Great! Thank you. I am looking to build a set of karlsonator or XKi for my LCR. Since the builds seem fairly straightforward and materials are cheap, I may build both to see which I enjoy more.
Since I would be running these off a yamaha receiver, would it make more sense to use two of the 16 ohm pa130's for an 8 ohm load or would I be ok running a 4 ohm load?
Since I would be running these off a yamaha receiver, would it make more sense to use two of the 16 ohm pa130's for an 8 ohm load or would I be ok running a 4 ohm load?
Mini Karlsonator x0.53 with 4" Mark Audio Pluvia Seven
Hi folks,
Thank you to xrk971 for your designs.
This is my first attempt to build Karlsonator x0.53 driven by 4" Pluvia CHS-70) fullrange driver from Mark Audio. I use foamboard 5 mm glued with PVA. For fixing of speaker I use ring from 1.5mm PCB (inner diameter 100 mm outer 124 mm) with internal threaded holes (3mm) for mounting screws and glued with epoxy from inner side of the front panel where will be speaker mount for hardening and easy mounting or replacement. I use the same technique for terminals, but with pair of PCB rectangle pieces (60 x 25 mm). Total weight is 1.3 kg. For mounting front panel I use black oxide eyelets instead washers. Same you can find on a the top of the "mouth". This is my vision for finish and desired design.
I named this project "Sound of Knight" based on front view
Hi folks,
Thank you to xrk971 for your designs.
This is my first attempt to build Karlsonator x0.53 driven by 4" Pluvia CHS-70) fullrange driver from Mark Audio. I use foamboard 5 mm glued with PVA. For fixing of speaker I use ring from 1.5mm PCB (inner diameter 100 mm outer 124 mm) with internal threaded holes (3mm) for mounting screws and glued with epoxy from inner side of the front panel where will be speaker mount for hardening and easy mounting or replacement. I use the same technique for terminals, but with pair of PCB rectangle pieces (60 x 25 mm). Total weight is 1.3 kg. For mounting front panel I use black oxide eyelets instead washers. Same you can find on a the top of the "mouth". This is my vision for finish and desired design.
I named this project "Sound of Knight" based on front view
Last edited:
Mini Karlsonator x0.53 with 4" Mark Audio Pluvia Seven
Hi folks,
Thank you to xrk971 for your designs.
This is my first attempt to build Karlsonator x0.53 driven by 4" Pluvia CHS-70) fullrange driver from Mark Audio. I use foamboard 5 mm glued with PVA. For fixing of speaker I use ring from 1.5mm PCB (inner diameter 100 mm outer 124 mm) with internal threaded holes (3mm) for mounting screws and glued with epoxy from inner side of the front panel where will be speaker mount for hardening and easy mounting or replacement. I use the same technique for terminals, but with pair of PCB rectangle pieces (60 x 25 mm). Total weight is 1.3 kg. For mounting front panel I use black oxide eyelets instead washers. Same you can find on a the top of the "mouth". This is my vision for finish and desired design.
I named this project "Sound of Knight" based on front view
Attachments
Kytex,
Looks beautiful - very nice work! Regarding Pluvia and 0.53x scale - did I give you that scale to try? I would imagine that the Pluvia will be closer to a CHN-70 which has a smaller cabinet than the 0.53x. The size I used for CHN-70 was 0.44x height and depth and 0.55x in width. I have not run a sim for a PLuvia as far as I can recall.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/280669-improving-chn-70-a-5.html
Maybe it works fine though, how does it sound?
Looks beautiful - very nice work! Regarding Pluvia and 0.53x scale - did I give you that scale to try? I would imagine that the Pluvia will be closer to a CHN-70 which has a smaller cabinet than the 0.53x. The size I used for CHN-70 was 0.44x height and depth and 0.55x in width. I have not run a sim for a PLuvia as far as I can recall.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/280669-improving-chn-70-a-5.html
Maybe it works fine though, how does it sound?
Thank you very much xrk971!
No, I never contact you before and maybe that was my big mistake. I just read many posts and decide 0.53x will be better scale for Pluvia Seven. But I'm ready to start new design based on proper dimensions. Probably I'll try to build everything with 5 or 8 mm plywood or MDF. I'll be very grateful if you send me proper design for this driver. The sound is clear and good enough but I'm not so impressive and wish to try another design more suitable for Markaudio Pluvia Seven driver. What about Faital Pro 4FE35? I can easily obtain these driver in my country.
No, I never contact you before and maybe that was my big mistake. I just read many posts and decide 0.53x will be better scale for Pluvia Seven. But I'm ready to start new design based on proper dimensions. Probably I'll try to build everything with 5 or 8 mm plywood or MDF. I'll be very grateful if you send me proper design for this driver. The sound is clear and good enough but I'm not so impressive and wish to try another design more suitable for Markaudio Pluvia Seven driver. What about Faital Pro 4FE35? I can easily obtain these driver in my country.
