Zootalaws,
You need to convince your better half to approve of the Alpairs (Alp 7.3) - I am guessing that the speakers will be used for a long time - so the additional initial outlay is likely to be well worth it.
The FH3 play nicely with the CHR drivers, but the Alpairs take it up a level.
Your off-cut 18mm pieces should be large enough to fashion the front baffles from? Rest should be fine with 15mm ply.
You need to convince your better half to approve of the Alpairs (Alp 7.3) - I am guessing that the speakers will be used for a long time - so the additional initial outlay is likely to be well worth it.
The FH3 play nicely with the CHR drivers, but the Alpairs take it up a level.
Your off-cut 18mm pieces should be large enough to fashion the front baffles from? Rest should be fine with 15mm ply.
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It's the timing...
We are saving to buy another property and I have a budget of $150/month for toys.
I can't, in all honesty, go above that. To do so would be going back on our planning and agreements.
As it stands with current planning, we can deposit in 12 months, freehold in 5 years, so it's worth the sacrifice.
I will probably get some Alpairs later on, and repurpose the CHRs to a bookshelf or something.
We are saving to buy another property and I have a budget of $150/month for toys.
I can't, in all honesty, go above that. To do so would be going back on our planning and agreements.
As it stands with current planning, we can deposit in 12 months, freehold in 5 years, so it's worth the sacrifice.
I will probably get some Alpairs later on, and repurpose the CHRs to a bookshelf or something.
Another trick that's frequently used is to laminate an extra layer of material to the upper section of the baffle on which the driver is installed. In the case of using the A7.3, which as Zia notes is not just a "little better" than the CHR70.3, the total thickness required in that section of the baffle is at least 18mm if not using the extra bezel ring, or 21mm if using it.
We happen to not use the extra rings on any models where they're optional, but others do.
Note also that even without the extra ring, the diameter of through hole and diameter / depth of rebate for flush mounting on the CHR and A7 series frames are different, so while both drivers may work in the FH3, they're not an easy direct drop in replacement. The solution for that is to fabricate with small removable mounting plates for each different driver model. We've done this several times - in fact three of our current pairs of demos are fitted with these to allow us fairly quick comparisons of drivers.
and, no we all don't look alike - some of us are even uglier in the flesh than our posted personas - note the lack of facebook pages. My own coping mechanism for that is to try to keep a sense of humor, and always laff at my own witticisms, as few others will.
We happen to not use the extra rings on any models where they're optional, but others do.
Note also that even without the extra ring, the diameter of through hole and diameter / depth of rebate for flush mounting on the CHR and A7 series frames are different, so while both drivers may work in the FH3, they're not an easy direct drop in replacement. The solution for that is to fabricate with small removable mounting plates for each different driver model. We've done this several times - in fact three of our current pairs of demos are fitted with these to allow us fairly quick comparisons of drivers.
and, no we all don't look alike - some of us are even uglier in the flesh than our posted personas - note the lack of facebook pages.
My own coping mechanism for that is to try to keep a sense of humor, and always laff at my own witticisms, as few others will.Is that on the outside or the inside of the baffle, Chris? If it's ok to mount the drivers outboard on a 18mm shim, I would just make up a nice hardwood plate which will allow me to change the driver by changing the plate. For my 'furniture' making I have some nice recessed M5 nuts which could be put to good use for such a purpose.
And I will laff at you, if it helps
And I will laff at you, if it helps
I'd love to find a source for 35mm long M5 bolts & treaded inserts... they were quite elusive last i went searching. Something with a wide low profile head would be perfect.
That supraBaffle idea is fine, but i would set it up so that the edges are continuous with the side & top of the cabinet
In the middle 1 of ours with removable sB (and MOAP drivers)
dave
Thanks Dave.
As to inserts, I've used these: 100pcs/lot M5*10 M5X10mm Flanged Hex Drive Threaded Insert for Wood screw furniture hardware-in Threaded Insert from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
But they are more for chipboard/MDF, you can screw them in with a hex key.
Now I use these: 100pcs Silver Furniture M5 Threaded Rivet Nut Flat Head Lightweight-in Rivets from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Drill out 6mm glue and hammer home with a mallet. Solid!
There's also these, which I have used and work well - I always glue them: Zinc plated zinc alloy screw nut in furniture(NZ1212)-in Nuts from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
As to bolts, I use J&G a lot - they can usually find what I need - they have a low-profile M5 in 30mm, no doubt they can locate a 35mm variant - they have a lot of lines, not everything ends up on the web: M5 x 30 DIN7984 Hexagon socket thin / Low / short cheese head cap screws 200 pieces-in Screws from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Don't believe their per-unit pricing - everything is negotiable. I usually give them a shopping list and then haggle over final price and freight. I'm miserably tight with a dollar and usually end up satisfied with the deal
I have found (from years of buying from China) that getting one guy to source is better than buying from multiple outlets. It's always a good idea to give him the chance to fulfill all your hardware supplies. If they can't get it, they will quickly tell you - not leave you hanging.The other thing to do is to let them know what quality you are looking for - if you care about quality, tell them. If it's just a basic item, don't worry - but be prepared for a few faults (with screws, I am particular and prefer anodised and stainless and am happy to pay 30c ea to get good ones).
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M5 might be more than essential to this particular task - the Rampa (SK, I think) units used on the SB outfitted FH3 in Dave's photo are M4, which happens to be very commonly used in a lot of furniture hardware. Hereabouts it's almost as common as 8/32 thread on cabinet pulls, etc, and easily sourced in a range of lengths and head styles / finishes.
I find China is about like Alice's Restaurant in this regard - you can get anything you want, you just need to know what it is and communicate that need to a reliable partner.
I spent a lot of money ($5.95 ea) this year on 40 wheel/bearing/bolt/washer sub-assemblies from Michigan. When they arrived, on the back of some expensive shipping options, I found all the components were made in China. I recently ordered enough of the components to make 80 assemblies for around $2 each, with minimal shipping charges.
A long time ago I gave up on insisting that US-made, EU-made was always going to be superior to anything made in China. It is, sometimes, but for a lot of stuff, that 'US-made' product is full of Chinese components. That being said, when I am getting stuff machined, I have not had a good return from the East and prefer my craftsmen to be accurate to a fault
I spent a lot of money ($5.95 ea) this year on 40 wheel/bearing/bolt/washer sub-assemblies from Michigan. When they arrived, on the back of some expensive shipping options, I found all the components were made in China. I recently ordered enough of the components to make 80 assemblies for around $2 each, with minimal shipping charges.
A long time ago I gave up on insisting that US-made, EU-made was always going to be superior to anything made in China. It is, sometimes, but for a lot of stuff, that 'US-made' product is full of Chinese components. That being said, when I am getting stuff machined, I have not had a good return from the East and prefer my craftsmen to be accurate to a fault
A little hard to tell species from photos (not my strongest skill at best of times), but fairly standard 6 or 8/4" raw planks from which I'd guess Evan will mill / square up to rough working thickness, glue up for slabs, and finish to final working thickness. Such prep time is only one of the fun parts of working with solid material that sets a journeyman joiner apart from the rest of us .
Evan - maple?
Evan - maple?
The TPA3116 class D is ideal to power the FH3 regardless of the driver used.
It sounds far better than any of the many t-amps I've owned.
Add a tube preamp and it competes with many SET amps.
Best part is they can cost as little as $12 plus a lap top power brick.
In my picture I'm using a $35 Astron ham radio linear PS.