a fascination for years, so I'm seriously thinking of giving them a go.

Many thanks for your views Dave.

Cheers, Martin
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
… or disguise the silver dustcap I might consider it ...

It might be possible to paint a thin coat of acrylic train paint on it. It will likely be a bit streaky. Carefully clean with 99% isopropyl first (i’d use a Q-tip).

You might loose a bit of top but that doesn’t sound like that will hurt in your case. On my drivers i put a specific set of spots and then a coat of clear gloss acrylic. You can see the dot pattern i use in the top frame of these “red” FF165wKeN. These are the spots where the tap test says there should be an EnABL pattern.

FF165wKeN-Burgbdy-wWhite.jpg


Now you are likey not to by a driver just so that you can see if acrylic works. I might try that for you.

dave
 
With regard to using the Fostex FF165WK in the FHXL, I'm a huge fan of Fostex and used them several times. However, as good as Fostex are, nothing screams 'cheap' like a silver dustcap, and I can't see the thinking behind equipping a quality driver with such a thing. Maybe some sonic benefit?

Yes. It's a given alloy formed into a specific profile direct-coupled to the voice coil (i.e. it's a tweeter). The alloy type for such uses is specific; anodising or similar can change behaviour, so altering the colour to something unspecified may not be practical, as well as increasing costs (& thereby the retail price).

You could try a magic marker. My friend Colin managed this with a set of Monacor cone tweeters; the results were OK-ish, although I can't say it bothered me.
 
You could try a magic marker. My friend Colin managed this with a set of Monacor cone tweeters; the results were OK-ish, although I can't say it bothered me.

Thanks Scottmoose, and Dave for your comments.

Looking at the feedback re the FF165WK, there seems to be plenty of positives about using this driver. I'll think on it, no firm ideas yet...

Cheers, Martin
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.