Do you guys have a list of Dayton audio drivers that would work for this box type? I’d like to go as large as possible, say up to a 15” is possible, I also have 3 different type of 8” drivers made buy goldwood that I could use. One pair have dual coils and these are new in box
Thanks guys and I really have enjoyed reading these post, so keep them coming
Thanks guys and I really have enjoyed reading these post, so keep them coming
Plans for XKi with W5-2143
I have received numerous requests for the plans for this speaker and I think it is out there in various versions. However, I never really had a plan that was more than the written description of the internal box dimensions and vent size. Here is a sketch of the one that I have as-built. There is a sketchup file somewhere by my cabinet maker, but I think no "2D Plans" anywhere. If someone has 2D CAD plans already, please post here or show us the link,
Here is my hand sketched plan that contains evertthing you need to build it. Dimensions are in inches and point to important inside dimensions. The assumption here is that it can be made of anything from 3/16in foam core to 3/4in BB ply - just maintain the internal dimensions. I think 1/2in BB ply is a good one to use for this size box. The notes on the lining with foam/felt pads and lining the rear of aperture with foamcore and felt are important to follow unless you are making a foamcore box, in which case just add some melamine pads where inidcated. A BSC is probably a good idea - and a basic one is provided. The aperture can be hand drawn/cut based on dimensions shown (about 2in from top is a 1/4in notch slowly cunrving downwards to a 1/4in to 1/2in wide flat at the bottom of the aperture.
It is a great sounding speaker - with bass extension and punch well beyond its size would indicate. And being 90dB sensitive, can get quite loud with just a few watts of power.
PDF version also attached below.
I hope this is useful and more folks make this excellent sounding speaker.
I have received numerous requests for the plans for this speaker and I think it is out there in various versions. However, I never really had a plan that was more than the written description of the internal box dimensions and vent size. Here is a sketch of the one that I have as-built. There is a sketchup file somewhere by my cabinet maker, but I think no "2D Plans" anywhere. If someone has 2D CAD plans already, please post here or show us the link,
Here is my hand sketched plan that contains evertthing you need to build it. Dimensions are in inches and point to important inside dimensions. The assumption here is that it can be made of anything from 3/16in foam core to 3/4in BB ply - just maintain the internal dimensions. I think 1/2in BB ply is a good one to use for this size box. The notes on the lining with foam/felt pads and lining the rear of aperture with foamcore and felt are important to follow unless you are making a foamcore box, in which case just add some melamine pads where inidcated. A BSC is probably a good idea - and a basic one is provided. The aperture can be hand drawn/cut based on dimensions shown (about 2in from top is a 1/4in notch slowly cunrving downwards to a 1/4in to 1/2in wide flat at the bottom of the aperture.
It is a great sounding speaker - with bass extension and punch well beyond its size would indicate. And being 90dB sensitive, can get quite loud with just a few watts of power.
PDF version also attached below.
I hope this is useful and more folks make this excellent sounding speaker.
Attachments
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I'll look at those GW specs later. For 15 inch the original Karlson is hard to beat - but then again I've not heard a Karlsonator 15 nor XRK971's XKi as a 15.
For K15, one wants moving mass 70g or less, Qt no more than 0.4 - relatively low voice coil inductance. 3mm of Xmax is plenty for home use. A decent "K18" could be packed in an 8 cubic foot box. For wide range use a rising on-axis response cane be helpful
A little offset driver Karlflex by TB46
https://i.imgur.com/t1AXwaC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/RO4m1Ws.jpg
Cetec-Gauss K18 bass guitar cabinet (Karlson had a K18 in one of his later brochures)
One early Cetec-Gauss ad showed a more open aperture than this one.
https://i.imgur.com/bdxOtqp.jpg
Karlson "K15" Daddy of them all - developed in the summer of 1951
when to market in 1952. Plan below from the January 1954 issue
of Radio and Television News
https://i.imgur.com/oRygnBt.png
Here's the Karlson Twelve from the July 1958 issue of Popular Mechanics
- it featured a distributed slit vent - if driven around fb with sine wave
that vent produces many harmonics. It is a good choice for music with acoustic instruments.
https://i.imgur.com/K4Vclxr.jpg
Here's the "Dutch K12" - a take on Karlson's second K12 - it has more inner vent area than Karlson's K12 but assume may tune similar as the outer aperture helps determine system tuning
The "Dutch" Karlson 12
Karlson's K12 can work pretty well with some 8 inch and some 10 inch drivers. I prefermy beat K12 with a PYM1298 (same as Kappa 12A) with slotted pipe tweeter to my Klipschorns on some material. There's a Rudy Rosa CD where a passage in a song drops to low sampled strings
- that K12 just GRABS the air better than my horns. I've not heard this Dutch take on K12 but know its been well received
The "Dutch" Karlson 12
Then there are GregB's Karlsonator12 and Karlsonator8 cabinets
Here's the Karlsonator8 plan
https://i.imgur.com/LOZOebs.png
Here's the Karlsonator12 plan
https://i.imgur.com/9YhM6or.png
Plus the little Acoustic Control 115BK cabinet which is excellent but more like K12 in low frequency cutoff.
