You will need two 4FE35 in a 0.53x scale K'nator but only one PA130-8. My vote is for the PA130-8 as it is inexpensive and sounds great. Very lively and pleasant. Lacks some of the top end etch - but I can't hear above 16kHz anyway. There is a dual PA130-8 XKi if you are interested - it's in the XKi thread. But that probably is the most fun you will have with a pair of $18 drivers anywhere. 95dB at 2.83v sensitivity and digs down to 52Hz easily.
Wow, all my three mentors are posting consecutively. Thanks guys!
I think the felt left about 9mm of free and clear space for air to go thru, not blocking or anything. With the k-aperture not installed, they are sounding nice, no anomalies I can notice.
Yes the speakon is nice, I use cheap 1.5 dollar for male/female connectors, but they feel very positive and clicks into place nicely.
I think the felt left about 9mm of free and clear space for air to go thru, not blocking or anything. With the k-aperture not installed, they are sounding nice, no anomalies I can notice.
Yes the speakon is nice, I use cheap 1.5 dollar for male/female connectors, but they feel very positive and clicks into place nicely.
I just pulled my 0.40x Karlsonators (the original s/n 1) fitted with Faital Pro 3FE25's and put them on my paperwork desk where my Silicon Harmony SE Class A headphone amp sits. The Silicon Harmony happens to also be able to drive 8ohm speakers nicely. With a 28v rail, it can put about 6w max into 8ohms but all I need is maybe 500mW to drive the 91dB sensitive 3FE25's nicely. The 0.40x Karlsonator sure sounds nice with a SE Class A amp!
So go ahead, give it the best amplifcation you got, it will sound great (the SH, designed with Hugh Dean's help, is indeed, the best amp I have heard).
Check out the new sexy feet just installed:
So go ahead, give it the best amplifcation you got, it will sound great (the SH, designed with Hugh Dean's help, is indeed, the best amp I have heard).
Check out the new sexy feet just installed:
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The xrk971 W5-2143 Kalsonator Special
I was planning to document my build of the xrk971 W5-2143 Kalsonator in it’s own thread but it didn't turn out the way I thought it would so I just document it in here…
Background and rationale: I got a pair of TB W5-2143 and I really like the way they sound, especially the midrange for vocals and jazz. Not excelling in bass extension or SPL but good enough in a bog standard vented box so I have been in search for better alternatives for these drivers. The Karlsonator intrigues me and I also think that the Decware DNA Horn could be a good match. I decided to tackle the Karlsonator first. I constructed a drawing based on simulations and measurements by xrk971, who also provided me with some additional guidance.
Some use foam board for prototyping I use chipboard and scrap pieces. I made some minor changes to my drawing and started to build the xrk971 W5-2143 Kalsonator Special. Sanding sealer would have been a better option to seal the chipboard but I wanted to try a new water based sealing primer. Total fail, I really hate this product (white in the pictures), deluded PVA glue would have been much better (if schellack based sanding sealer is not an option). The boxes came together quite easily and I was planning a more modern looking take on the Karlsonator aperture (please refer to the pictures). I was planning to mount them against the triangular strips with velcro.
I used chipboard for the base (planning to veneer it if they sounded great), some ply to stiffen the baffle and to drive the mounting screws through, MDF for the aperture and additional stiffening the back panel (I planned to paint these off white and edge trim the chipboard with solid wood). I wanted to put it together in a state where I could actually get a feel for how it would sound before I invested time and money into finishing.
Today I manage to put the first one together with the W5-2143 element and benchmark it side by side with my original boxes. Maybe I had too high expectations but I immediately felt something was wrong with these new speakers. The bright open midrange that I love about the W5-2143 was gone. It sounded dead, muted, muffled in a way. Bass extension was way better than my vented boxes but pretty much everything else sounded worse. I really hate when projects doesn't turn out the way you anticipate and I guess there is much room for improvements but I will abort this build just based on how the midrange got affected. I also ran them without the aperture. They now sounded more open and airy but still way more artificial and closed than the vented box.
I will miss the bass extension and continue to augment bass with a set of subwoofers.
I was planning to document my build of the xrk971 W5-2143 Kalsonator in it’s own thread but it didn't turn out the way I thought it would so I just document it in here…
Background and rationale: I got a pair of TB W5-2143 and I really like the way they sound, especially the midrange for vocals and jazz. Not excelling in bass extension or SPL but good enough in a bog standard vented box so I have been in search for better alternatives for these drivers. The Karlsonator intrigues me and I also think that the Decware DNA Horn could be a good match. I decided to tackle the Karlsonator first. I constructed a drawing based on simulations and measurements by xrk971, who also provided me with some additional guidance.
