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#1001 |
diyAudio Member
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Googling "Felt insulation" can also throw up some options...
Architectural/furniture felt, Eco-Felt, Tuf-Felt, pool table felt and more by Sutherland Felt Company - Detroit area, Michigan |
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#1002 |
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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__________________
Stay safe. Stay home. Respect the 2m bubble. |
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#1003 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NYC
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I've found lots of options online, but I'll check around Brooklyn tomorrow while the glue dries. There has to be a carpet/flooring store somewhere that has it. In fact, I should check the shop that I bought the wood at 5 years ago.
In the meantime just having one fully built speaker is a tease. I started the glue up on the other tonight, and will have it all put together tomorrow, except for the tops. I can't do those until I have the wool, but I may leave them removable for now anyway. |
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#1004 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Columbia, South Carolina
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Quote:
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#1005 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NYC
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I had my first listen to the stereo pair today and was amazed. They have a delicacy that I never hear on my big main speakers. Bass was good, but I still need to completely seal them up. I also haven't had a chance to look for wool felt locally, so maybe I'll just order some. I have stuffing material but haven't done that yet either.
I'm waiting for everyone to leave the living room where they're set up so I can get a better listen. I'll post pics when I am truly done, I still have some touch up work to make them look finished, but not much really. Mostly it is the edges of the panels on the top. The wood flooring does not have neat looking edges. I hid the side edges by chamfering the front and sides together, which worked pretty well. The plan is to use some leftover pieces and take the top hardwood layer and use it to hide the top. We're only talking about 3 strips of 5/8"x6.5"x1/8" material for each speaker. Last edited by zacster; 4th January 2015 at 01:43 AM. |
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#1006 |
diyAudio Member
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Hello Zac,
I often think they are more than the sum of their parts, one of those lucky accidents of design that occurs from time to time. Cheers - Jim
__________________
Frugal Horn Mk3s Simple illustrated build, Class D XH-M590 TPA3116D2, Evaluation 3116 vs 3886: https://fh3classd.blogspot.com/ |
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#1007 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Faringdon, Oxfordshire
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This'll seem a silly question to the experienced, but better safe than sorry ...
We are just about to fit the Alpair 7 drivers. There are a pair of three components in the box, excluding the screws. Am I right in concluding that all three parts are on the outside of the cabinet? i.e. Gasket sticky side the the wood, then driver with the bezel (maybe not correct terminology) on the outside? |
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#1008 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Hinton, Northants
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I understand that the gasket should be stuck to the rear of the driver bezel. If the secondary bezel is to be fitted and if the rebate is cut to take the secondary bezel, then it should be glued to the driver bezel. This is mentioned somewhere in this thread, try searching with epoxy and bezel for the relevant posts.
See you back in the other place...... |
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#1009 |
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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The gasket gets stick to the back of the driver bezel.
dave
__________________
Stay safe. Stay home. Respect the 2m bubble. |
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#1010 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Faringdon, Oxfordshire
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Thanks Ian and Dave. So, if I understand you both correctly, I remove the 3M labelled paper to reveal a sticky side to the rubber gasket. Sticky side to the rear of the driver meaning that the contact with the recess in the baffle is non-sticky rubber to wood.
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