Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FDs

Here is my take on it, this is the 0.4x with single Vifa TC9, using 10mm plywood. Having no access to tools or space, I have my friend who is a carpenter built it. Do I have reasons to be excited, or to be worried? :D

Hey Jonathan, they do look nice and solid. I think you should be excited - these small speakers are amazing for their size.

Can you still get inside to do the stuffing and damping? Also make sure to seal all joints airtight.
 
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What is the dimension of the gap of the vent at the top? Looks very big in photo. It should be about 17mm. Photo looks like 30mm.

410245d1396600506-mini-karlsonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-karlsonator_04x_print.png
 
Hey Jonathan, they do look nice and solid. I think you should be excited - these small speakers are amazing for their size.

Can you still get inside to do the stuffing and damping? Also make sure to seal all joints airtight.

Hi twocents, the K-aperture is just placed there for the picture. I think I need to address the top vent first and possibly put another layer of felt up there. Thanks!

What is the dimension of the gap of the vent at the top? Looks very big in photo. It should be about 17mm. Photo looks like 30mm.

Hi X, I think so too. It was built according to that drawing but that indeeed looks like more than 17mm. How does it affect the sound? Does the K-aperture and the bandpass line look alright to you? Thanks!
 
The K-aperture in a Karlsonator should reduce the highs and smooth out the frequency response profile even. The lens effect of the K-aperture should reduce beaming. It does a lot of nice things, however, there will be a little bit of coloration (some dips in the mid range - mild effect). Lining the inside of the K-aperture and the front chamber with felt can reduce the dips.

Hi X, does it mean lining the inside of the K-aperture and the baffle where the driver is installed? Can I use craft felt or does it need to be thicker? Thanks!
 
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Hi X, does it mean lining the inside of the K-aperture and the baffle where the driver is installed? Can I use craft felt or does it need to be thicker? Thanks!

The felt lining on the walls of the front chamber (on driver front surface) covering K aperture, side walls, and top wall. Use at least 1/4in thick felt or Melamine reticulated foam pads (Mr Clean scrubber/erasor pads or BASF sound abatement foam).
 
plans for single driver x0.53 ?

Dear all,

I found out about the huge thread on the small Karlson enclosures on DIY audio only a few days ago: looks very exciting (I have been intrigued by the Karlsons since 35 years ... heard the 12" for the first time then), but I never built them (probably too large for my wife's taste).
Now about the small ones (0.4x, 0.53x): I get a bit lost in this huge thread; I found the really nice 0.4x plans (post #1366) and also the plans for the Tangband 5" (post #2012). Is the latter the "official" plan for the 0.53x sized Karlson, and could I use it for the Dayton PA130-8 also? I would like to take up the project to build the version for a 5" (Tangband or Dayton ... any recommendations?), not in foam board but in waterproof MDF or plywood ... battleship style ;-)

Sorry for the long message ... help greatly appreciated!

Best,
Dirk
 
Dear all,

I found out about the huge thread on the small Karlson enclosures on DIY audio only a few days ago: looks very exciting (I have been intrigued by the Karlsons since 35 years ... heard the 12" for the first time then), but I never built them (probably too large for my wife's taste).
Now about the small ones (0.4x, 0.53x): I get a bit lost in this huge thread; I found the really nice 0.4x plans (post #1366) and also the plans for the Tangband 5" (post #2012). Is the latter the "official" plan for the 0.53x sized Karlson, and could I use it for the Dayton PA130-8 also? I would like to take up the project to build the version for a 5" (Tangband or Dayton ... any recommendations?), not in foam board but in waterproof MDF or plywood ... battleship style ;-)

Sorry for the long message ... help greatly appreciated!

Best,
Dirk
Dirk, I just started a build of what I call the "xrk971 W5-2143 Kalsonator Special". I posted a drawing some posts ago based on the TB W5-2143 measures by xrk971 and his simulations. I have made some additional changes to that drawing therefor the "Special". I will document the whole build in a thread when I am done. It might take some time though (threading slowly). Just finished routing the baffles today. I use a rather unusual combination of materials; chipboard, plywood and MDF (there is a reason) and I am planning a "modern" take on the "acoustic lens". Stay tuned...
 
Dirk, I just started a build of what I call the "xrk971 W5-2143 Kalsonator Special". I posted a drawing some posts ago based on the TB W5-2143 measures by xrk971 and his simulations. I have made some additional changes to that drawing therefor the "Special". I will document the whole build in a thread when I am done. It might take some time though (threading slowly). Just finished routing the baffles today. I use a rather unusual combination of materials; chipboard, plywood and MDF (there is a reason) and I am planning a "modern" take on the "acoustic lens". Stay tuned...

Great, thanks! I found the plans ... and I'm looking forward to the realization.

Best regards,
Dirk
 
Dirk, I just started a build of what I call the "xrk971 W5-2143 Kalsonator Special". I posted a drawing some posts ago based on the TB W5-2143 measures by xrk971 and his simulations. I have made some additional changes to that drawing therefor the "Special". I will document the whole build in a thread when I am done. It might take some time though (threading slowly). Just finished routing the baffles today. I use a rather unusual combination of materials; chipboard, plywood and MDF (there is a reason) and I am planning a "modern" take on the "acoustic lens". Stay tuned...

Wow sounds interesting. I look forward to seeing more of your project.
 
After building two pair of MK 0.4X with great success I'm looking into a pair of 0.53X. Don't need more speakers but the fever hasn't quite ebbed. I would like to use in each one a faital 4FE35 OR Dayton PA130. Is there a concensus on which is the best driver for overall sound and fun factor?