If you change the driver, the entire high pass will need to change.
The W8-1808 is a good driver if a bit overpriced IMO. It lacks a bit of detail (DDR), but has a pretty flat-response.
The FE206 is not all that flat. I don't know if i could live with them stock. at a minimum they need phase plugs.
Personally i'd be looking at a smaller driver. About the same sensitivity ia the Mark Audio Alpair 10p. The slightly less sensitive metal version could also be used, but would likely need the low pass changed as well.
dave
The W8-1808 is a good driver if a bit overpriced IMO. It lacks a bit of detail (DDR), but has a pretty flat-response.
The FE206 is not all that flat. I don't know if i could live with them stock. at a minimum they need phase plugs.
Personally i'd be looking at a smaller driver. About the same sensitivity ia the Mark Audio Alpair 10p. The slightly less sensitive metal version could also be used, but would likely need the low pass changed as well.
dave
Those seem to have very good reviews and they have a fairly flat response & a good price. Price on the W8-1808's is exactly what got me questioning things. It looks like I will need to cross these at about 150Hz? with a 10db sensitivity difference I'm guessing there will be too much bass, is that as simple as adding a resistor in series with the woofers.
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Hello I bought these speakers beag hx 403 alternative for the alpha's.. are they any good.. from the specs?
Hi Dave
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Have you actually compared those 2 drivers? I have built OB based on Pureaudioproject using even the same xover and being honest its not what i was expecting.
Still will try to find better aproach and will try to go active again as original passive xover is set to high for alphas (450hz), they sounds to muddy, i even tried to leave alpha as they are but let fullrange go full - a bit better but still not ideal. Think pureaudioproject designing that xover went with more "eco financial" solution....
Regarding TB w8 1808 its nice driver but IMO to shouty - it screams in upper midrange and is very very directional.- I personaly dont like its whizzer... I am thinking about finding better one and probably will go 3 way with ribbon at the top.... now wondering if ideal could be placing something like this as a dedicated midrange (200hz-5k) : Hybrid Audio Legatia L6SE one of the world best midbas car audio driver....
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Hi,
we use the W8-1772 because we think it sounds more fresh...
The XO is our design and reason for crossing at 400 Hz is the baffle.
Check the Frequency response and you see...
The new W8-2145 might be also a solution instead of the 1808. Sounds very much the same...
Smaller driver: We have good experience with W5-2106...
Cheers,
Nick
we use the W8-1772 because we think it sounds more fresh...
The XO is our design and reason for crossing at 400 Hz is the baffle.
Check the Frequency response and you see...
The new W8-2145 might be also a solution instead of the 1808. Sounds very much the same...
Smaller driver: We have good experience with W5-2106...
Cheers,
Nick
Of course a Fostex FE206 could be used, but it wouldn't be plug and play. I don't know what the stock crossover looks like but it would need modification as the FE206 has more sharply rising response as well as a different specs.
Sorry if my first post was a bit snappy. There are far too many posts about people that have put a fostex horn driver on an open baffle, and then complain it sounds harsh. Many things can be done, as long as you understand what you are doing.
Those new TB look interesting. Any source in N america yet? I don't mind ferrite magnets, and would rather save the $ in most cases.
Sorry if my first post was a bit snappy. There are far too many posts about people that have put a fostex horn driver on an open baffle, and then complain it sounds harsh. Many things can be done, as long as you understand what you are doing.
Those new TB look interesting. Any source in N america yet? I don't mind ferrite magnets, and would rather save the $ in most cases.
hi Nick - that is an interesting Tangband
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Well its just my opinion that 400 is way to high for alphas....
Havent tried 1772 so can not comment on that, but wondering how would you rate the new w8-2145 comparing to w8 1808 as its 4x checheaper... Is this 1808 really that special? My baffle is simple 2 alphas at bottom and tb at top
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Have them up and running for two weeks now. And these Tang Bands are worth every penny imo... Yes, they do have 'character' and thats why you love or hate them. I think Norman is right. Guess I like the 5db up.
I run them active with a special designed active filter that has dipole correction build in for the woofers and the FR driver. This filter also makes it possible to use smaller baffles. The Tang Bands are driven by a 8 wpc Elekit tube amp and the EA's by a 220 wpc solid state amp. XO at 150, 24db/octave
I just can't stop listening...
A friend of mine bought the original passive PAP version. He uses Pass monoblocks, but tbh I think that the chosen XO frequency is too high. You hear that in the mid bass and the voices. It really is a big difference! The EA's just don't do mid bass and voices very well. At least not as good as the TB's... And hey, I'm a DIY-er, so I could not resist building my own from scratch.
I run them active with a special designed active filter that has dipole correction build in for the woofers and the FR driver. This filter also makes it possible to use smaller baffles. The Tang Bands are driven by a 8 wpc Elekit tube amp and the EA's by a 220 wpc solid state amp. XO at 150, 24db/octave
I just can't stop listening...
A friend of mine bought the original passive PAP version. He uses Pass monoblocks, but tbh I think that the chosen XO frequency is too high. You hear that in the mid bass and the voices. It really is a big difference! The EA's just don't do mid bass and voices very well. At least not as good as the TB's... And hey, I'm a DIY-er, so I could not resist building my own from scratch.
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