Hi Al,
Thanks for that offer, I know you're always there and I appreciate it but... there's a reason I don't own a mic.
I am much happier not knowing how they measure, at least I can still enjoy them
Yes, plausible deniability... I was going to suggest a $2 Panasonic wm61a and Holmimpulse but I see your point. Enjoyment is always better than nagging dissatisfaction.
Hi xrk,
Finally got around to ordering a pair of the Vifa TC9FD. The plan is to build your mini-FH3. Had to go to a second Dollar Tree to find the foam board this time.
I cut the baffles from 1/4" ply today, since the weather was sunny & 48 F. Even had time to sand & apply a coat of polyurethane.
Hope to complete them in the next 2 weeks.
Cheers, Jim
Finally got around to ordering a pair of the Vifa TC9FD. The plan is to build your mini-FH3. Had to go to a second Dollar Tree to find the foam board this time.
I cut the baffles from 1/4" ply today, since the weather was sunny & 48 F. Even had time to sand & apply a coat of polyurethane.
Hope to complete them in the next 2 weeks.
Cheers, Jim
Finally, someone willing to give it a try. I noticed a lot of foam core folks are doing plywood on the baffle - smart as it is minimal work and makes it look nice in addition to giving the driver some wood to attach to. Looking forward to your build.
It's a nice sounding speaker but it's going to be tough to be able to keep up with your metronomes with the Fostex's.
Good luck.
Love the measuring technique! Who needs waterfalls.
Did a similar test on some headphones recently. On a side note, I think the brown note is somewhere between 20-30.
It's a nice sounding speaker but it's going to be tough to be able to keep up with your metronomes with the Fostex's.
Good luck.
The Metronome is by far my favorite design! Could be why I have built 4 pairs (so far). The only other design I have repeated is the Fonken-- one pair of Fonken Prime and one pair of micro-Fonken. I am still in awe of how Dave D managed to get so much bass out of a stand mount speaker.
The Met and the FH3 (and of course your mini version of the FH3) are, in my opinion, very similar. You can look at them as tapered MLTL or a tapped horn with a restricted terminus. I modeled the Vifa TC9FD in your design as a tapered MLTL; looked so good I just had to try it for myself.
May have to build a regular FH3 after this... So many designs, so many drivers; so little time & money...
Cheers, Jim
Jim,
That's great that you modeled it. You are right that the Met and FH3 are similar from standpoint of tapered MLTL - with FH3 having a horn-loaded assist on vent to direct to a wall or corner (should have more bass gain than Met). Can you share the results of you model? Did you use MJK? Speaking of Fonkens, I am designing a micro Onken for the TC9FD - can't truly get the "Onken" design criteria for this driver (and Dave D also noted that the uFonken w/ FF85WK isn't a true Onken either - but a high aspect ratio shelf vent bass reflex). I would like to build full size FH3 one of these days - but want to incorporate the curved rear horn that I developed in foam somehow in wood.
I am thinking of getting some thin plywood to cover the front baffle - maybe walnut or cherry veneer ply even... saw that at HD.
If you do post your sims and build progress for this, please put it in the FH3-inspired thread so that others can find it easier - there is so much in the FC thread that things can get lost.
Thanks,
X
That's great that you modeled it. You are right that the Met and FH3 are similar from standpoint of tapered MLTL - with FH3 having a horn-loaded assist on vent to direct to a wall or corner (should have more bass gain than Met). Can you share the results of you model? Did you use MJK? Speaking of Fonkens, I am designing a micro Onken for the TC9FD - can't truly get the "Onken" design criteria for this driver (and Dave D also noted that the uFonken w/ FF85WK isn't a true Onken either - but a high aspect ratio shelf vent bass reflex). I would like to build full size FH3 one of these days - but want to incorporate the curved rear horn that I developed in foam somehow in wood.
