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The making of: The Two Towers (a 25 driver Full Range line array)
The making of: The Two Towers (a 25 driver Full Range line array)
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Old 21st October 2019, 06:46 AM   #5151
TNT is offline TNT  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesayso View Post
Thanks for the heads up, it will be possible but not easy. I think I'll run it closed first. It's easy on the bottom end to create some slits, but it would probably be more effective up top.

I browsed a lot of plate amp pictures (most of them were Class A/B though) and most of those were closed so I figured I'd be ok.
Yes - but Hypex tend to run a fair bit hotter than the rest of the bunch. Make a slit below and above the plate and you get natural convection. At leasts keep good track of temp - must be some simple board on ebay etc with a display for that.

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Old 21st October 2019, 09:40 AM   #5152
koldby is offline koldby  Denmark
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I think that all the comments about convection cooling inside the box , is based on experience with SMPS designed as the one in photo1.
The heat producing elements in a SMPS are the switching FETīs and in the design in photo 1 they are mounted on top of the PCB with heatsinks on. Therfore they need convection cooling inside the enclosure. But , as can be seen in photo 2, the switching FETīs in the SMPS part of the Hypex module, are all bolted to the back plate (not visible on the photo, but they are. The TO220 on top of the PCB are rectifier diodes) just like the ouput FETīs in the amp section. Therefore all the heat from the SMPS as well as the amp is dissipated into the back plate and with the big heatsink Wesayso are using, there is no need for extra cooling.
I have been running the 250 W version , as shown in photo 2, with the lid on and with no other cooling (no heatsink) fullrange on my towers and they only get lukewarm after several hours.
IMHO Wesayso is on very safe grounds the way he is planning his subs.
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File Type: jpg Photo 1.jpg (97.2 KB, 175 views)
File Type: jpg Photo 2.jpg (90.7 KB, 176 views)
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Old 21st October 2019, 12:11 PM   #5153
wesayso is offline wesayso  Netherlands
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I appreciate all the concerns about the Hypex SMPS getting hot. I might consider putting a few extra holes in the enclosure, even though it would give me a harder time to do that on the top end.

Koldby's experience made me believe I'm save as is. I'm running a bigger heatsink on purpose. However now is the time to decide otherwise.

I looked up the Hypex fa501 and sure enough it is the same module as the OEM module I have and has slits for air:
The making of: The Two Towers (a 25 driver Full Range line array)-2_fusionamp-fa501-jpg
(kind of surprised to see they mounted it upside down with the SMPS below the amp section, heat rises right?)

My heatsink is way bigger though than this simple aluminium plate.

I might be able to create something simple up top with standard copper piping like these solder couplings and some copper pipe (12 mm):
The making of: The Two Towers (a 25 driver Full Range line array)-123-jpg


The inner case is mounted lower than the outside heatsink so I need to run chimneys to get above it (lol). On the bottom end I could put in two slits between the different connectors. Those would already be sealed by the case on the inside.

It wouldn't be very hard to do, but it would be easier to just go on without based on koldby's experience. But if I have to, I'd rather do it before epoxy/paint...
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File Type: jpg 2_fusionamp-fa501.jpg (287.7 KB, 338 views)
File Type: jpg 123.jpg (19.6 KB, 182 views)
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Last edited by wesayso; 21st October 2019 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 21st October 2019, 12:19 PM   #5154
fluid is offline fluid  Australia
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Could you put a smaller aluminium plate as a spacer between the modules backplate and your heatsink to allow small amount of airflow?
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Old 21st October 2019, 12:25 PM   #5155
wesayso is offline wesayso  Netherlands
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Brilliant idea! The inner side would be sealed off with the case, while still allowing some air in between on the outside. I guess I don't even need to space out the heatsink if I just create some grooves below the heatsink that end just above it.
I want it to stay as compact as possible, but a few mm would not break anything. I'll think about both solutions while I work on the connectors.

Thanks for the suggestion! It wouldn't even have to be that much space.

Reading your reply again I guess I misinterpreted your idea, but I figure what I suggested might work and be simple enough.
The heatsink is bolted to the sub enclosure, the inner case is bolted in the inside of that same Birch Ply backplate. Easy to put a
groove on either side of the heatsink to allow for air to flow trough. Or slits below and groove up top...
Another idea is to space out the heatsink 3 mm only on the sides so it gets airflow bottom to top.
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Last edited by wesayso; 21st October 2019 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 21st October 2019, 12:34 PM   #5156
fluid is offline fluid  Australia
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Originally Posted by wesayso View Post
Thanks for the suggestion! It wouldn't even have to be that much space.
No problem, glad to able to help even if it isn't strictly necessary I thinks it's worth doing if it's simple enough
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Old 21st October 2019, 01:12 PM   #5157
koldby is offline koldby  Denmark
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Another idea is to space out the heatsink 3 mm only on the sides so it gets airflow bottom to top.
Well if I interpret this right, this is not a good idea. The heatsinks needs to have as big a surface directly coupled to the modules aluplate beneath the PCB in order to get as low thermal resistance as possible.
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Old 21st October 2019, 01:23 PM   #5158
wesayso is offline wesayso  Netherlands
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They still will. The modules will be bolted directly to the heatsink. The spacers will be between the heatsink and birch ply sub enclosure (but only on the sides). Leaving an air gap between the wood enclosure back plate an the heatsink. The modules will still be firmly mounted to the sink with thermal grease.
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Old 21st October 2019, 01:46 PM   #5159
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That makes sense. What will keep those vents from compromising the air seal for the woofer? The aluminum cover I see over the back of the module? That is something I wonder about. It would seem to trap residual heat inside the cover. Without it, you might not need vents. But that brings up the question of what is the ambient temperature inside the box? 9x% of the electrical power is dissipated in the voice coil as heat. Where does that heat go? (I'm sure this will be a fun discussion.)
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Old 21st October 2019, 03:25 PM   #5160
wesayso is offline wesayso  Netherlands
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Not going there ... I keep the inner aluminium cover as protection cover and do not worry about that one getting warm. It is indeed the cover that seals the woofer from outside air in that case. I think I'm going for that simple solution spacing out the sides of the heatsink. I'll just use 4mm mass loaded vinyl strips on each side between the enclosure and heat sink, that's easy enough.

There will be fiberglass insulation material inside the box. I'm going to stuff it somewhat to get the lowest Fs.

Here's the connectors on the back side:
The making of: The Two Towers (a 25 driver Full Range line array)-connections-jpg

The RCA plug is somewhat sunk into the back panel to save space (15 mm). This way I can still get it close enough to the back wall, to have the front about ~ 50 cm from that wall (just like the arrays).

I still need to make a couple of ground connections, one to the inner case and one to the heatsink that run combined to the grounded power plug. I still have to find a good spot for the speaker outs on the inner case. Make some decent airflow grooves behind the heatsink on top and bottom.
But I think this is it as far as mods to the enclosure itself.
After that I just need to repeat it for the other sub .
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