Not true. You will have more gain in the range the horn operates ~<250 Hz, but unless you knock back the higher frequencies (ie BSC).
dave
Expanding briefly on what Dave said, a back-loaded horn is no different in this regard to any other form of back-loaded alignment. It only operates over a relatively narrow bandwidth -wider than other back-loads, but still only up to the mass-corner of the drive unit. The overall sensitivity of the speaker system is thus still determined by that of the drive unit.
to the areas immediately above and to approx 10" or so below the driver, yes - but it still wouldn't hurt to apply a light mesh of some type approx 1/2 way down the expanding front fold to prevent fibre from slipping out of place - for that matter a couple of strips of velcro barbs on any of the interior walls would help to grip.
Dave/ Scott: as I understand (but might be mistaken) if we want the region up to ~ 250 (or whatever) to stay in the same SPL level as the rest in most boxes you'll need to tone down the output above that. (thinking about the LS3/5A etc).
Scott: What are your "gut feelings" on the FE167e in here? By nature I like a box that is tolerant of different drivers and I like the simplicity of the construction. Unfortunately a Fonken is driver specific and harder to construct especially if one does not have access to a decent sized table saw (which is why I am interested in the XL FH).
Dave also has a simpler version of his Mini-Onken cabs under his CGR (Classic Golden Ratio) series. But I am not sure if there exists a CGR version of for the Fostex FE167E.
And it would be interesting to know how the FH-XL works with a different driver.
Thanks Dave, that is was my suspicion is too. Never saw a GR version for the FE164/FE167e, suspect it does not exist.
I prefer to have enclosures toe'd in and crossing in front of me. When I look at the drawing then I get the impression that at approx 10 feet they'll (might) be pointing above my head. (sitting in a recliner and head at approx 4 feet height) .
By tilting the baffle less and all other sizes are proportionally "slid in the horizontal plane" is then the performance the same? (there was some design with two FH 3 on top of each other so have the impression that it should be fine). Are these OK in a corner?
I prefer to have enclosures toe'd in and crossing in front of me. When I look at the drawing then I get the impression that at approx 10 feet they'll (might) be pointing above my head. (sitting in a recliner and head at approx 4 feet height) .
By tilting the baffle less and all other sizes are proportionally "slid in the horizontal plane" is then the performance the same? (there was some design with two FH 3 on top of each other so have the impression that it should be fine). Are these OK in a corner?
The 167 should go in acceptably. I don't have time to do detailed checks at present (not at best today -my father has just had a heart-attack & carted into hospital. Currently waiting for news from my mother on his progress & here for a bit of a distraction); LF output may be slightly reduced, but it should work.
Last edited:
Some FE167e should arrive at my door in the near future, my name is on three of them. I do not like the new series with the foam surrounds.
Last year I had a pair of National Panasonic drivers that date back to 1970 with a linen surround and they were still fine. Had some drivers with alloy composite cones and rubber surrounds from 1996. The rubber had hardened and had small cracks in them and could not be fixed, nor were replacements available so those expensive enclosures were a write-off. Similarly foam surrounds have a bad track record.
I have some FF125WK metronomes and acquired three FE127e drivers a few months ago, unfortunately they are not a drop-in replacement so I have to built new enclosures.
This is why I like the previous models and why I like enclosures that can take different drivers - if some mishap happens to them and they're no longer available then hopefully something can be found to replace them.
(I had planned the Fonken167 but would prefer the eXtra Large Frugal Horn provided I can find a spot in the living area to place them.)
Last edited:
I leave it to Scott to do the sim. A12p needs similar box size -- at least in a BR -- to A10p and does not go quite as low so it is possible A12p would work .
One would need to make the baffle full width or add a supraBaffle to be able to actually fit the driver, and the side walls would be close enuff for the issue of side wall reflections to degrade the performance.
The only advantage the A12p has over A10p is a tiny bit of greater sensitivity, and greater dynamic capability, as well as bragging rights for the largest driver, so if you don't aleady have A12p i'd personally recommend A10p which does everything else a bit better.
dave
One would need to make the baffle full width or add a supraBaffle to be able to actually fit the driver, and the side walls would be close enuff for the issue of side wall reflections to degrade the performance.
The only advantage the A12p has over A10p is a tiny bit of greater sensitivity, and greater dynamic capability, as well as bragging rights for the largest driver, so if you don't aleady have A12p i'd personally recommend A10p which does everything else a bit better.
dave
