One problem was the end of blade bending to one side during long cuts, making diagonal cut instead of square, tried a lot of suggestions to avoid it without luck but never tried the straight edge.
With no good ply available, it's between MDF and the softwood planks, I think that most guys here would choose the planks, at least if sound was the only concern.
The angled cuts I mean are on ends of the baffle, back and top pieces, or if you knew that could you explain using the compass?
Interested to see how you get on with the build.
With no good ply available, it's between MDF and the softwood planks, I think that most guys here would choose the planks, at least if sound was the only concern.
The angled cuts I mean are on ends of the baffle, back and top pieces, or if you knew that could you explain using the compass?
Interested to see how you get on with the build.
Well i'd use both mdf and planks if they were available. i find the composite build to be worthwhile, although the steel i used in my cabinet seems to be headache inducing after prolonged usage, not going to do that again.
I wouldn't worry about the angled cuts, i'd cut them at 90 degrees and either fill the cracks with silicone or file them smooth with the anglegrinder. The don't need to mate perfectly, merely be airtight.
I made an improvised compass for the workshop ages ago out of flat steel strap. i sharpened the ends to a point and put a bolt with washers at the join, like an oversized version of something you used in school for maths, or technical graphics. my version was barely 2 feet at its fullest extent, but for the frugelhorn it would need to stretch to the cabinets longest dimension, 70 inches for the rear horn curve, according to the fhmk3.
I haven't thought about how i would use it exactly but it would be similar to how i used it in my school days to draw a triangle, draw a straight line the length of one side, merely set the width of the compass to one side of the triangle and scribe an arc from the end of the line, then repeat from the other end and where both arcs cross that is the third point of the triangle.
compasses are useful because you don't need a right angle or tee square to take a reference from. many of the shapes are located in the middle of the plywood sheets so there will be no convenient straight edge to measure from.
edit, i already own the bg20, i wanted to use them to save money, not spend €715.95 + taxes on a pair of maop11
I wouldn't worry about the angled cuts, i'd cut them at 90 degrees and either fill the cracks with silicone or file them smooth with the anglegrinder. The don't need to mate perfectly, merely be airtight.
I made an improvised compass for the workshop ages ago out of flat steel strap. i sharpened the ends to a point and put a bolt with washers at the join, like an oversized version of something you used in school for maths, or technical graphics. my version was barely 2 feet at its fullest extent, but for the frugelhorn it would need to stretch to the cabinets longest dimension, 70 inches for the rear horn curve, according to the fhmk3.
I haven't thought about how i would use it exactly but it would be similar to how i used it in my school days to draw a triangle, draw a straight line the length of one side, merely set the width of the compass to one side of the triangle and scribe an arc from the end of the line, then repeat from the other end and where both arcs cross that is the third point of the triangle.
compasses are useful because you don't need a right angle or tee square to take a reference from. many of the shapes are located in the middle of the plywood sheets so there will be no convenient straight edge to measure from.
edit, i already own the bg20, i wanted to use them to save money, not spend €715.95 + taxes on a pair of maop11
Last edited:
gipetto, it’s possible to get excellent sonics in an FHXL for a fraction of the cost of the MAOPs within the Mark Audio line. Several years ago I built “dueling” pairs fitted with FF165WK and A10, and preferred the overall balance of the Alpairs. Current candidates should include, I think, A10P, A10.3, CHN110, Pluvia 11, et cetera.
Hi Scottmoose,
Have you had a chance to look at the W5-2143 to see if it is suitable for FHXL? I was going to recommend this speaker plan to a friend who is looking to build a BLH. I advised him to stay away from the big “box” Fostex plans. Huge and heavy, mediocre sound from what I have heard. Whereas unanimously good reports from FHXL. Also seems to use a whole lot less wood.
Thanks,
X
I really should have checked that unit before.
Good to know, I've had half an eye on that series for a while. If TB have got the QA / QC consistency right, they look like nice options to me. 
Out of interest, did you take any data on them -if so, how did it line up to the published (accepting some variation through different drive levels)?
Out of interest, did you take any data on them -if so, how did it line up to the published (accepting some variation through different drive levels)?
The T/S parameters are very close to published. The usual QTs is always a bit higher than published but that happens to almost every brand except Dayton. They never exaggerate their QTs. Frequency response matches published. Smooth and flat. Reach is surprisingly high. It’s an overlooked driver that deserves more attention.
Good to know, many thanks.
I suspect Dayton's T/S data (I've found roughly the same) shows good consistency to most home measures because they publish with specs. taken with DATS and Omnimic, which at least ensures that it's similar to the gear a majority of DIYers have access to. Contrast to a majority that tend to publish data with higher voltage drives, which almost guarantees a significant deviation due to the altered techniques / conditions.
I suspect Dayton's T/S data (I've found roughly the same) shows good consistency to most home measures because they publish with specs. taken with DATS and Omnimic, which at least ensures that it's similar to the gear a majority of DIYers have access to. Contrast to a majority that tend to publish data with higher voltage drives, which almost guarantees a significant deviation due to the altered techniques / conditions.
Re the TB W5-2143, based on the factory data it'll work fine; double checked & spec. is well within the intended loading range so should be a good combination.
Hi Scott, just interested: the plans for the FH MK3 say that most 4-5in drivers would work well, so would the W5-2143 work in the MK3? Or do you not recommend this?