Some use foam board for prototyping I use chipboard and scrap pieces. I made some minor changes to my drawing and started to build the xrk971 W5-2143 Kalsonator Special. Sanding sealer would have been a better option to seal the chipboard but I wanted to try a new water based sealing primer. Total fail, I really hate this product (white in the pictures), deluded PVA glue would have been much better (if schellack based sanding sealer is not an option). The boxes came together quite easily and I was planning a more modern looking take on the Karlsonator aperture (please refer to the pictures). I was planning to mount them against the triangular strips with velcro.
I used chipboard for the base (planning to veneer it if they sounded great), some ply to stiffen the baffle and to drive the mounting screws through, MDF for the aperture and additional stiffening the back panel (I planned to paint these off white and edge trim the chipboard with solid wood). I wanted to put it together in a state where I could actually get a feel for how it would sound before I invested time and money into finishing.
Today I manage to put the first one together with the W5-2143 element and benchmark it side by side with my original boxes. Maybe I had too high expectations but I immediately felt something was wrong with these new speakers. The bright open midrange that I love about the W5-2143 was gone. It sounded dead, muted, muffled in a way. Bass extension was way better than my vented boxes but pretty much everything else sounded worse. I really hate when projects doesn't turn out the way you anticipate and I guess there is much room for improvements but I will abort this build just based on how the midrange got affected. I also ran them without the aperture. They now sounded more open and airy but still way more artificial and closed than the vented box.
I will miss the bass extension and continue to augment bass with a set of subwoofers.
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My first thought but comparing the sound with and without my aperture I have no hope the normal aperture would make such a radical difference.
it could make a huge difference. I had a little "K18" with 5/8" upper gap - and overall a reasonably open aperture in front of the driver - it sounded "congested" - swiveling the wings on that coupler to 1.25" starting gap made a huge improvement and one of the best K-coupler I have heard. There was almost zero difference on microphone ploits. With a traditional aspect single driver Karlson, the aperture just barely "shades" the upper surround edges of the speaker. Some speakers can use narrower apertures - but none that narrow in my limited opinion.
If you can remove the aperture and re-cute or make new, then go with a "normal" aperture.
If you can remove the aperture and re-cute or make new, then go with a "normal" aperture.
I got pre-cut material for another 3 apertures (just hate to route MDF), will do when I find the time but I doubt it will make that much of a difference with these speakers and elements...
EmuMannen,
Very nice looking build and sorry it doesn't sound good. Your aperture is too small and doesn't have enough curves to allow the K slot acoustic lens to work properly. Try making the aperture wider and curved and smooth like a traditional one. You did not mention if you used any damping material like wool felt around the inside chamber around the driver - very important otherwise the back reflections cause cancellation dips in the midrange. The K aperture should also have a layer of felt on the back of you felt the highs were lacking. Definite without the K aperture they should not sounded muted or off - should sound like a speaker with good bass extension and nice overall balance. Give it one more try with more felt damping and wider aperture. Btw, aperture should be screwed in tight - Velcro won't work as it rattles and can't hold the large dynamic pressures generated.
Very nice looking build and sorry it doesn't sound good. Your aperture is too small and doesn't have enough curves to allow the K slot acoustic lens to work properly. Try making the aperture wider and curved and smooth like a traditional one. You did not mention if you used any damping material like wool felt around the inside chamber around the driver - very important otherwise the back reflections cause cancellation dips in the midrange. The K aperture should also have a layer of felt on the back of you felt the highs were lacking. Definite without the K aperture they should not sounded muted or off - should sound like a speaker with good bass extension and nice overall balance. Give it one more try with more felt damping and wider aperture. Btw, aperture should be screwed in tight - Velcro won't work as it rattles and can't hold the large dynamic pressures generated.
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can a karsolnator be made for desktop use with 2 TC9FD each but that is a desktop kind of size? say 12 inches high or so max? also as the driver is in the bottom area , would sound be in a lower area ? how far would project back, sides and with soundstage as typical monitor? is laid back or forward? as im about 2 or 3 3 ft awya in nearfield, i wonder if this is the safe way to go. playing with a nola trio brio clone, making experiments with cardboard before going to wood, but seems too bash shy? not much midbass and he upper driver with suggested 20 uf cap looks like will take a long time to break in, as is peaky in treble, fatiguing..