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Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
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Old 12th March 2014, 04:34 PM   #511
SyncTronX is offline SyncTronX  United States
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Finally got the pics developed, as promised.
Earlier than 6 O'clock news.

Layout
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Layout2
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Assistant
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Assistant with measuring device, big
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Assistant with writing device
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Assistant measuring
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Assistant marking the measurement
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Assistant drawing the measurement
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Exacto sharpen, no assistant
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Layout before cut
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Draw on board before cut
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Ensure to scale
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Check before cut
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Prototype after initial cut and fit
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Prototype rear fit
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Old 12th March 2014, 04:41 PM   #512
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
Sync,
Nice work! You are very careful laying it out. I am a bit more sloppy in that I cut a long strip and then chop it up at the correct lengths (based on the sketch on the side panel) to form the internal channels. Then I glue it to the hand sketch on a sidewall with key points measured with a ruler but never a drafting ruler or T square and protractors. Grandcalmar has found that using a long strip and creasing and bending at corners provides a nice contiguous channel. I think this may be the way to go. You actually chemically developed the photos? Wow, I haven't touched a film camera in years (and I have some nice ones). Keep up the great progress. You are close to first sound.
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Old 12th March 2014, 05:08 PM   #513
Kokanee is offline Kokanee  Canada
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Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
X, Freddi, anyone,

Just a quick question on the WAF for the K models. Is it possible to put the vent so it opens upward (ie: turn the K upside down). I realise this would mean a modification to the angle of the baffle, but might look better. Just wondering if any one has tried this and can comment on the sound.
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Old 12th March 2014, 05:34 PM   #514
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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It works, less bass extension and less bass amplitude due to less floor loading. It works and sounds pretty nice though. You can't really change the angle because that is integral to the mouth and the K-aperture. Mount high (7 ft) and have it aim down. Or put grill cloth on the whole thing and problem solved.
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Old 12th March 2014, 05:36 PM   #515
SyncTronX is offline SyncTronX  United States
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X,

The next pints on me.
Processing film is my little joke for taking so long
to post the pics, please take no offense.

Yeah I have a nice film camera that is kind of in forever storage now.

I have the fit right I think. I have to find a way to cut the little
wood panels to mount the speakers, and panels for the back to
mount the binding posts. I guess I can drill and
hand held saber saw it. I just don't want my little prototype
to shake all apart.

I think I do the same, after I drew it on the sheets, I cut
smaller strips for the mounting points. I used double tape
to hold them, then test fitted and glued in the tabs (for lack
of a better word).

I'm kind of doing what Grandcalmar is doing I think but I
scored the the bends with Xacto, then split the board.
My thought was then I will hot melt glue alaong the
the seam which I scored (or split) so no air leaks
out and provides support. The other side of the
score has the paper intact, it is just bent.

FYI - I could not figure out a way to draw the
speaker cut out w/o a compass. It is actually
a childs compass, but it works what can i say.
The kid was crying because I took it from her.
I'm a mean ol' guy.

AND

If you look at the second pic, I withheld my
assistance baby bottle until she got to work
and drew out to scale on the panels.
I'll be in hot water with the labor relations
board, so please don't tell anyone.

I ended up not using the drafting t-square because
many years ago it lost a screw and it wobbles just
enough to not be square.

I've not been able to find a replacement screw.
it is something like a #2 or #4 beveled philips
about 1/8 inch.

Considering someone who has great distain for
wobbly tools I sure do have a collection of them.
For some reason they seem to migrate to me, go figure?

AND

I actually have a couple of nice wood panels that
would make a good looking speakers based on the
foam prototypes. They are thin 1/8 plywood, that could
be dampened and braces internally. Might sound okay too.

First I need to finish my foam jobs.

Thanks everyone for your support.

Post Script - I didn't know how to get the formula/function
that you has posted X, so I found pic with the nubers on
it and then tried to scale it.

I have the expo0nential slot running the length of the speaker
but and am now thinking maybe it should be around 2/3s the
length. Some of the hybred speakers seem to have the
slot not even covering the speaker but are only on
the the ported side of the cabinet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
You actually chemically developed the photos? Wow, I haven't touched a film camera in years (and I have some nice ones).
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Last edited by SyncTronX; 12th March 2014 at 05:43 PM. Reason: I like to edit--my fingers runnith over. : )
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Old 12th March 2014, 05:41 PM   #516
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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I find convenient round household objects with the same diameter as my driver cutout and use that to draw the circle to cut. For the Vifa it is the inside of a standard 3 in dia roll of packing tape. For the 6.6 inch woofers, it is a Williams Sonoma China soup bowl - which also doubles as the sharpening stone for the xacto on the bottom rim (don't tell my wife).
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Old 12th March 2014, 05:46 PM   #517
SyncTronX is offline SyncTronX  United States
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That's pretty good X...thanks for the suggestions.
Sometimes I think too much in the box.
Cups, bowls, glasses, I"ll never look at
them the same again.

...and the wife will never let me hear the end of it either.

I got some rather nice sharpening stones when
I was last in Arkansas. I got the biggest one's
they had because I hate running out of room
esp with a knife. They are all about 10" x 3".

If I could find some about 24" x 8" it would
make me a happy camper.
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Last edited by SyncTronX; 12th March 2014 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 13th March 2014, 02:40 AM   #518
prezden is offline prezden  Canada
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Hi X- I have started work on the Mini K using the sizing you recomended:

The W3-881SJF sims very nicely in a 0.4x in height and depth and 0.33x in width.

My dimensions are 11.75x 6.125x 4.5 inside dimensions. Does that seem about right to you? I'm concerned that the width is so narrow.

cheers
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Old 13th March 2014, 03:46 AM   #519
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prezden View Post
Hi X- I have started work on the Mini K using the sizing you recomended:

The W3-881SJF sims very nicely in a 0.4x in height and depth and 0.33x in width.

My dimensions are 11.75x 6.125x 4.5 inside dimensions. Does that seem about right to you? I'm concerned that the width is so narrow.

cheers
That sounds about right, you can make it 5 in wide without too much of a problem if you want it wider.
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Old 21st March 2014, 03:54 PM   #520
grandcalmar is offline grandcalmar  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SyncTronX View Post
I'm kind of doing what Grandcalmar is doing I think but I
scored the the bends with Xacto, then split the board.
My thought was then I will hot melt glue alaong the
the seam which I scored (or split) so no air leaks
out and provides support. The other side of the
score has the paper intact, it is just bent.
For bends I cut the top layer of paper and only part way into the foam and then bend the board with the cut on the inside of the bend. I find there is no need to add hot glue - the bend is airtight. To make the double thick baffle I do the opposite and bend away from the cut which completely severs the foam but leaves the inside paper intact, making it easy to line up the two pieces (I then join these with a simple glue stick). Using this technique the innards of a 0.4X mini Karlsonator can be formed from one piece of FC with just bends and no hot glue.

Cheers!
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