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Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
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Old 8th March 2014, 01:35 PM   #501
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
Got Foam?
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Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
Francisco,
Fantastic job there - the first mini Karlsonators I know of made out of all wood! Beautiful. They do indeed sound better on the floor - they were designed for floor placement. The highs will be just a little less than the Cornus since there is the Karlson aperture, but you make up for it in wider uniform directivty and deeper bass and more mid-bass. It makes a difference to fully screw or glue the front K-aperture on - you won't know the true sound until you do. The sounds in recordings you now hear are all the sounds you have been missing! It makes a lot of live recordings sound like you are in the room because you can hear all the sounds like feet shuffling on the stage, fingernails scratching on the wire wound strings of a bass as the hand moves up and down, etc. It's amazing that the little 3110 amp and a four 3.5 inch drivers can fill up a 5x6 meter room.


Regards,
X
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Old 8th March 2014, 02:35 PM   #502
FranciscoPerez is offline FranciscoPerez  Spain
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Glad to hear I'm the first one building them!! Yes you're right, it's like actually being on stage.

Your comment about the front K-aperture encourages me to finish the speakers as soon as possible, do you think it is a good idea to use speaker gasket strips and nails/screws to seal it? I'm a little concerned that without the speaker gasket the front K-aperture won't be completely sealed, but I don't know if it would be a good idea to use that as a sealing material.

Thanks X! I'm really happy with the result, this was a cheap project ( even cheaper for you people living in the US ) and compared to the Cornus it was like shooting fish in a barrel !! The results already exceeded my expectations, can hardly wait to definitely close the speakers and hear the difference!!

Cheers,
Fran
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Old 8th March 2014, 03:10 PM   #503
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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Fran,
Sealing gasket and screws for the front are a good idea. Let's you remove front to remove drivers to adjust stuffing.
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Old 8th March 2014, 03:40 PM   #504
FranciscoPerez is offline FranciscoPerez  Spain
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I'll go for that!! Thanks
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Old 9th March 2014, 09:23 PM   #505
SyncTronX is offline SyncTronX  United States
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Well that was uneventful,

(my post is nowhere to be found.)

Update,

Still working on the speaker, had to get some more parts.

Also need some more white foam,
have a black foam spare, maybe for the bottom, back, and top.

I almost was thinking about using it for the sound board.

Question - Drivers Looking at it I don't think the tweeter will sound so good
on the top board (board above the driver).

I'm thinking of sliding the mid/bass up or down and thinking tweeter would
disburse better on the bottom with the mid/bass on top.

Then, this would misalign the time...maybe slurring the sound somewhat?
Better to place tweet above mid bass now wonder how much the wings will
direct it?

However, I wonder if I make a bracket and can mount above the inverted dust
cap of the mid/bass driver.

Now I'm thinking that I should have just done the cab in wood to begin with.


NOTES:

My mid/bass drivers weigh in at over 2 lbs each.
This will pull apart the speaker eventually with use.

The hot melt glue I have isn't the best stuff on earth,
wondering how epoxy would do?

Hot melt is definitely pretty quick. Have something like
Masonite that I'll back the driver sound board with.

Then make a triangle brace for the side and bottom.
It doesn't need to be solid I think, but like a triange
it will hold up well.

For holding pieces and fitting I use double sided tape.
Like double sided celophane tape, then when fitting
parts I glue in the alignment/brace foam pieces.

Havent't fitted the masonite yet.
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Old 10th March 2014, 12:13 AM   #506
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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Use a wood supra baffle if your driver weighs 2 lbs. or use all wood on front baffle. The hot melt is key for tacking pieces I n place while you hold it by hand to set. You can add more PVA over the hot melt tack or epoxy but I don't think you need it. Don't worry about time alignment of tweeter and woofer. You won't hear difference in 2 in path.
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Old 11th March 2014, 07:22 PM   #507
SyncTronX is offline SyncTronX  United States
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This had proved more "challenging" to me that I though possible.

I should have just purchased a full range driver.

That said, trying to cut a 5.5-inch straight panel
prooved even more challenging.

It would have only taken 5 -10 mins tops if I had a 1/2 decent table saw.
I don't.

I have a POS Craftsman 9 inch band saw.
The saw speaks of Chinese designers not having a slight
understanding of what they are building/designiing.

Nothing is stable in it, so when you go to cut,
well you guessed it, once it loads, you get wobble
cut and off into the never never land you go.

I finally ended up cutting the rectangle face with
a skill saw. Which presents it own set of challenges.

Ah, but for the love of the foam...

Pics are still coming sometime soon.
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Old 11th March 2014, 08:30 PM   #508
SyncTronX is offline SyncTronX  United States
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I still have to develop them. : )
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Old 11th March 2014, 08:31 PM   #509
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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The wooden piece probably did not have to be flat edged of square if you glue it on top of the foam core. But it does suck to have non cooperative floppy tools. A bandsaw would normally be fine if the guide rail is stiff enough.
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Old 12th March 2014, 05:33 AM   #510
SyncTronX is offline SyncTronX  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
The wooden piece probably did not have to be flat edged of square if you glue it on top of the foam core. But it does suck to have non cooperative floppy tools. A bandsaw would normally be fine if the guide rail is stiff enough.
x, not sure what the guide is called. It is adjustable depending on
the thickness of the cut. So I asjust it abot 1/8 inch, tightening it
down start cutting and 20 degrees cut happens board wont
push through??? The guide drops down and blocks the wood,
then of course the cheap tube rails give up another 1/8 to 1/4 inch
turn on the wood piece.

Investigate, raise the guide try a few more time, same thing.
Tighten it again...

X, you know I'm really going to be p***ed off it my little butget
prototypes dont sound good. arrrrg. : O)

The whole guide structure is junk, one metal bolk with two plastic
nuts, one for raising and lowering the guide, one for tightening the
guide. Doesn't matter, you sturn on the machine and the guide
comes back down.

Now what does the guilde look like?

Think of the the sewing maching foot, which holds down the fabric.

Well the chinese in their brilliance, moiunted the foot, off by 90 degrees
So instread of whn you are pushing your board through to be cut and it
holding it down smoothly.....you hit the side of the foot and get stuck.

Pics on the six o'clock new folks, I promise.

I think one of the old folks homes around here has a table saw....

Thank you gentleman for yor patience wth me. I get cranky when I'm
trihg to do something "right" and I have to rig up ways to be mediocher(sp)
at best.

On the good side is my little helper, she keeps me in smiles.
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Last edited by SyncTronX; 12th March 2014 at 05:39 AM.
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