These ones are cheaper, and darker finish, nice actually-
AEJE Z1 Ein Paar Holz Lautsprecherstander in AEJE-Z1 Ein Paar Holz Lautsprecherstander aus Lautsprecher Zubehor auf AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
Also-
WOWWEEE!
Choose the Stype of your Life!
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My new favorite saying... 
If those stands are made of solid hardwood, that's a very fair price.
Btw, on the same store website, you can get some B&W clones for a low low price:
Nobsound DM8 1 Para 6,5 zoll Drei wege Holz Bucherregal Lautsprecher 2,0 HiFi Spalte Sound Home Professionelle lautsprecher in Nobsound DM8 1 Para 6,5 zoll Drei-wege Holz Bucherregal Lautsprecher 2,0 HiFi Spalte Sound Home Professionelle lautsprecher aus Regallautsprecher auf AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
Ali-surfing out of the way, now back to our regular K programming...
If those stands are made of solid hardwood, that's a very fair price.
Btw, on the same store website, you can get some B&W clones for a low low price:
Nobsound DM8 1 Para 6,5 zoll Drei wege Holz Bucherregal Lautsprecher 2,0 HiFi Spalte Sound Home Professionelle lautsprecher in Nobsound DM8 1 Para 6,5 zoll Drei-wege Holz Bucherregal Lautsprecher 2,0 HiFi Spalte Sound Home Professionelle lautsprecher aus Regallautsprecher auf AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
Ali-surfing out of the way, now back to our regular K programming...
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Shipping to SA can practically only be by courier. The local PO is useless and IF stuff arrives here, it takes forever.
I think it's safe to say that I will never pay that much for speaker stands. I'd rather make it myself. I'd rather spend $250 on nice speaker drivers!
Pretty much the same around here.
There's just one thing left to say....
D.I.Y.
There's usually more than one way to do it... use what you got, make it your own, make it special!
Like this kind of special:
Speaking of crossing the Karlsonator to a home theatre style sub, I just happen to have dug one out of storage (8 ohm "60W" HTIB type) when I went looking for some tools, and think I'll press it into use for the bedroom
I've got everything I need to build up a stereo (or parallel) LM3886 amplifier, so driving it will be cake.
If using a low-pass filter at the input to the sub, and simply relying on the dual 3FE25-16 karlsonator's bass rolloff, where would you put the corner frequency? Assume I'm doing a line level 12dB crossover (active, with opamps, most likely) for simplicity's sake.
I've got everything I need to build up a stereo (or parallel) LM3886 amplifier, so driving it will be cake.
If using a low-pass filter at the input to the sub, and simply relying on the dual 3FE25-16 karlsonator's bass rolloff, where would you put the corner frequency? Assume I'm doing a line level 12dB crossover (active, with opamps, most likely) for simplicity's sake.
that may be the first blue and certainly 3D-printed K-tube in history. (-assume its the camera which gives the impression of a positive flare. Transylvania Power Company's "THE TUBE" had a downwards taper which Walter Zintz said conformed to Karlson's patent - also might have made it easier to pull from the mold ?) - the very HF go straight down the tube. They can sound great with compression drivers and need no contouring in the highpass filter.
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I finally got a chance to rub a second coat of BLO onto 0.53x dual 3FE25-16 Karlsonators. Sanded it with 330 grit paper while wet with the oil. It’s drying out now and should be ready for paste wax next - maybe 0000 steel wool as well. Looking forward to getting these completed. These speakers are keepers that’s for sure. I listened to them elevated on a shelf and 4 ft away from a back wall and the imaging and sound stage is just unbelievable. There’s some Karlson acoustic lens aperture magic there that an open face conventional speaker just doesn’t have. You have to hear it to believe it.
cabinet rubout
I'd suggest using a scotchbrite pad to rub it out instead of steel wool. Those little particles of steel wool have a habit of getting into places you really don't want them, like magnets for example. Even rubbing it out with a grocery store paper sack works.
I'd suggest using a scotchbrite pad to rub it out instead of steel wool. Those little particles of steel wool have a habit of getting into places you really don't want them, like magnets for example. Even rubbing it out with a grocery store paper sack works.
