Thanks for the kind and inspiring comments!
About ~ 52 litre for the total enclosure volume so that leaves a little more than 2 litre per driver.
About ~ 52 litre for the total enclosure volume so that leaves a little more than 2 litre per driver.
A while ago I mentioned upgrading the domed cap nuts I was using as poor man's spikes. Here's a picture of the new industrial feet I'll be using:
It has a sphere shape in a damped foot so I'm guessing it will work just as well as the capped nuts.
And as a plus give better stability. They can carry up to 900 kg a piece!
Finishing the polish on the aluminium so I figured to post a picture of the new feet.
It has a sphere shape in a damped foot so I'm guessing it will work just as well as the capped nuts.
And as a plus give better stability. They can carry up to 900 kg a piece!
Finishing the polish on the aluminium so I figured to post a picture of the new feet.
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Thanks for the kind wishes!
In the past couple of days I tried to finish the paint, a little polishing etc.
Left one untouched, right one is polished
Hard to take a picture of such a slippery finish
I think this one comes closest to seeing the result
Still not done with them. Sadly I went trough the finish in 2 places
.
I'll see if I can restore that a bit. I haven't done something like this before so it's a learning curve....
In the past couple of days I tried to finish the paint, a little polishing etc.
Left one untouched, right one is polished
Hard to take a picture of such a slippery finish
I think this one comes closest to seeing the result
Still not done with them. Sadly I went trough the finish in 2 places
.I'll see if I can restore that a bit. I haven't done something like this before so it's a learning curve....
Heroic project
Wesayso,
You really have done an outstanding job, esp noteworthy is your attention to detail and patience over such a long build.
IMO this is the single best overall DIY speaker project I have ever seen!
Congratulations one more time and I wish you and your family and friends many 1,000's of happy hours listening to the fruits of your hard labour!
All the best
Derek.
Wesayso,
You really have done an outstanding job, esp noteworthy is your attention to detail and patience over such a long build.
IMO this is the single best overall DIY speaker project I have ever seen!
Congratulations one more time and I wish you and your family and friends many 1,000's of happy hours listening to the fruits of your hard labour!
All the best
Derek.
Just one word regarding this project...WOW!!! If you were living in Puerto Rico I wouldn't hesitate a second in employing you. A great asset to any industrial company.
Those speakers are worthy of any audio industry magazine. I have see people pay US$50K+ for speakers that don't have the amount of work yours have built into them. After seeing your level of work, I'm sure you will be relentless until you obtain the right sound from them. The sound will match the looks.
Again, great work...Build a 1/4 sized version, and put them up for sale, see what happens. You might not need another job after all. Build a tube amp with the same high end finish as the speakers, and you might have a business in your hands. Having said that, don't count with most of us as customers, after all we are fellow DIY'ers...
Those speakers are worthy of any audio industry magazine. I have see people pay US$50K+ for speakers that don't have the amount of work yours have built into them. After seeing your level of work, I'm sure you will be relentless until you obtain the right sound from them. The sound will match the looks.
Again, great work...Build a 1/4 sized version, and put them up for sale, see what happens. You might not need another job after all. Build a tube amp with the same high end finish as the speakers, and you might have a business in your hands. Having said that, don't count with most of us as customers, after all we are fellow DIY'ers...
Alas, 1/4 sized versions don't work. Not of this particular type of array anyway; it needs to be floor-ceiling, or at least have a very considerable vertical length & total radiating area. Which doesn't mean other variations couldn't be done utilising some of the skillset employed here though. They wouldn't be cheap, given the man-hours involved, but nor should they be. Rules us broke DIYers out of course (alas).
That aside, couldn't agree more. Excellent work, one of the best DIY arrays I've ever seen, & if industrial / engineering / whatever companies can't see that you'd be a great asset to them, they are clearly mad.
They wouldn't be cheap, given the man-hours involved, but nor should they be. Rules us broke DIYers out of course (alas). That aside, couldn't agree more. Excellent work, one of the best DIY arrays I've ever seen, & if industrial / engineering / whatever companies can't see that you'd be a great asset to them, they are clearly mad.
