I built the horns myself based on the D-58es design. It was not specifically made for my driver, but still works quite well with it.
I dont have a large collection of 45 tubes, but I really like the sound of the Philco 45 ST tubes that I have. I believe they are from the 1940's. I also have the EMT 45 mesh plates that have wonderful air and soundstage, but for some reason dont do it for me. When I feel like a change, the 2a3 valve adds more midrange body to the sound, but ultimately I always end up back with the 45 st.
Rectifier and driver tubes also make a difference. My favourite is the 5u4gb tube rather than the 5R4 or 5AR4.
I dont have a large collection of 45 tubes, but I really like the sound of the Philco 45 ST tubes that I have. I believe they are from the 1940's. I also have the EMT 45 mesh plates that have wonderful air and soundstage, but for some reason dont do it for me. When I feel like a change, the 2a3 valve adds more midrange body to the sound, but ultimately I always end up back with the 45 st.
Rectifier and driver tubes also make a difference. My favourite is the 5u4gb tube rather than the 5R4 or 5AR4.
Looking for advice with adding a tweeter to woofer run full range. I want to use this driver (see link) but on a slanted baffle so that its at 30 degrees. This gives a flat response and nice roll off around 4k. This driver will be run basically full range.
https://www.parts-express.com/pedoc...rs150p-4a-reference-series-specifications.pdf
So then I would add a tweeter/super tweeter around 4 or 5k hz and do a 2nd order filter to try to match the other driver. Has anyone tried this? Should one try to time align at the point of the crossover? I know there's a lot of little details and the slanted baffle complicates things but wondering if this is even a good idea.
https://www.parts-express.com/pedoc...rs150p-4a-reference-series-specifications.pdf
So then I would add a tweeter/super tweeter around 4 or 5k hz and do a 2nd order filter to try to match the other driver. Has anyone tried this? Should one try to time align at the point of the crossover? I know there's a lot of little details and the slanted baffle complicates things but wondering if this is even a good idea.
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Ok thanks, I'm thinking I would need an 8 ohm tweeter also because if the woofer if full range then the impedance will dip too low in the high frequencies where the tweeter is drawing current.
You are talking about the FE203eSR Limited Edition?
If you want to add a tweeter passively, you need to get one that is more efficeit.
The only way you can make an 87 dB tweeter work is to biamp.
The budget option Fostex FT96H Horn Super Tweeter: Madisound Speaker Store
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
cheapest top mount (they go way up in price from there)
Fostex T90A Top Mount Horn Super Tweeter: Madisound Speaker Store
dave
I am using the Fostex T90A and love it. The thing about the highest octave, besides normal older age hearing loss, is very much a personal preference kind of thing. I am using this super tweeter with Mundorf silver/oil caps and attenuating with the new Zisters resistors Meniscus carries. This is more high dollar than some are willing to spend for just a little more sparkle above say 8 or 10KHz. The nice thing about higher SPL super tweeters is this gives you plenty of different ways to play around with X/O freq. and slope, attenuation, etc. to achieve that "perfect blend". You can always try the Fostex FT17H as a starting point; they go for under $50 US and do add a nice high end for the money.
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