IF 115BK is scaled 1.2X then its the same bulk as K15 and could be a "small K18"
Little K plus subwoofer could easily replace a horn system - provided there's enough power.
Here's a few ballpark XKi sims - 61 liters for my JBL M151 looks good
(and the 2035H should be good for >120dB. PRV's 10FR300 looks fun too)
https://i.imgur.com/F2gqRIX.jpg
For K15, one wants moving mass 70g or less, Qt no more than 0.4 - relatively low voice coil inductance. 3mm of Xmax is plenty for home use. A decent "K18" could be packed in an 8 cubic foot box. For wide range use a rising on-axis response cane be helpful
A little offset driver Karlflex by TB46
https://i.imgur.com/t1AXwaC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/RO4m1Ws.jpg
Cetec-Gauss K18 bass guitar cabinet (Karlson had a K18 in one of his later brochures)
One early Cetec-Gauss ad showed a more open aperture than this one.
https://i.imgur.com/bdxOtqp.jpg
Karlson "K15" Daddy of them all - developed in the summer of 1951
when to market in 1952. Plan below from the January 1954 issue
of Radio and Television News
https://i.imgur.com/oRygnBt.png
Here's the Karlson Twelve from the July 1958 issue of Popular Mechanics
- it featured a distributed slit vent - if driven around fb with sine wave
that vent produces many harmonics. It is a good choice for music with acoustic instruments.
https://i.imgur.com/K4Vclxr.jpg
Here's the "Dutch K12" - a take on Karlson's second K12 - it has more inner vent area than Karlson's K12 but assume may tune similar as the outer aperture helps determine system tuning
The "Dutch" Karlson 12
Karlson's K12 can work pretty well with some 8 inch and some 10 inch drivers. I prefermy beat K12 with a PYM1298 (same as Kappa 12A) with slotted pipe tweeter to my Klipschorns on some material. There's a Rudy Rosa CD where a passage in a song drops to low sampled strings
- that K12 just GRABS the air better than my horns. I've not heard this Dutch take on K12 but know its been well received
The "Dutch" Karlson 12
Then there are GregB's Karlsonator12 and Karlsonator8 cabinets
Here's the Karlsonator8 plan
https://i.imgur.com/LOZOebs.png
Here's the Karlsonator12 plan
https://i.imgur.com/9YhM6or.png
Plus the little Acoustic Control 115BK cabinet which is excellent but more like K12 in low frequency cutoff.
IF 115BK is scaled 1.2X then its the same bulk as K15 and could be a "small K18"
Little K plus subwoofer could easily replace a horn system - provided there's enough power.
Here's a few ballpark XKi sims - 61 liters for my JBL M151 looks good
(and the 2035H should be good for >120dB. PRV's 10FR300 looks fun too)
https://i.imgur.com/F2gqRIX.jpg
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hi carlhess40 - - two of those 8 inch GW speakers have qts near "1" - GW-408D is more workable at around 0.65. FWIW here's a design. Port area is like that for a 3" round duct, so for a 10 inch wide baffle, the rectangular port could be 10" wide by 0/75" high by about 9" long.
Thank you for your time and work. I’ll see what I can work out.
Hi XRK971 - here's your Delta10A XKi simed with 3 different drivers and two vent lengths (7 inches and 9 inches)
would you suggest the vent (~1.5" H X 12" W) to be made the full 9 inch length ? - or might its proximity to the aperture add a bit of length, thus shortening vent length a bit ?
also, what to you suggest for the aperture? The cabinet may be as short in height as 17"
another thing - I think in these calcs that vent displacement may not have been accounted for - if not - is that really of much concern? - it would be nice if the cabinet comes in at 13x13x17 inches.
would you suggest the vent (~1.5" H X 12" W) to be made the full 9 inch length ? - or might its proximity to the aperture add a bit of length, thus shortening vent length a bit ?
also, what to you suggest for the aperture? The cabinet may be as short in height as 17"
another thing - I think in these calcs that vent displacement may not have been accounted for - if not - is that really of much concern? - it would be nice if the cabinet comes in at 13x13x17 inches.
