Frugel-Horn Mk3 Builds & Build Questions

Sounds like you need more damping....temporarily you can pull them out from the wall. bass will still be fat but some of the boom should go away.

dave



Particularly the left side that is tight into the corner. I can see that the door on the right side constricts placement - does the room allow for alternate placement, perhaps with some toe-in?

It's been our experience so far that the A7 needs far less horn lift in the bottom octaves than the FE126E.
 
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see page 2,post 15 for 18mm front & side elevation, i had to draw my own cut sheet for the nominal 18mm (17.4 mm ply) i used
simon

cut plan for 5x5ft Baltic birch on page 7 of

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/beta/FH-Mk3-betaDoc-251010.pdf

Note as mentioned in one of several threads, this is a very tight cut plan. I'd fabricated this pair from offcuts from other projects, so only drew this plan up after the fact. The side and front panels are laid out for maintaining grain direction if material is not to be post veneered or p-lamed.
 
Some random thoughts:

It seems to me that stuffing the horn is done to A) reduce ripple, B) reduce bass.

Given that the Alpair 7 needs quite a bit of stuffing to reduce the bass, would it make sense to stuff enough to manage ripple, and then use EQ to reduce the bass? The desired positive effect would be to minimize cone excursion - does that make sense? I.e. "overgaining" the bass in the horn, given a certain amount of excursion, and then taking the output down by altering the input signal. Could this help with power handling, excursion, and dynamics?
 
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Regarding joints - I built my Needles just by gluing together flat pieces of wood. No reinforcement of joints. Are the Frugel-Horn mark-threes built with more complex joint work?

I wondered about that too. Butt joints work fine. Take a couple scraps and butt joint them with yellow carpenters glue over night. In the morning try breaking them apart ( you won't be able to ). Then consider the glued area of your build.
 
I wondered about that too. Butt joints work fine. Take a couple scraps and butt joint them with yellow carpenters glue over night. In the morning try breaking them apart ( you won't be able to ). Then consider the glued area of your build.

I know what would happen - the wood breaks before the glue does :)

Got it. Thanks guys!


well, of course even today's "miracle" wood adhesives need a pair of decent clean mating surfaces for maximum strength bond