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Woden Design 3" Box Designs, BabyLabs & more
Woden Design 3" Box Designs, BabyLabs & more
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Old 2nd April 2019, 12:12 PM   #281
ssportclay is offline ssportclay  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
Baby Lab series was as far as I know conceived as series for nominal 3" FR drivers, so I don't think so?
Storm Shadow Pluvia 7-Skyflash CHN-70-Falcon FF105wk: I believe these are all bigger than 3" drivers. I don't believe Scott ever released a Baby Lab for the A7.3 though it may exist in his notes or head somewhere.
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Old 2nd April 2019, 03:54 PM   #282
chrisb is offline chrisb
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It certainly is hard to keep track of them all, even the ones I’ve built. I wonder if a non-compromised manifold design for the A7.3 might make it larger than say a MarKen, which I have built, definitely sound great.
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Old 3rd April 2019, 07:42 PM   #283
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Woden Design 3" Box Designs, BabyLabs & more
Quote:
but was there ever a Baby Lab for the A5.2
I have the pair you built downstairs, but they have never been populated.

dave
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Old 3rd April 2019, 07:44 PM   #284
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Woden Design 3" Box Designs, BabyLabs & more
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And was there ever a version for the A7.3?
In the Big Baby Lab series… something that has not gone far yet, and will be a paid planset.

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Old 5th May 2019, 03:52 AM   #285
JoeWislon is offline JoeWislon  United States
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I stumbled onto the baby lab designs while looking for something interesting to do with the Peerless TC9FD18-08 3-1/2". I've got 4 of these guys and I don't know what to do with them, but the baby lab designs look fun to build.

I'm not sure if the TC9FD would work out in any of these designs. I was looking through them and it looks like the Stinger / Alpair 6.2 design might be best suited given both are 3.5" full range drivers. But I'm not sure if the TC9FD is too different to really work.

Is this a dumb idea? Has there been a baby lab design for the TC9FD specifically? Any input is appreciated.
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Old 19th May 2019, 10:48 AM   #286
tamra is offline tamra  Japan
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Woden Design 3" Box Designs, BabyLabs & more
I have ordered Japanese wild cherry for the Lance.
This is my first experience to use solid wood.
I am thinking to varnish or shellac wood completely would work.
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Old 19th May 2019, 12:55 PM   #287
stormfrontier is offline stormfrontier  United States
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Tamra, you can also use linseed or Tung oil for great results. I use wax and polish them after the application of oil.
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Old 19th May 2019, 01:45 PM   #288
tamra is offline tamra  Japan
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Thanks stormfrontier.
Oil and wax looks nice.
But I afraid that solid wood warps for dry and humid air condition.
So I am thinking to seal them.
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Old 19th May 2019, 02:49 PM   #289
CraigSu is offline CraigSu  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamra View Post
Thanks stormfrontier.
Oil and wax looks nice.
But I afraid that solid wood warps for dry and humid air condition.
So I am thinking to seal them.
Make sure you seal both sides of the boards to avoid warping. If you do it before assembly make sure you tape off any edges that will be glued prior to applying finish. If possible, wait until the cabinet is almost together and then apply finish. Either way, you don’t want finish interfering with an edge that will be glued; otherwise the glue joint will be weak.
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Old 19th May 2019, 04:15 PM   #290
JoeWislon is offline JoeWislon  United States
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Originally Posted by tamra View Post
Thanks stormfrontier.
Oil and wax looks nice.
But I afraid that solid wood warps for dry and humid air condition.
So I am thinking to seal them.
Wipe on polyurethane is a pretty good varnish and what I generally use. You can wipe it on with a rag, it goes on thin so it shouldn't leave brush marks like standard polyurethane or other non-wiping varnishes. Wiping varnishes have been thinned to make them easier to work with, which means you will need to apply many coats. About 3 coats of wipe on is equivalent to 1 coat of standard. Usually you can apply 3 coats of wide on poly in about a day though, and 3-6 coats should be enough for something like a speaker (you pay want 9-18 coats for a high use piece of furniture like a kitchen table). Be sure to get a good mask (with a gas vapor filter) to wear when applying poly/varnish, and do it in a well ventilated area of course.

With poly or most other varnishes, they cure hard so you can build up a film. This protects and seals the wood much better than oil finishes.

Linseed/tung oil based finishes are easier and more pleasant work with, but they cure soft so they do little to protect the wood and let more moisture in. Limseed/tung oil are poor finishes on their own, so most products that claim to be some sort of oil finish (like Watco Danish Oil), are a mix of tung/linseed oil, varnish, and chemicals to make it dry faster.

As mentioned, be sure to finish the inside of the cabinet as well, this will prevent moisture transfer from happening at different rates, which tends to warp wood. It's a good idea to do all the cutting, gluing, and sanding before applying any finish. Make sure that if there is excess glue, that it is scraped off and sanded down to the point where it no longer makes a stain on the wood's surface, even a small amount of glue stain left on the surface will show up when you put the finish on.
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