Hi Freddi,
I have noticed that the calculated vent often is too long. So err on the short side if given a choice. I don’t have a Delta 10A. Only Beta 8cx and Beta 12cx that you have me. Aperture rule of thumb is to make it wide enough to go tangent to the surrounds as it crosses over the driver.
I have noticed that the calculated vent often is too long. So err on the short side if given a choice. I don’t have a Delta 10A. Only Beta 8cx and Beta 12cx that you have me. Aperture rule of thumb is to make it wide enough to go tangent to the surrounds as it crosses over the driver.
Freddi, I don't have a Karlson going right now but this link has some bass that sounds good with my BIC subwoofer.
YouTube
And a home made bass that just cries for a Karlson box.
YouTube
I still haven't purchased speakers for my little 5" modified K boxes. I am afraid I will creep too far above 30W and blow them.
YouTube
And a home made bass that just cries for a Karlson box.
YouTube
I still haven't purchased speakers for my little 5" modified K boxes. I am afraid I will creep too far above 30W and blow them.
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XKi PA130 - would this work for W5-2143?
I'm looking at doing my first foam core build and would like something a bit simpler than the usual XKi 0.53x design because the one for the PA130 features primarily right angles. Freddi showed a rough sketch design of it in post 314. There's a curvy baffle example just above it too, in post 311.
Im just wondering whether it would likely work for W5-2143 which I already have?
Appreciate any comments anyone has.
I'm looking at doing my first foam core build and would like something a bit simpler than the usual XKi 0.53x design because the one for the PA130 features primarily right angles. Freddi showed a rough sketch design of it in post 314. There's a curvy baffle example just above it too, in post 311.
Im just wondering whether it would likely work for W5-2143 which I already have?
Appreciate any comments anyone has.
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Or failing that whether the 0.53x for the 2 TD9s might work? One of the designs is 16 inches tall which would be ideal size.
I don’t want something too small and am using 0.5 inch interlocking foam mats but not the interlocking bits obviously.
So something around 16 inches tall would be great. Don’t really want to do a two driver per enclosure design and would look at getting new drivers but would be nice to use the W5-2143s as I like their sonics.
I don’t want something too small and am using 0.5 inch interlocking foam mats but not the interlocking bits obviously.
So something around 16 inches tall would be great. Don’t really want to do a two driver per enclosure design and would look at getting new drivers but would be nice to use the W5-2143s as I like their sonics.
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Thx X.
I’m going to use the design in post 2012 on the Mini Karl (0.53x) with dual TC9FDs thread.
It is exactly the size I’m after and for precisely my driver.
One query. How do you make perfect circle baffle cutouts in foam?
Just find a jar or container the right size and cut around the edge or can I use a hole saw attached to a drill?
Cheers
Peter
I’m going to use the design in post 2012 on the Mini Karl (0.53x) with dual TC9FDs thread.
It is exactly the size I’m after and for precisely my driver.
One query. How do you make perfect circle baffle cutouts in foam?
Just find a jar or container the right size and cut around the edge or can I use a hole saw attached to a drill?
Cheers
Peter
This is the "foam board" Im using.
It is essentially foam matting, a half inch thick.
I've been cutting nice straight edges with it.
Started by using clamps but it compresses too much.
Easier with just a ruler and a paring knife.
I have tubes of Ados multipurpose contact adhesive which the guy in the
hardware store said should be okay. He suggested using wooden tooth picks to hold the foam in place while the glue is drying (to prevent movement).
Will consider using Gorilla glue for the final side in the hope that it fills any gaps.
Is this strategy likely to work okay X?
Cheers
Peter
It is essentially foam matting, a half inch thick.
I've been cutting nice straight edges with it.
Started by using clamps but it compresses too much.
Easier with just a ruler and a paring knife.
I have tubes of Ados multipurpose contact adhesive which the guy in the
hardware store said should be okay. He suggested using wooden tooth picks to hold the foam in place while the glue is drying (to prevent movement).
Will consider using Gorilla glue for the final side in the hope that it fills any gaps.
Is this strategy likely to work okay X?
Cheers
Peter
Attachments
You have EVA foam board and that works fine. It’s more flexible so may need more bracing. There is thread on EVA foam enclosures.
EVA foam for performance speaker enclosures
To cut a round hole, find a suitable template like a jar or lid etc. I find that a standard packaging tape paper tube core is same size as TC9FD cutout. About 3in.
EVA foam for performance speaker enclosures
To cut a round hole, find a suitable template like a jar or lid etc. I find that a standard packaging tape paper tube core is same size as TC9FD cutout. About 3in.
