You are right, not only a zero too many but also a missing five.Correct scaling factors:
- H: 0.5979
- W: 0.5370
- D: 0.5282
Any luck with he build yet?
No not yet. Vacation in a couple of weeks. Hopefully get the time to clean out the shop and build a couple. But I am intrigued by several projects right now. I would also like to try the W5-2143 in a Decware DNA Horn.
Biggest problem though, a wife "get rid of at least a pair before you build anything new" embargo in full swing...
I have a detailed Akabak model of DNA I should simulate it.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/235457-decware-dna-horn.html
SWMBO's Second Law of conservation of audio...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/235457-decware-dna-horn.html
SWMBO's Second Law of conservation of audio...
Biggest problem though, a wife "get rid of at least a pair before you build anything new" embargo in full swing...
SWMBO's Second Law of conservation of audio...
Resistance is futile!
That would be really cool. I am playing with the idea of flipping them 90 degrees making them side venting with a wider baffle. I am also playing with the idea of putting two drivers on that wide baffle (looks like there could be enough room). I might even make a foam board prototype just to get an idea of what it would sound like in my listening room...
One question I have is how a horn design responds to multiple drivers? I guess it's not as easy as twice the Sd -> twice the volume or anything like that. I really like the small form factor of the DNA horn. So let's say it sound great with my W5-2143 but SPL is not enough in my (fairly large) listening room. I currently got my pair of W5-2143 assisted by a pair of subwoofers. I would love to get rid of the subwoofers and maybe a horn (or TL) could fill in the low end but I guess I would still be stuck with low volume background music. Not a big problem but it would be nice with some extra SPL...
It's not so simple with BLH's - needs to be simulated and the sims are quite accurate. A rule of thumb is to pick two drivers so that their sum Sd is about the same and sum Vas is the same, assuming Qts is the same. So sticking two W5-2143's in a DNA probably won't be ideal, but this is where the sim can help. I can adjust width of cabinet which increase Vas and allowance for larger Sd. Worst case is a cabinet that is twice as wide.
Makes sense, twice as wide would ruin the aesthetics of the DNA though and that would be a shame. So I will build them with one driver and maybe try out the idea of flipping them 90 degrees and compare side venting with wider baffle vs. the original design. I will not be able to corner load them and I am a bit worried that they might end up too close to the wall (I have no experience with back venting horn speakers so I don't know what to expect). The Karlsonator would be a better option in that regard I guess...
Finally got around to making a couple of little Karlsonators. These are the 0.4x with TC9FD. They sound amazing for their size. The dispersion pattern is perfect for my application, above the cabinets in my kitchen.
Thanks, XRK!
Great stuff! I cannot wait to finish mine (also 0.4x with TC9FD) - cut some board last night, but no gluing done yet.
You gave me a good idea
for how to place these speakers in my bedroom - Thanks von Ah.
Finally got around to making a couple of little Karlsonators. These are the 0.4x with TC9FD. They sound amazing for their size. The dispersion pattern is perfect for my application, above the cabinets in my kitchen.
Thanks, XRK!
Glad that it sounds good. It was a fairly easy speaker to make right? Sounds very nice given the low cost and time effort. Nice work on the construction.
I once mounted the 0.53x with dual TC9's upside down in the basement window well.
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A couple of firsts for me
My first post under my new user name. Finished my Karlsonators (0.4x with TC9FD) this weekend. So, this was my first speaker build and my first experience with full rangers. For years I have been reading and drooling over Lowthers. I might never get to Lowthers, but this project was my first baby steps in that direction. I had my doubts. Can a speaker be made with foam core? Can a 3.5 inch driver deliver sound better than my portable radio?
How do they sound? Simply amazing for the size of the enclosures and drivers. Imaging and detail in the midrange and up is really beautiful. They need a bit of help in the bass region, and that is why I planned a complimentary small sealed sub from the beginning. Here they are on the test bed (my dining room table) with the sub, being driven with a $12 Aliexpress TPA3116D2 2.1 amp (being used for the first time too). Such a low budget setup, but it sounds really really good.
I learnt in the process that my construction skills suck. I’ve never been good at woodwork either - I struggle to work accurately. Next time I will have everything laser cut. Soldering is easier and much nicer.
Thank you X and also MuddJester for the detailed 0.4X plans. I just had to convert those imperial numbers to more meaningful numbers.
My first post under my new user name. Finished my Karlsonators (0.4x with TC9FD) this weekend. So, this was my first speaker build and my first experience with full rangers. For years I have been reading and drooling over Lowthers. I might never get to Lowthers, but this project was my first baby steps in that direction. I had my doubts. Can a speaker be made with foam core? Can a 3.5 inch driver deliver sound better than my portable radio?
How do they sound? Simply amazing for the size of the enclosures and drivers. Imaging and detail in the midrange and up is really beautiful. They need a bit of help in the bass region, and that is why I planned a complimentary small sealed sub from the beginning. Here they are on the test bed (my dining room table) with the sub, being driven with a $12 Aliexpress TPA3116D2 2.1 amp (being used for the first time too). Such a low budget setup, but it sounds really really good.
I learnt in the process that my construction skills suck. I’ve never been good at woodwork either - I struggle to work accurately. Next time I will have everything laser cut. Soldering is easier and much nicer.
Thank you X and also MuddJester for the detailed 0.4X plans. I just had to convert those imperial numbers to more meaningful numbers.
Attachments
Twocents,
Very nice work - great build quality. Not sure why you say you aren't neat. They look great to me. What was your old screen name and why did you change?
The TPA3116 is the perfect amp for this and a sub is a great idea. Maybe a 10in sub when you get a chance? Just get a cheap $15 woofer and it can work fine. A large 15in open baffle H frame is neat too. It gives deep bass if you sit nearby but won't bother people in next room.
Congratulations!
Very nice work - great build quality. Not sure why you say you aren't neat. They look great to me. What was your old screen name and why did you change?
The TPA3116 is the perfect amp for this and a sub is a great idea. Maybe a 10in sub when you get a chance? Just get a cheap $15 woofer and it can work fine. A large 15in open baffle H frame is neat too. It gives deep bass if you sit nearby but won't bother people in next room.
Congratulations!