FF105WK floorstanders

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Thanks Scott and Bob. Dacron it is, then.

I might staple the Dacron at the top and back just to stop it dropping - if it is possible to staple the stuff.

@IG81, I still need to have a look at your amp-gain solution, but I think that a log pot is the simpler and more effective solution. How are you currently controlling the volume on your amp?

Cheers,

Andrew
 
@IG81, I still need to have a look at your amp-gain solution, but I think that a log pot is the simpler and more effective solution. How are you currently controlling the volume on your amp?

Cheers,

Andrew

I checked my idea in more detail and realised it's probably not feasible the way I wanted it. It might be doable, but it'd "waste" one channel per board and bridging might not be possible the way the feedback will now be introduced, so we're stuck with 30dB of gain. I'm using an ALPS Blue Velvet 100K pot to attenuate, but gain could still stand to be somewhere between 15-20dB IMO. Ultimately, it depends on how much your source puts out and ideally match this up to the max power output of the chip.

IG
 
Just a point -the damping is nominally a uniform density throughout, as noted, so it doesn't really need holding up. You could put a couple of dowel-rods across it just above the vent to help keep things looking neat. A removable back, as mentioned, is useful since it allows much easier access to the interior so the density & even location can be adjusted to suit.
 
Baltic Birch is on order, cut to size. Also the FF105WK drivers are on order.

I don't have the space or woodworking tools. The Dremel turned out a dead loss, so I may get the pieces machined at the local prototyping business. Either that or I use a rabbet plane and hand tools. Will keep you informed.

Andrew
 
Just to let you know that these loudspeakers are coming along nicely.

After optimising the amount of Dacron stuffing and adding a dowel across & above the port, I am now gluing the final side panel to each loudspeaker.

Even when testing, just using the clamps to hold the final panel and without yet screwing the spikes into the insert-nuts, the sound is fab (magical and responsive). I do suspect the drivers need some break-in, can anyone describe what the Fostex FF range is like when running in?

I could do with a touch more bass, but the spikes and placing them closer to the wall should help.

Regarding the Dacron, for each side I laid 165 grams evenly along the enclosure (using a fan-style pleat) and found that adding a further 33 grams behind the driver helped give more body. Even changing the amount of stuffing by 10 grams made a massive difference. I think I've found the sweet spot amount between too treble-y and too dull.

Photos will be coming in a few days.

Andrew
 
Hopefully soon.

I am going through pain at the moment - in that I think the drivers severely need breaking-in (a.k.a. "a thrashing").

Last nights' listening session was a case in point.

Bass kind of wafted like a breeze, no definition - low-ish bass was difficult to discern notes. After about 3 hours the bass started to come-to-life. I was wondering if there was a bass-step problem, but bass is definitely improving. Treble still remains acidic though (and quite high treble content compared with mid-range). Mid-range is starting to gain some freedom and getting a bit more spatial.

Can anyone share some experiences of breaking in ff--wk drivers? Just to give me a bit more hope.

Andrew
 
I was wondering if there was a bass-step problem...

How far are the cabinets from floor / wall / corner boundaries? If they are pulled out, or up on stands, or whatever, and you're not using a circuit or EQ, then I think your instincts are correct.

Treble still remains acidic though

Are you perhaps hearing the 9dB on-axis peak at ~7kHz shown in the factory chart? If you move 10 or 15 degrees off-axis, that should quickly flatten it out (i.e., I wouldn't expect break-in to tame it at all). Otherwise, if you love listening on-axis (or extremely close), the only solution I know of is to notch it (with a circuit or digital EQ).
 
Thanks for all the answers so far. Here are some pictures of the build.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Although not shown here, the base has insert nuts to allow for spikes to be installed.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


As you can see below, a bit more stuffing was needed behind the unit. As Scottmoose suggested, you can see a dowel used to help support the wadding from the bottom. It should also help make the structure more inert.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


In their first position. Yes, behind them are some bass monsters... Audio Note AZ-3, though I am taking into account the size factor and just starting to get some clear tuneful bass from the little speakers
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An arty shot in their current position
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


A fuller view of their current position. Yep, they're firing directly forwards to overcome the current treble situation.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Andrew
 
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Dave Brubeck is sounding divine. Turns out that (at least of the moment) the chip amp is matching these loudspeakers in a better way than the valve amp. The chip amp has a simpler tone that doesn't congest/stress the drivers too much.

This is a similar chip amp to the IG81's and here is a picture of it:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Andrew
 
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