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Thanks all for the encouragements .
The finish is 6 layers of polyurethane floor finish (oil based) over a nitro based dark antique stain (CBM 221).
Let it dry out for a couple of weeks. Next sand it lightly with 400 grid, followed by 600 grid and 1000 grid (all wet sanded). The polish was done mostly with McGuire automotive products.
A first polish with commandant #4 cleaner, a McGuire scratch-X remover after that, followed by a McGuire deep crystal polish.
I did it all by hand so it takes a while. An orbital polisher would speed things up but I have no experience with those.
The McGuire products are quite safe in use, they break down while polishing avoiding to ruin the finish.
The last polish was done with a piece of foam. I think with a bit of work you can get great results. It surprised me to get that much gloss. I already searched for ways to dull it somewhat until I realized our living room isn't equipped with the many neon lights I have in the garage. In the day time it really looks classy.
On the first try I was a bit too aggressive with the 400 grid paper. There is really no need though, just use it lightly.
.The finish is 6 layers of polyurethane floor finish (oil based) over a nitro based dark antique stain (CBM 221).
Let it dry out for a couple of weeks. Next sand it lightly with 400 grid, followed by 600 grid and 1000 grid (all wet sanded). The polish was done mostly with McGuire automotive products.
A first polish with commandant #4 cleaner, a McGuire scratch-X remover after that, followed by a McGuire deep crystal polish.
I did it all by hand so it takes a while. An orbital polisher would speed things up but I have no experience with those.
The McGuire products are quite safe in use, they break down while polishing avoiding to ruin the finish.
The last polish was done with a piece of foam. I think with a bit of work you can get great results. It surprised me to get that much gloss. I already searched for ways to dull it somewhat until I realized our living room isn't equipped with the many neon lights I have in the garage
. In the day time it really looks classy.On the first try I was a bit too aggressive with the 400 grid paper. There is really no need though, just use it lightly.
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I'm glad to get this much positive responses from all of you. That definitely keeps me motivated.
And, yes... I'll do anything I can to make the sound match or exceed the looks!
Even though I did my best to get a great look, it still followed by carrying out my ideas on possible performance gains and I do hope I'm right about that. A bit of the "form follows function" theory.
And, yes... I'll do anything I can to make the sound match or exceed the looks!
Even though I did my best to get a great look, it still followed by carrying out my ideas on possible performance gains and I do hope I'm right about that. A bit of the "form follows function" theory.
Thanks Ollie,
My plan is to EQ using my PC and JRiver Media Player at first. Possibly with an EQ plugin.
I'll take measurements using a calibrated microphone, separate for the left and right channel. Using multiple mic positions and averaging that. This will be done with REW and/or True RTA.
I'll try REW first, it looks like it has some neat features for a job like this.
I played around taking measurements when I setup my Car stereo. I also did some experiments in my home to get a feel for this sort of thing. It made my current old speakers image better than ever before.
I'll be using parametric EQ to get the basic outline and can use the graphic EQ for personal shaping of the curve after that. The gradual down slope towards high frequency is my first target, not flat EQ.
Once I'm happy I'll try and copy the curves with the Behringer. But serious 2 channel listening will be done using the PC setup.
My plan is to EQ using my PC and JRiver Media Player at first. Possibly with an EQ plugin.
I'll take measurements using a calibrated microphone, separate for the left and right channel. Using multiple mic positions and averaging that. This will be done with REW and/or True RTA.
I'll try REW first, it looks like it has some neat features for a job like this.
I played around taking measurements when I setup my Car stereo. I also did some experiments in my home to get a feel for this sort of thing. It made my current old speakers image better than ever before.
I'll be using parametric EQ to get the basic outline and can use the graphic EQ for personal shaping of the curve after that. The gradual down slope towards high frequency is my first target, not flat EQ.
Once I'm happy I'll try and copy the curves with the Behringer. But serious 2 channel listening will be done using the PC setup.
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