Last edited:
Herewith the speaker T/S parameters
Attachments
Hi Lemon^2,
I use Akabak to simulate the Karlson and Karlsonator. The code I have developed is not public as it contains a lot of IP that I developed. The outline of how I built the model is described here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/213594-karlson-10.html#post3528706
And here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/237948-speaker-kicks-butt-large-spaces.html
And the very interested DIY'er with enough persistence can make their own model using the guidelines I have posted (one other member has done so that I know of).
However, I am more than happy to run a simulation for you and give you the recommmemded speaker design.
The Nautaloss on the other hand, is a straightforward tapered sealed TL with driver at one end, that can be modeled using HornResp, or any other number of codes. Make a TL at least 3 ft long when spiral is in-coiled. Have it start as wide as driver and taper to a point.
The specific driver you show is a typical soft suspension full range driver probably suited to open baffle. With a rather large Qts (weak motor) and floppy suspension (large 218 liter Vas) says you need a box on the order of 8 cubic feet (huge) to realize the low end bass that it has. If you put it in a Nautaloss of reasonable size, its low end will roll of in ten 200-300Hz range and is suitable for a FAST (2 way with woofer crossover around 300Hz-600Hz).
It won't work in a Karlsonator very well - unless it's a very large one. But maybe that is just as well as the magnet is huge in size.
This may work in a large enclosure that is hollow but completely vented on the bottom toward the floor - no bottom panel and elevated with feet to allow sound to escape. Make a large 8 cubic foot box about 14in wide x 19in deep x 43in tall and elevate bottom by 1.5in to 2in feet with no bottom panel. Mount driver at about 15in from the top (centerline), add stuffing from top to just below driver and held in place by a netting to keep the stuffing from falling. Line 2 of the walls with 2in thick fiberglass or 0.5in thick felt from where full stuffing is on down. You can be creative and make the enclosure non rectangular but keeping the same cross sectional area. Tear drop shape is a good one with curved walls. It's still a very large and imposing speaker but will probably sound pretty good as designed. That can be done without any simulation at all based on the range of Qts and Vas and type of driver that it appears to be. Certain large back loaded horns may work too (like ones by Kohu).
I use Akabak to simulate the Karlson and Karlsonator. The code I have developed is not public as it contains a lot of IP that I developed. The outline of how I built the model is described here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/213594-karlson-10.html#post3528706
And here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/237948-speaker-kicks-butt-large-spaces.html
And the very interested DIY'er with enough persistence can make their own model using the guidelines I have posted (one other member has done so that I know of).
However, I am more than happy to run a simulation for you and give you the recommmemded speaker design.
The Nautaloss on the other hand, is a straightforward tapered sealed TL with driver at one end, that can be modeled using HornResp, or any other number of codes. Make a TL at least 3 ft long when spiral is in-coiled. Have it start as wide as driver and taper to a point.
The specific driver you show is a typical soft suspension full range driver probably suited to open baffle. With a rather large Qts (weak motor) and floppy suspension (large 218 liter Vas) says you need a box on the order of 8 cubic feet (huge) to realize the low end bass that it has. If you put it in a Nautaloss of reasonable size, its low end will roll of in ten 200-300Hz range and is suitable for a FAST (2 way with woofer crossover around 300Hz-600Hz).
It won't work in a Karlsonator very well - unless it's a very large one. But maybe that is just as well as the magnet is huge in size.
This may work in a large enclosure that is hollow but completely vented on the bottom toward the floor - no bottom panel and elevated with feet to allow sound to escape. Make a large 8 cubic foot box about 14in wide x 19in deep x 43in tall and elevate bottom by 1.5in to 2in feet with no bottom panel. Mount driver at about 15in from the top (centerline), add stuffing from top to just below driver and held in place by a netting to keep the stuffing from falling. Line 2 of the walls with 2in thick fiberglass or 0.5in thick felt from where full stuffing is on down. You can be creative and make the enclosure non rectangular but keeping the same cross sectional area. Tear drop shape is a good one with curved walls. It's still a very large and imposing speaker but will probably sound pretty good as designed. That can be done without any simulation at all based on the range of Qts and Vas and type of driver that it appears to be. Certain large back loaded horns may work too (like ones by Kohu).
Last edited:
Not on my everyday carry-everywhere laptop - so I am limited to when at home on the desktop. I do have access just very limited schedule wise.
I used to have like 6 old Win XP install DVD's and licenses. Now I need just one to install XP on a VM on my Win10 laptop and can't find them.
Last edited:
Hi X,
You can use Oracle Virtualbox for free:
Download Windows XP For Free and Legally, Straight From Microsoft
Hi X,
At last which design is recommended for Karlsonator for MA Pluvia Seven (based on next posts)?:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-...a-seven-3.html
(0.56x height and depth (16.25in tall) and 0.4x width)
or
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-...c9fds-189.html
(0.44x height and depth and 0.55x in width)
Best Regards,
Nick