>>> In my opinion, it's worth getting another more capable amp, and have stereo subs...
That's a valid opinion. If i had the money i would do that. When i got the Alpha 15's (rated at 95 or 97db per watt) i did not know that in reality they need power to sound their best. Mono below 200hz is fine tho, imo. The Dayton amp is very flexible and suits the purpose. I am going to find out if i can daisy chain them to power the woofers individually. Maybe that would work and make them stereo subs?
You can daisy chain one Dayton 150 into the Dayton T-amp and power subs and efficient full range drivers really nicely. If i did not already own my tube gear i would have saved all that money and done it that way.
Zilla
That's a valid opinion. If i had the money i would do that. When i got the Alpha 15's (rated at 95 or 97db per watt) i did not know that in reality they need power to sound their best. Mono below 200hz is fine tho, imo. The Dayton amp is very flexible and suits the purpose. I am going to find out if i can daisy chain them to power the woofers individually. Maybe that would work and make them stereo subs?
You can daisy chain one Dayton 150 into the Dayton T-amp and power subs and efficient full range drivers really nicely. If i did not already own my tube gear i would have saved all that money and done it that way.
Zilla
In my opinion, it's worth getting another more capable amp, and have stereo subs...
I have a more capable amp, but only have one 10" woofer, a Dayton reference series. So I need another, or I go with one.
Two, no three, ok, four questions:
1. Is the Dayton reference 10" decent? ie. worth buying another at $125 to make stereo subs, or should I think of something else? (there is a guy selling a Gershman 10" pair at a reasonable price, but I don't know much about those proprietary woofers, no published data....)
2. I may choose to add tweeters, depending on the midranges I test out. In an open baffle like the one Zilla shows, do I need to worry about time alignment? I always see the tweeter mounted in the same plane as the front of the midrange in these designs. Shouldn't it be back in the plane of the mid motor? (Zilla's super tweeter horn, probably are...).
3. If I do tweeters, I could do front and rear facing (I have 4) but am a little confused how to do this, parallel, reverse phase? Also where to mount in relation to mid, ie. time alignment.
4. Why do I keep adding on projects before finishing older ones....?
Overall plan is OB with Jordan JX92S (no tweeter, probably) adaptable to try the 8"ers I have around, Hemp FR 8.0 and Visiton B200, which will likely benefit from the tweeter.
thanks!
jrenkin - I can't answer all your questions, but if you get the answer to number 4, please PM me. I need to know that one too. As to time aligning the tweets, I think in these "supertweeter above fullrange" apps its unlikely to matter as long as they're close. Are you going to be able to align it to the nearest millimeter? Because at those frequencies thats what it would take. Fortunately few of us hear very well in that range - the whole point of crossing over high.
Zilla - continuing to follow your DIY career with great interest. I'm currently using a pair of sealed pro audio 18" woofers under my TB 1808s. I have another experiment I'm planning with the 1808s - I'll post once I try it out. I'm using a Peavey class D amp to power the subs, and my Golden Tube Audio tube amp for the 1808s, which works fine except I'm having some hum issues.
Zilla - continuing to follow your DIY career with great interest. I'm currently using a pair of sealed pro audio 18" woofers under my TB 1808s. I have another experiment I'm planning with the 1808s - I'll post once I try it out. I'm using a Peavey class D amp to power the subs, and my Golden Tube Audio tube amp for the 1808s, which works fine except I'm having some hum issues.
Agreed, when you start crossing at above 20kHz (1.7cm wavelength?), mostly because I can't hear anything up there anyway.
However, I am thinking more of "high normal" tweeter ranges, maybe 8kHz - 10kHz, potentially as low as 6kHz depending on what works best. so that is where i seek advice.
Hi,
My opinion is not to mess up with tweeters, but get a better fullrange speaker (like Jordan 92) and use it without tweeter. In fact, OB is like a can of worms, and the less cans you open, the better. In other words, even though they look simple, there's a lot going on, and the more drivers you use, the more complicated it gets.
Jeff, if you find out that the fullrange speaker on the baffle sounds too forward, you may try to lift up the crossover frequency, or fiddle with notch filters and/or baffle equalization...(more worms...)
My opinion is not to mess up with tweeters, but get a better fullrange speaker (like Jordan 92) and use it without tweeter. In fact, OB is like a can of worms, and the less cans you open, the better. In other words, even though they look simple, there's a lot going on, and the more drivers you use, the more complicated it gets.
Jeff, if you find out that the fullrange speaker on the baffle sounds too forward, you may try to lift up the crossover frequency, or fiddle with notch filters and/or baffle equalization...(more worms...)
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