I am thinking of getting some thin plywood to cover the front baffle - maybe walnut or cherry veneer ply even... saw that at HD.
If you do post your sims and build progress for this, please put it in the FH3-inspired thread so that others can find it easier - there is so much in the FC thread that things can get lost.
Thanks,
X
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Update on Flat MLTL - sound clip
Here is a sound clip from this speaker - I have been listening to it constantly in my office for the past couple of days. It sounds great with a variety of music including jazz, rock, R&B, hip-hop, pop, just about anything. Very balanced with great bass extension. I can just hear the low 41 Hz bass strings (soft) but at 50 Hz the levels are quite good.
Here is a sound clip from this speaker - I have been listening to it constantly in my office for the past couple of days. It sounds great with a variety of music including jazz, rock, R&B, hip-hop, pop, just about anything. Very balanced with great bass extension. I can just hear the low 41 Hz bass strings (soft) but at 50 Hz the levels are quite good.
Most in room recordings that are tried in evaluating speakers have been poor. Especially those on Utube. Yours sounded like a remote broadcast from a club. All you needed were some background conversation and tinkling of glasses . The music sounded live and very real, demonstrating that you achieved the intended goal with your design . Great job!
Thanks Ken! The tinkling glasses and background can be added by the user!
It actually sounds even better in real life than the recording - I guess that is why recording studios have nice $1000 mics and racks of equipment and anechoic wall liners...
I am doing something interesting with this speaker in that it is mounted directly behind me instead of in front as I do not have wall space in front. The sound is different from behind but the advantage is that it is closer (4 ft away) and I do not need to turn the volume up very high. I wish more folks would post sound clips of their speakers. I am not aware of anyone else in this forum who does. I think someone critiqued that posting it would be pointless because the effect of the room dominates and people really would not know what it sounds like. Yeah, but if it is good in your room, there is a chance that it might not be such a bad speaker. Better than buying(building) blind in any event.
The tinkling glasses and background can be added by the user! It actually sounds even better in real life than the recording - I guess that is why recording studios have nice $1000 mics and racks of equipment and anechoic wall liners...
I am doing something interesting with this speaker in that it is mounted directly behind me instead of in front as I do not have wall space in front. The sound is different from behind but the advantage is that it is closer (4 ft away) and I do not need to turn the volume up very high. I wish more folks would post sound clips of their speakers. I am not aware of anyone else in this forum who does. I think someone critiqued that posting it would be pointless because the effect of the room dominates and people really would not know what it sounds like. Yeah, but if it is good in your room, there is a chance that it might not be such a bad speaker. Better than buying(building) blind in any event.
I have not tried that type of evaluation with projects but may do so, as I have one of those Zoom H4 digital recorders that I have used for recording live musical events. Certainly, all rooms all sound different and the amount of equalization applied can also make a difference. I believe in bass and treble controls. They are needed to balance the room environment and help the system reproduce the sound as required by the listener. Full range speakers in particular need some type of equalization to function properly.
We have the same recorder - nice units. You should post clips of your foam core speakers that you just built with the FR10's and the Audience A3's. Those TL's look really nice, would love to hear them.
Max file size for upload is 900kB and has to be in zip format as mp3 extension is not allowed.
Max file size for upload is 900kB and has to be in zip format as mp3 extension is not allowed.
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Zipping doesn't compress mp3 any further (already compressed) - just needed to get around restriction of not allowing mp3 extension on uploaded attachments. The file size is your problem. DiyAudio only allows max file size of about 900 kB (0.9 MB) so your 10 MB limit should not be an issue. This means that at 128 kbps rate, the mp3 clip is about 30 seconds long. You can trim your mp3 file with software. A good free program to do this is Audacity. If you sampled at 320 kbps and you have a couple of minutes, it will be a big file. If you don't want to re-do the recording, open with Audacity and save as lower bitrate and trim length to fit. The zip. Then upload. I know, not the most user friendly or easy thing to do...