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-   -   Frugel-Horn XL for Alpair 10.3/10p, Fostex FF165wk, more (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/246248-frugel-horn-xl-alpair-10-3-10p-fostex-ff165wk.html)

paul burchell 14th May 2018 09:56 PM

Eric if formbys says so well giver.

I remember varnish cans telling us"do not us over shellac" i guess they should have said do not use over a thick layer of shellac with wax in it.
What they did not say was there is no better sealer coat under your varnish than shellac and it sands way better.
I so hate decptive marketing.

I dont get the point or benefit of using raw oil unless you plan on putting a traditional oil finish or oil &wax mix.
Most of my finishes are a blend of more basic ingredents (boiled oil, varnish, varsol a variety of shellacs and waxes).

Chris i have never uses that before they do have a variety of products, i will have to keep a eye out for them when in the bbox stores. My wife is always looking for better cleaners and polishes for the cupboards and floors.

chrisb 14th May 2018 10:00 PM

Paul - Home Hardware / Windsor plywood hereabouts

paul burchell 14th May 2018 10:06 PM

Home of the handyman.:cheers::cheers::cheers:

Nikodemuzz 17th May 2018 06:29 AM

I just realized I made a rather dumb mistake. The construction of my cabinets differs from the original plans in the way the front baffle is attached. In order to keep the inner dimensions the same I should have taken into account the different method of construction. I have this in my notes but, alas, it was never done. So, the inner chamber is too large by 18mm. Unfortunately at this stage I can't think of any easy (or even moderately difficult) way to fix it. How significantly can this affect the performance of the speakers?

GASCo 12th June 2018 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nikodemuzz (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/246248-frugel-horn-xl-alpair-10-3-10p-fostex-ff165wk-post5436063.html#post5436063)
So, the inner chamber is too large by 18mm. Unfortunately at this stage I can't think of any easy (or even moderately difficult) way to fix it.

Are these 18mm side to side or top to bottom?

GASCo 12th June 2018 11:45 PM

Question regarding cabinetry:

If one doesn't want to pop screws or nails through the sides of the cabinets, would just glue hold the cabinet together with butt joints? Asking form a rigidity point of view, of course.
I'm planning to use already veneered plywood that's why I ask.
I assume I could dado the panels if needed, but really would prefer not to go through that trouble. If butt joints without fasteners is not recommended, would biscuit joint be a good compromise?

And question about acoustics:

Would it be damaging in any way to apply vinyl fabric (Pleather for example) to the front of the speaker cabinet . I've seen a commercial version of the FH with this kind of work and found it beautiful. However, I am concerned if in the DIY version that relatively padded material would be deleterious to performance in any way.

https://hifipig.com/wp-content/uploa...6/FRUGEL_3.jpg

planet10 12th June 2018 11:51 PM

Quote:

If one doesn't want to pop screws or nails through the sides of the cabinets, would just glue hold the cabinet together with butt joints?
Yes, as long as you use good glue. I have even seen arguments that say screws degrade the strength.

dave

Nikodemuzz 13th June 2018 09:12 AM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by GASCo (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/246248-frugel-horn-xl-alpair-10-3-10p-fostex-ff165wk-post5460602.html#post5460602)
Are these 18mm side to side or top to bottom?

Thanks for the reply! Actually, never mind. I double checked and the dimensions are just what they should be, so the problem was in my head... Sorry, I must seem like a proper fool, but I do manage to confuse myself every now and then... :o:)

I removed a bunch of foam filling from the cabinets. If I recall I originally put 60g of foam to each speaker, and now I reduced it to 20g, expecting that I would have to put some back. It had a profound impact on the sound, in a very positive sense. The tin-canny effect I was describing earlier was eliminated to a large degree. What brightness is left is characteristic I'm sure. The soundstage opened up very nicely.

As to Paul's comment regarding using pure tung oil, at least in this case it makes a big difference in accentuating the grain. The effect is very pronounced compared to any other oil or wax I tried. Shellac I then use to provide a protective layer, and some shine.

I proceeded to apply the shellac now, and consider the speakers complete. I'll add a few photos to show the end result. There is a bonus photo of my phono stage, I made a new case for it from the scraps of this project. :)

zman01 13th June 2018 11:46 AM

Nikodemuzz,

Great job with the speakers and nice setup you got there. :)

planet10 13th June 2018 02:01 PM

Lovely build. :^)

dave


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