Frugel-Horn XL for Alpair 10.3/10p, Fostex FF165wk, more

You`re not alone Dave...

I have my share of BrainFade(age is to no good help either).

But to you`r very nice enclosure - The FHXL - I can tell you: I haven`t listened to Rickie Lee Jones - Pirates since I sold my Infinity Delta. So very weak recording and nearly no bass on Alp10.2 in Fonken or Alp12P!

But today - on the FHXL - there it was - We Belong Together - from R.L.Jones - with full slam and all the groove that her earlier recordings is full off.:)

Thanks Dave and Scott and Chrisb - and Mark! For giving new life to old favorites.

Best

Olav
 
Our first 2 pairs of prototypes were in fact fully done by hand, including the rebates for drivers, made with templates salvaged from error on previous A10 project - and all butt joints, brad nailed and screwed, then bondo'd up for veneering.

Take the time to cut and sand an MDF pattern for the curved sides, then rough cut blanks for side panels and finish with router/ flush trim bit.

Even when not using dados for the back and internal fold panel, I found that using a scarf joint and small triangular block near the apex of the fold provides substantial additional glue surface area where you most definitely need an airtight seal.

Of course, if you have access to CNC router, there's no reason to get old school "hair shirt" about it.
 
I'm not out to make money or anything on this, but thought I would mention I have a 5'x10' Pacer CNC router at work so if anyone UK based wants panels cutting then drop me a pm. We get birch ply at a good price too. I'd have to ask the boss about price to cut but I can't imagine it would be a lot.
 
Karl - that kinda strikes me as consonant with the whole DIY co-op spirit upon which the FrugelHorn project was based all those eons ago :) , but Dave & Scott might speak to the matter as to what exactly would constitute a commercial venture requiring a one time acquisition of MJK worksheet license?
 
It would be reasonable that whoever came to me should be able to prove they had made the donation for the plans. I guess I would have to prove I wasn't making any more than that, for my own gain?

I see your point though. I mentioned it because I have a huge amount of experience in cutting plywood both by hand and with offhand equipment and I know that it is a splintery horrible material and a right ball ache to do properly. Having the CNC makes it childs play and I would like to help people make something as making 'stuff' is what I'm passionate about.
 
Is there a champher at the rear of the driver on the front baffle to let the driver breath easily?

Always.

and has a MDF box been made and any difference to sound?

I do hope not. MDF is not at all well suited to a cabinet of this size; structural stiffness is important & something MDF is significantly short of compared to a quality ply.
 
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..... I'm currently assessing a range of other drive units, although initially we've wanted to confirm we're happy with it with the baseline drivers.

I'm about to take possesion of a pair of FE167e drivers. Going by the wide variety of drivers going into the FH3 I suppose the FE167e will work in the XL version.

The questions I have are: a) how well are these FHXL matched to the FE167e and b) in what regards (soundwise) would they differ from the Fonken167 taking into account that my wife has hearing issues and has trouble listening to anything with too much reverb e.g. a plain bass reflex. (She preferred the Monitor Audio Studio 12 which is a closed box over the Monitor Audio Studio 20 (BR) and the small Monitor Audio Studio 2 (BR) back in 1996. The MA 20 was a reference speaker at the time for one of the magazines.)
 
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Thanks for the feedback gents. :grouphug:

The reports of tighter bass in the Fonken had me putting at top of the list - especially since I use a lightly damped tube amplifier. However a proper tuned horn should finish up with higher overall efficiency. I've got only approx 3 Watt available from an ultra linear single ended 6BQ5 (EL84) so not too much extra power to play with. In addition to the sound differences I hope to find out the impedance differences of the two enclosures, hopefully Dave or Scott will chime in.
 
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I take it would be prudent to have 1 side panel screwed on so its removable and sus out the stuffing that works in my room, then when satisfied the side could be glued filled and veneered.

I have made my recent speakers (FH3 and 10P Pensil) with removable tops. I don't like pulling the speaker to adjust the stuffing. There is too much chance of having the allen wrench slip and hit the cone.
The removable top also lets me completely build the speaker before installing any stuffing which makes the building easier.