600 grit is kind of overkill for wood finish. And, yes, kraft paper is pretty good for that, too. And the price is right. Haven't tried the melamine pads, but they oughta work.
Just joined this thread, very impressed with this design.
Anyone ever finished a Karlsonator that can manage flat down to 30Hz? I read on DIY audio that someone also had the idea for a Karlsonator sub - did that go anywhere? Alternatively any 30Hz-20kHz designs out there?
My room is only 5mx4m so I'm not sure how a Karlsonator would perform as getting them clear from the wall is tricky.
Anyone ever finished a Karlsonator that can manage flat down to 30Hz? I read on DIY audio that someone also had the idea for a Karlsonator sub - did that go anywhere? Alternatively any 30Hz-20kHz designs out there?
My room is only 5mx4m so I'm not sure how a Karlsonator would perform as getting them clear from the wall is tricky.
There is a sub called the "Transflex" by Matthew Morgan J, it has a Karlson aperture and is a TL, which sort of describes the Karlsonator.
New sub design? Constricted Transflex, simple build (series tuned 6th order)
There was also the MOAK thread where I was designing very large Karlsonator sub for DeonC:
MOAK: The Mother of All Karlsonators (aka The Magnificent Monster)
It was a 2.5x scale Karlsonator with dual AE TDM15H's, it goes to 20Hz:
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There is a sub called the "Transflex" by Matthew Morgan J, it has a Karlson aperture and is a TL, which sort of describes the Karlsonator.
New sub design? Constricted Transflex, simple build (series tuned 6th order)
There was also the MOAK thread where I was designing very large Karlsonator sub for DeonC:
MOAK: The Mother of All Karlsonators (aka The Magnificent Monster)
It was a 2.5x scale Karlsonator with dual AE TDM15H's, it goes to 20Hz:
Cheers - is there a Karlsonator that covers 30Hz to 20kHz, san sub?
Also, how are Karlsonators at near wall placement?
You can use something like a W5-2143 tuned low, you might get 40Hz and it has great highs to 20kHz. The 40Hz would not have much SPL and be distorted. For a driver to reach 30Hz with any significant SPL requires at least a 12in driver. Then reaching 20kHz is tough - maybe with a whizzer cone. Something like an Enminence 12LTA full range. Those have huge Vas s cabinet would be very big.
It's good to dream...
There's yet the chance that a single driver running 30Hz to 20kHz might be invented... someday... maybe.
I think you should be looking at something like a FAST setup.
A TL sub, used as a column to sit the mini-k's on top sporting smaller drivers to reach up high.
Then, there will be room modes in your 5x4 room... you'll have peaks and cancellations galore. So, flat? might not happen... unless you heavily plaster room treatments all over and use EQ and DRC room correction extensively.
Then, you'll have a chance to get them flat!
But... it is good to dream! I do it too!
Please forgive me if I'm hijacking the thread by mentioning a commercial (with DIY option) speaker.
Being the proud builder/owner of 0.53X dual 3FE25 speakers, I still long for some real bass. My search for the latter lead me to the 2 Pi Tower speaker which I intend on DIY-ing at some stage. At $100 per kit, it is said to be the best bang-for-buck in DIY audio.
I don't know how true this is, but with 96dB sensitivity and enough deep bass response to make subwoofers unnecessary, it's hard to ignore.
Being the proud builder/owner of 0.53X dual 3FE25 speakers, I still long for some real bass. My search for the latter lead me to the 2 Pi Tower speaker which I intend on DIY-ing at some stage. At $100 per kit, it is said to be the best bang-for-buck in DIY audio.
I don't know how true this is, but with 96dB sensitivity and enough deep bass response to make subwoofers unnecessary, it's hard to ignore.
There's no measurements about the Pi's so, I can't comment.
I did a simulation using a W8-1722 woofer and it has been the best sim I have done yet, one that reaches low and with nice output. It could be mated to a small mini-k sitting on top of the folded line.
Never had the chance to build it yet...
I did a simulation using a W8-1722 woofer and it has been the best sim I have done yet, one that reaches low and with nice output. It could be mated to a small mini-k sitting on top of the folded line.
Never had the chance to build it yet...
