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paper cone open frame driver for front horn
paper cone open frame driver for front horn
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Old 23rd March 2018, 02:42 AM   #21
hollowboy is offline hollowboy  Australia
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No better ideas, so I'm taking a punt on a couple of the Peerless units, the NE65 (2" alu) and NE123 (4" paper).

The 2" is essentially a big tweeter. Based on specs (and 3rd party tests of other drivers in the range), it looks great, the major caveat being low max SPL. As a direct radiator, it would be excursion limited to 95dB @ 300Hz.

This will be a new thing for me - I've usually compromised in the other direction, accepting worse HF response in favour of efficiency & output.

The 4" appears to be a better version of what I'm used to - it has a more open frame, better motor structure, MUCH smaller (neo) magnet, more Xmax, and the break up modes seem to be higher up.

The attached comparison makes my current favourites look quite primitive.

Will post findings / impressions in a month or so.
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File Type: jpg Frames compared.jpg (40.9 KB, 245 views)
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Old 23rd March 2018, 03:47 AM   #22
oohms is offline oohms  Australia
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I have had luck using a TG9FD and many people swear by the SB65WBAC in large horns. I wouldn't worry too much about the frame as you will want to seal the rear of the driver if you are horn loading anyway.

With the TG9, after CD equalisation, the higher frequencies were as loud coming out the back as the front and didn't add anything nice to the overall sound, then after making rear chambers for them, the sound significantly improved

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Old 23rd March 2018, 04:49 AM   #23
hollowboy is offline hollowboy  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oohms View Post
I have had luck using a TG9FD and many people swear by the SB65WBAC in large horns.
And Frangus (another Aussie who was on this forum) was happily using an even less efficient 2" on a very similar horn

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I wouldn't worry too much about the frame as you will want to seal the rear of the driver if you are horn loading anyway.
'Choking' the back of the driver with a bad cutout does bad things to frequency response:
chamfering driver holes

If opening the back of the driver up by chamfering the mounting hole is a good thing, I assume that opening it up further by using a streamlined frame & neo magnet would be more of a good thing.

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Originally Posted by oohms View Post
With the TG9, after CD equalisation, the higher frequencies were as loud coming out the back as the front and didn't add anything nice to the overall sound, then after making rear chambers for them, the sound significantly improved
Not an open baffle fan?

I was thinking of trying an aperiodic (leaky box) or stuffed open line behind the driver, which would let the rear wave leak out, somewhat attenuated - but I'll keep your input in mind, and give sealed a go.

Nice, clean-looking build, by the way.
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Old 23rd March 2018, 06:24 AM   #24
oohms is offline oohms  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hollowboy View Post
'Choking' the back of the driver with a bad cutout does bad things to frequency response:
chamfering driver holes

If opening the back of the driver up by chamfering the mounting hole is a good thing, I assume that opening it up further by using a streamlined frame & neo magnet would be more of a good thing.
If you are building the horn you can design it so you screw the driver straight onto the horn mounting plate and you have no chamfering to worry about, then attach an enclosure to that (If you want to )

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Originally Posted by hollowboy View Post
Not an open baffle fan?
I don't mind them, I just found that when you reduce dispersion of a speaker by putting it in a horn, the rear sound is very out of place

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Nice, clean-looking build, by the way.
Thanks
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Old 9th April 2018, 10:58 PM   #25
hollowboy is offline hollowboy  Australia
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Post 52 here puts it nicely.
Innerchoic cabinets - should I?

Pertinent to this thread is his earlier comment (post 48)
"You should see the clicks reflecting off different things inside the box on the scope [...]
The biggest one for mine was the woofer magnet"
...which seems to confirm my suspicion that reducing reflections from the magnet is worthwhile; more important than going nuts with cabinet treatment.

Currently, am still waiting for the delivery from Parts Express. Digikey are much faster and also a bit cheaper, but they don't stock the NE123 I want to try.
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Old 10th April 2018, 03:55 AM   #26
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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paper cone open frame driver for front horn
Interesting discussion in that thread. I always try to put 12-18mm natural wool felt on the magnet of drivers. I'm glad to see more evidence that I'm not crazy
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Old 10th April 2018, 04:11 AM   #27
nigelwright7557 is offline nigelwright7557  United Kingdom
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Take a look at Fane 12-250TC full ranger.
I have a couple in a sealed box and they sound good.
Fane : Fane Sovereign 12-250TC :: PS67.30 IN STOCK (10 Apr 2018)
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Old 10th April 2018, 11:52 PM   #28
hollowboy is offline hollowboy  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nigelwright7557 View Post
Take a look at Fane 12-250TC full ranger.
I have a couple in a sealed box and they sound good.
I admire your enthusiasm for Fane drivers, but what I said in post 1 still stands: I'm after a small-ish driver for horn loading, specifically something with a sleek (low reflection) motor & frame.

My new neo magnet drivers, which hopefully are a step in this direction, are now in country (Yay!), but the courier service they used (Fastway) is substantially worse/more awkward than the generic Australia Post, so I'm not sure when I'll actually get my hands on them
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Old 11th April 2018, 12:00 AM   #29
hollowboy is offline hollowboy  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcgab View Post
Interesting discussion in that thread. I always try to put 12-18mm natural wool felt on the magnet of drivers. I'm glad to see more evidence that I'm not crazy
It makes sense to me that felt would scatter (mostly) and reduce (slightly) the reflection, so this should give better sound then a single big reflection.

When I try small driver tweaks like this, the result seems pretty subtle. I see improvements in the impulse plot more than in the FR plot, but I don't know enough to really interpret what this means ...I keep seeing comments from official clever people saying that time-based plots and FR plots can be generated / inferred from each other, and but that info hasn't really sunk in properly with me. I need a dummies guide
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Old 12th April 2018, 12:00 AM   #30
DonVK is offline DonVK  Canada
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@hollowboy can you post some pics of how you constructed these horns? Which flare shape did you use?
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