If cutout is precise and not rebated for flush mount, yes it would "drop in" . However the round flange of the CHR is not wide enough to reach holes drilled for the pincushion shaped frame of any of the Fostex drivers of this size. You could of course fill the screw holes with dowels or wood filler. The other big "but" is difference in sensitivity. The smoother FR and deeper LF extension of the Mark Audio driver aside, there's no getting around the substantial difference in sensitivity (well over 6dB). Which brings us to the next question:
What 2A3 amp do you have that delivers 6 watts (or is that both channels?)
The approx 3watts I'm getting from my Bottlehead Paramours or DIY class A EL84 P/P would certainly be adequate for FE126E, and quite acceptable for FE127E and dual driver EL70, but could be borderline in terms of dynamics and bass impact with single CHR70. Only your ears can answer that one
That makes more sense, my earlier recommendations for tube amp "kits" still apply - I've heard/owned more than a few DHTs, but am still a big fan of the still relatively affordable and widely available EL84/6BQ5 family. Of course there are lots of other options, including some rather reasonably priced commercial products - Jolida FX10, Shuguang I-12, etc., - which are inexpensive enough to be modified / tarted up with tube rolling / parts upgrades, and other posters will have their own suggestions / favorites.
Rather like with (building) speakers - unless you have opportunity to hear the exact model under discussion, preferably in your own or very familiar venue, any decision based on recommendations or printed reviews alone is a big leap of faith. Of many such I've made in the past 10yrs or so, only a couple have been major disappointments, and aside from financial loss on resale / trade etc., (always part of the learning curve), none unqualified disasters.
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What dimension(s) were changed to compensate for the double-thickness material in the image above?
Just a slightly deeper cabinet? I'm assuming the angle remained the same.
*edit: whoops, what image above... Original choke implementation post
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Yes, the angles remain the same ( 5dg).
What we finally ended with for the flat pak production was per attached.
By using 1/2" roundover router bit on the adjoining ends of internal divider and rear panel, the height of angle cut is substantially reduced, and the need to hand cut sharp corners in CNC routed dadoes was eliminated. I cut the rear panels with tenoning jig on table saw with blade set to 5dg angle, but there are certainly other methods to remove the small amount of material.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for that. Nice and simple solution.
I'd love to make a pair of these but the cost of good ply here is rather prohibitive as the only source of void free material I've traced so far (locally) is marine or aircraft grade ply.
Good luck to those who're taking the plunge though!
Thanks for that. Nice and simple solution.
I'd love to make a pair of these but the cost of good ply here is rather prohibitive as the only source of void free material I've traced so far (locally) is marine or aircraft grade ply.
Good luck to those who're taking the plunge though!
you could always try particle board - sonically preferable to MDF, but of course not as easy to paint
Chipboard wont degrade the SQ too much? If that is the case then I'd build them. Painting wouldn't be a problem as the'll be veneered 
I've got some lovely jarrah leaves in the shed but that wont suit a black EL70 as much as the off-white/beige of the CHP's!
Come to think of it, I'd get to use my nice new plane on the shooting board. You may know of the make, Veritas Lovely piece of kit and half as expensive for a tenth less tool than Lie-Nielson!
I've got some lovely jarrah leaves in the shed but that wont suit a black EL70 as much as the off-white/beige of the CHP's!Come to think of it, I'd get to use my nice new plane on the shooting board. You may know of the make, Veritas
Lovely piece of kit and half as expensive for a tenth less tool than Lie-Nielson!Chipboard wont degrade the SQ too much? If that is the case then I'd build them. Painting wouldn't be a problem as the'll be veneered
Come to think of it, I'd get to use my nice new plane on the shooting board. You may know of the make, Veritas
From the few experiments I've made, the particle or chip board definitely sounds "faster / more musical" than MDF.
Some folks have even used OSB - but I've pretty sure that none of the projects I've heard were with that.
The Veritas certainly are gorgeously enough made for most hackers - I'd be afraid to pick up a Lie Nielsen tool.
Thanks for your suggestions Chris. Sometimes you have to make a leap of faith and go with the suggestions. Time to keep an eye on AudiogoN listings. Looks like I need around 15W/channel, Triode Electronics Dyna ST35 would fit the bill. Might make a wooden base to match my Bottlehead Crack.
Regards
Levent
Regards
Levent
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
for me it's not just about the sound. If I'm going to the effort of building a speaker I want to be able to look at it in the future and feel good about the construction. I personally would find it more satisfying to have used good quality ply. I think it's a better quality material all round.
Hi Dave, how can one order a flat pak from this initial run? Thanks in advance!
Don (aka Doorman), has been using CHR-Ken with 3.5W. Keep in mind CHR is like an entry drug. Don Just picked up A10eN,
dave
Yes, my long suffering wife has, on occasion, discreetly closed a door or two at the other end of the house, finding the volume a bit much!!
3> wpc surprisingly drives the CHR-70's to very satisfying levels pour moi.
Sawdust is flying as we speak---- these:
need a good home!Dave's cone treatment must be seen and heard to be appreciated-- time for a fix!
Don