XKi W5-2143
Greetings X,
2 quick questions,
I started the first XKi W5-2143 of a pair this A.M.
Any directions with regard to the front aperture?
I saved a picture of your XKi build buts its at an angle, so difficult to get "close enough for government work" from looking at it.
Is the damping material used and its application the same as with the 0.53x Mini Karlsonater?
Thanks.
Greetings X,
2 quick questions,
I started the first XKi W5-2143 of a pair this A.M.
Any directions with regard to the front aperture?
I saved a picture of your XKi build buts its at an angle, so difficult to get "close enough for government work" from looking at it.
Is the damping material used and its application the same as with the 0.53x Mini Karlsonater?
Thanks.
So I have be listening to my foamboard 0.4 Karlsonators with Aura NS3-193-BA's since 2013 and I have to say that I really love them, there hooked up to my TV. I thought that it may be time to build a second pair, 0.53 dual's out of wood and I keep thinking in the back of my mind that I read somewhere, probably on this thread, that I may lose some of the magic by not using foamboard. Is there a post where someone compares foam to wood? What is the general consensus? Thanks.
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can you share what open cell foam PPI works best for internal cabinet damping use and possible sources? Thanks.
More here:
Basotect for damping BR-cabinet?!
Use melamine foam. Same as Magic eraser cleaning pads. 100 from China for $7.
Basotect for damping BR-cabinet?!
Use melamine foam. Same as Magic eraser cleaning pads. 100 from China for $7.
Thank you, xrk971 for this project and all the info on drivers used.This will be my project for the winter. I was going to use one TC9fd in 0.4X, I have two of them.But I was lucky today and bought two Radio Shack 40-1197 (FE103) for 20$ canadian.I would say it is way better than TC9fd: more open and clear mids and more detailed with the same source.Very good for voices and jazz.If I were to use a tweeter, where should I put it?
I really appreciate it, thank youA small dome tweeter above aperture vertex for a cyclops look works too.
Made a start on a pair 0.4 Karlsonators,drew up scale drawing a few weeks ago and cut out inner workings from leftover scraps of Meranti marine ply .Raided wood rack and found some 12" wide 3/8" dressed Kauri sarking that came out of a 100+ year old villa when i cut a hole for a window ,machined it up perhaps 15 years ago so at least its well seasoned.Good use for it cutting thru nail lines so only odd scrim tack hole will show.
Cut sides rough to length and marked out the inner rebates so baffles set a few mm into each side still deciding whether or not to make them "corner" cabinets,will do rebating then decide
Cut sides rough to length and marked out the inner rebates so baffles set a few mm into each side still deciding whether or not to make them "corner" cabinets,will do rebating then decide
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If you use the search function in this thread and type “1197”, you will get lots of hits. But here is the 1197 Karlsonator build and test and measurements.
Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
Sims and plans here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/att...-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-knator-fe103-freq-0.5m.png
Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
Sims and plans here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/att...-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-knator-fe103-freq-0.5m.png
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Thank you, it was this post that made me buy my first two 40-1197.Looks like one in 0.4/0.53 box can replace a CHN-70 which is a 4" too, good hint for a noob like me.At the same time I did not find any info on dual 40-1197 in the same enclosure.I do not know if 40-1197 is too big for its size and specs to put two of them in a 0.53x box. It is bigger than TC9 FD and specs differ
It will require a bigger box than 0.53x. Basically, the volume will have to double. Would require a simulation which I can't do at the moment.
The design for the 1197 (or FE103) is 0.44x in height and depth and 0.55x in width.
Basic (within 1/4in) original 1.0x Karlsonator inside dimensions are:
29.5H x 15W x 16D. Scaled by 0.44x in H and D gets: 13H x 7D x 8.25W.
In order to fit two of them in a dual, need to add about 4 in height to make room for angled bezel.
So H is 17in, let's make W same at 8.25in, now calc D to get double volume of 1st.
V1=13x7x8.25=751 cu in.
V2=17xDx8.25=1500cu in, solve for D.
D=10.6in
So scaling is H is 0.58x, W is 0.55x, D is 0.66x. Kind of a tall and skinny box. This is all done assuming box scales with doubling volume and making baffle big enough for drivers.
You could play with reduced depth and wider baffle for a more "normal" look. Try 0.60x for all dimensions.
D=9.5in x W=9in x H=17.7in is 1513cu in.
So looks like a 0.60x scaled Karlsonator should look like a normal Karlsonator and be able to play two 1197's well.
The design for the 1197 (or FE103) is 0.44x in height and depth and 0.55x in width.
Basic (within 1/4in) original 1.0x Karlsonator inside dimensions are:
29.5H x 15W x 16D. Scaled by 0.44x in H and D gets: 13H x 7D x 8.25W.
In order to fit two of them in a dual, need to add about 4 in height to make room for angled bezel.
So H is 17in, let's make W same at 8.25in, now calc D to get double volume of 1st.
V1=13x7x8.25=751 cu in.
V2=17xDx8.25=1500cu in, solve for D.
D=10.6in
So scaling is H is 0.58x, W is 0.55x, D is 0.66x. Kind of a tall and skinny box. This is all done assuming box scales with doubling volume and making baffle big enough for drivers.
You could play with reduced depth and wider baffle for a more "normal" look. Try 0.60x for all dimensions.
D=9.5in x W=9in x H=17.7in is 1513cu in.
So looks like a 0.60x scaled Karlsonator should look like a normal Karlsonator and be able to play two 1197's well.
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I wouldn't mind cutting the width to 6 inches...that will require a H=26.55" keeping the same depth.I know it changes the ratio between sides, though.Is it too stupid to build it like that?
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