@Skylar88
Is this the right driver?
Faital Pro 3FE25 - 3 Lautsprecher 20 W 16 Ohm - Ferrit, 14,99 €
And do I need crossover (sorry thread to long)?
JP
Is this the right driver?
Faital Pro 3FE25 - 3 Lautsprecher 20 W 16 Ohm - Ferrit, 14,99 €
And do I need crossover (sorry thread to long)?
JP
Hello X
Please. I'm still in doubt regarding 10.2/10.3 excursion at 60hz and below. Is that harmful to the drive?
Thanks for help again.
Hi JP
Yes, that's the correct driver. Just connect them up in parallel, no crossover needed.
Originally, I complained about the high frequencies, and xrk suggested a baffle step. So I made baffle steps and used them for a few months. It worked to tame down the highs, but I felt that I was losing SPL overall (with the 6W ACA). Then I removed the baffle steps and now I'm just running some EQ in the media players. So, now I get the best of both worlds - tamer high frequencies, AND more bass.
Please let us know how you find these speakers. To me, the 3FE25's are amazing full range drivers.
.
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Those Faital Pros 3FExx and 4FExx are unique drivers - no other 3.5in I know of has 91dB sensitivity.
Price is excellent too.
With two 16ohms in parallel you have a 97dB 8ohm driver for 30Euros. That’s Lowther territory without high Lowther price and no crazy frequency anomalies either.
Price is excellent too.
With two 16ohms in parallel you have a 97dB 8ohm driver for 30Euros. That’s Lowther territory without high Lowther price and no crazy frequency anomalies either.
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Hi.
I would like to share my current experience with these drivers
I am just finishing two tabaq with 3fe25. the first listening tests are surprising so the bass are well defined, but I have a little trouble with the peak of 10 db in the treble. I made my first test with a zobel and a bsc (6.8 ohm + 1mh) but i plane to add a notch too to tame the 10-12k by a few db.
Yes, efficiency (per watt) is +3dB but sensitivity (per volt) is +6dB since twice the current flows and it has twice the radiating area.
Making slow but steady progress on my 0.53x Dual 3FE25-16 mini-k's. I went with a layer of 3/16" plywood under the top layer of foamcore to support the drivers and provide a solid material for the screws to bite into. With all the bracing glued up these things are tanks. So sturdy! I used MuddJester's score and fold plans but I added 3/8" to the height of the driver board so the lower driver doesn't hit the bottom of the enclosure before it's fully seated. 1/4" probably would have been sufficient. I started cutting the driver holes out with my Dremel and a 1/8" spiral upcut bit last night (with some help from my pup 
). Maybe not the best method but I don't have a 2-7/8" hole saw to make the cutouts. We'll see how it turns out. Getting close!!!
). Maybe not the best method but I don't have a 2-7/8" hole saw to make the cutouts. We'll see how it turns out. Getting close!!!Attachments
Great looking build there, Jwjarch! You can also put the wood on the top (front). A 3/16in layer of wood on the front face of the aperture wouldn’t be a bad idea either.
I think this one is going to sound pretty fantastic. I think JPS64 is also contemplating the same build. Thanks for the photos - lots of great detail on the bracing.
Cheers,
X
I think this one is going to sound pretty fantastic. I think JPS64 is also contemplating the same build. Thanks for the photos - lots of great detail on the bracing.
Cheers,
X
Looking good! Certainly enough bracing there!
Can't wait to hear what you think of them.
Thanks guys! The bracing is per MuddJester's plans with the exception of the 'E' brace. I added another one of those to stiffen up the bottom rear corner section of the speaker. Should make it fun to cut and fit all the felt too. I really can't wait to hear these! I think they will be a great test speaker to see what the differences are between all of my future amp builds.
I really can't wait to hear these! I think they will be a great test speaker to see what the differences are between all of my future amp builds.
Yes, those are permanent, Skylar. I thought about that too. I'm contemplating making a few holes in those braces to free up the air around the drivers. Thoughts?
How did you brace your driver boards?
Thanks JP!
For the foam board, attached is an image of the product that i'm using. It is widely available here in the States.
And here's a few links that might be helpful to you in Deutschland.
Buy Foamboard, white, white core online at Modulor
WESTFOAM Leichtschaumplatten | im Kunstlershop online kaufen
For the foam board, attached is an image of the product that i'm using. It is widely available here in the States.
And here's a few links that might be helpful to you in Deutschland.
Buy Foamboard, white, white core online at Modulor
WESTFOAM Leichtschaumplatten | im Kunstlershop online kaufen
Attachments
You can glue some felt to the braces to reduce direct reflection of the back wave. Or the Mr Clean Magic Eraser Pads (sliced to half thickness) works well too.
You can get a bag of 100 of those pads on EBay from China for $7. They are reticulated melamine sponges - same as BASF professional sound abatement foam.
Skylar, looking back at Twocent's post of your build it appears you had minimal bracing in the speakers. I wonder if I over did it.
Yes, the bracing that you saw in the pictures are the only ones I put in.
Jwjarch, I have never built speakers before these Karls, let alone design them, so I can only go by what I hear from my speakers. To Twocents and myself they sound fantastic for their size - and that is with minimal bracing.
From what I've read, bracing is good, so I don't think you've overdone it.