My 11ms are still waiting for me to get to where i can finish processing them. The FHXLis versatile enuff that A11ms will work fine it — the very similar spec P11 work fine in them.
My room is large and Bernie’s 2A3 SE was a joy to listen to even on the 84 dB EL70 as long as we did not push it to levels typically louder than my regular listening levels.
A10p has been consitenty measured at about 90dB. A12p about a dB more.
A12p thing? AFAIC the A10p is generally preferable. A12p only brings about a dB and more cone area to the party. Everywhere else i prefer the a10p.
dave
These are easily achieveable with a bit of manual work laying out and cutting. I have just finished coating the outside of mine with epoxy as a sealer, which will be sanded back and primed for painting. There is a bit of fiddly measuring to get the angles right, but overall not a difficult build for someone with some woodworking skills. I used only a table saw and jigsaw along with router, and used relatively cheap 18mm C-C finish ply as mine will be painted. I did make sure there would be minimal voids in the ply though. I didn't bother cutting a slot to locate the baffle, just carefully set in place with epoxy and used my square to make sure everything was right.
Having said that, if you can get a flat pack they are awesome to build quickly and accurately. Bevelled edges etc as opposed to my square joins.
My Alpair 10p's arrived (Thanks D'Archer) and thankfully they fitted my pre-routed holes.
Now sanding and painting and sanding and painting for weeks, but after building a boat, I am used to that.
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My pair of A12p drivers sounded mismatched, one "live or hot" the other "flat or neutral", was thinking a break in issue but lost interest when it didn't resolve itself by 300 hours. I also thought it could be from the uneven excess overflow of glue between the voice coil and driver but that theory is neither here nor there.
It is possible I was much too ginger with the break-in and should give them some more time at higher listening levels/greater cone excursion, re-visit the drivers see if I can get them to sound right...
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My room is 11'x9'....I have a pair of Markaudio Alpair 10p drivers. I was reading a lot and thought i will build a Pensil cabinet for them. But now after reading and knowing things about FHXL, I feel pretty intrigued. I want to know if FHXL will be alright for the size of my room and a practical comparison of sound signature between Pensil cabinet and FHXL. I will be using no suwoofer..so a little discussion about bass response of the two cabinets will be helpful.
Thanks in advance....
Thanks in advance....
If you are building the FHXL crime scratch it would be simple and inexpensive to knock together a set of the pencils and compare them with the same drivers. If you don’t have the tools or skills to cut the parts for the FHXL then building pencils really isn’t an option for you.
I’ll echo Bob’s comment on the Pensils being a much simpler build than the FHXL, and as mentioned in the other thread, I’d opine that the former would make a far more practical enclosure for a room of less than 100sq ft. Indeed, were it at an earlier point in the planning, I’d have suggested that the smaller 7cm series drivers A7.3, Pluvia7, or the new A7MS would more than suffice.
I had someone ask me if there were plans for a larger version of the FH3. I believe they were thinking of a driver larger than the 10P. Is this feasible, would it be difficult to scale up the cabinet for a larger driver? Is there a practical limit to how large this design could be made? Assuming sufficiently sized cabinet material. I think I can get my hands on 10' or 12' long plywood. 
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Dave, wrote to you yesterday from the address maxim.tsyganok@gmail.com. Thanks in advance!)