Yup, you are correct, I misremembered; it is of course the enabled FE126 that I bought from Dave at the end of 2011.
Power will likely be an issue for me since my single-ended tube amp only outputs around 8 Watts. I'd be willing to try it though. If they end up not working, I have a good reason to build another tube amp with a bit more power (not that what I have isn't 'loud' enough).
Thanks for your input, Chris & Dave
This is a link to the drivers I had ordered at the time, so it should be the FE126eN, enabled by planet10: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...l-vancouver-island-diyfest-2010-a-fe126en-jpg
Power will likely be an issue for me since my single-ended tube amp only outputs around 8 Watts. I'd be willing to try it though. If they end up not working, I have a good reason to build another tube amp with a bit more power (not that what I have isn't 'loud' enough).
Thanks for your input, Chris & Dave
This is a link to the drivers I had ordered at the time, so it should be the FE126eN, enabled by planet10: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...l-vancouver-island-diyfest-2010-a-fe126en-jpg
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Do I remember right that the Alpair requires a baffle to be added? Not a problem, just trying to remember what I read 7 years ago...
While 8 watts is officially below the recommended power recommended, some people are happy with their 2A3 SE & FH3/A7.3. As important as actual measured power is how well the amp clips… and SE tube amps typically have good clipping behaviour.
I am currently using Pass’ ACA amp, even with the low voltage PS and 5w rated power i had to really crank things to push it into audiable clipping.
If replacing the FE126 with A7 one needs to do some work.
With thru-holes basically the same (A7 marginally larger) that is not a problem, but the A7 needs a much deeper rebate and that rebate doesn’t quite cover up the ears of the FE126 rebate. One can rotate the A7 screw holes such that one of them is at the top and not run into issues with the FE126 holes.
Blue is A7 thru-hole, red is FE126.
So it can be done, but as i often hear, it is sometimes easier to start from scratch, in this case reaming out the existing baffle and adding a supraBaffle — we now lean to a simple one the width of the baffle.
dave
Attachments
Thank you for this detailed response, Dave. I may just make two baffles and enlarge the existing cutout per the plans.
I have a KT-88 and an EL-34 version of my SE amp and they both do pretty well with some pretty inefficient commercial speakers I have, so I think it should be OK for what I need.
Otherwise, it's a case of "I think we're gonna need a bigger amp...."
I think this (and our parallel email exchange) settles this. I am going to give the Alpairs a try.
Thanks again!
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Might be worth investigating anticipated lead time on availability of the new A7MS - if for no other reason than its much thinner mounting frame not requiring major reworking of baffles for rebating.
After hearing the first of Mark’s drivers with the mono-suspension (A5.2), I can’t wait to put my ears on either of the new models - but by that time won’t likely be in a position to build anything new.
After hearing the first of Mark’s drivers with the mono-suspension (A5.2), I can’t wait to put my ears on either of the new models - but by that time won’t likely be in a position to build anything new.
Ha, yeah, the bird thing. I am in no rush at all, but once I decide to do something, there's no holding back.
I decided to get a pair of the Alpair 7.3 from Dave, mostly because a lot of folks seem to be happy with them, secondly because they are in stock and available.
I will work up the CAD for a replaceable baffle so I can cut them on the CNC and modify my cabinets accordingly. That way I can easily try other drivers in the future, if there will be a good reason to do so.
The only thing I am not too exited about is the changed aesthetics with the baffle on, because these things are so beautiful as they are. Maybe a full-length baffle will have to be tried...
Anyway, hope everyone has a great weekend!
I think Dave still has a couple of pairs of supra baffle "kits" for the A7.3 still available - originally intended to use with front panels machined with M4 threaded inserts. They were cut wider than the 170mm enclosure, and beveled to mate with short panels that wrapped around the sides. A picture would explain it all.
Thanks, Chris. I have seen those in the PDF with the plans. Not a big fan of how those look. Unless there is a real good reason acoustically, I'll probably opt for a simpler baffle to accommodate the new driver. Obviously, I have no clue how the shape of the baffle will affect the sound, so I am completely open to being educated.
Fair enough. Actually there’s probably no objectively definable acoustic reason why they’d need to extend past the stock width of 170mm - “we” just thought it might just add an extra aesthetic fillip to the look. The parts on hand are already machined for A7.3 rebate, beveled on rear side of opening, and pilot holes drilled and pre-tapped for the MA supplied mounting screws - they could easily be trimmed to standard width, in less time than it takes to read this post.
Hello again,
I've cut all my wooden pieces now . Just ordered the contacts for the wires, going to order some stuffing for the speaker tonight. Looking at glue right now. I read that I should use the "yellow wood glue"/carpenters glue. I'm not really sure what is defined as "yellow" just looking at the bottle.
I've found a site which has the Titebond glues. Will any of these work?
Titebond Original
Titebond II Ultimate
Titebond III Ultimate (Tralim Titebond III Ultimate; 948 ml - Tite_1415 - Lim och klister - Fastelement) Here you can see the bottle
I've cut all my wooden pieces now
. Just ordered the contacts for the wires, going to order some stuffing for the speaker tonight. Looking at glue right now. I read that I should use the "yellow wood glue"/carpenters glue. I'm not really sure what is defined as "yellow" just looking at the bottle. I've found a site which has the Titebond glues. Will any of these work?
Titebond Original
Titebond II Ultimate
Titebond III Ultimate (Tralim Titebond III Ultimate; 948 ml - Tite_1415 - Lim och klister - Fastelement) Here you can see the bottle
Hello again,
I've cut all my wooden pieces now
I've found a site which has the Titebond glues. Will any of these work?
Titebond Original
Titebond II Ultimate
Titebond III Ultimate (Tralim Titebond III Ultimate; 948 ml - Tite_1415 - Lim och klister - Fastelement) Here you can see the bottle
I have used Casco Trälim for my speakers. You should be able to find it pretty much anywhere.
I've been looking for the damping material. The fluffy stuffing is pretty easy to find. Not sure about the felt though. The closests I've come to find what is used in the Assembly thread (Frugel-Horn Mk3 Flat-Pak Mock Assembly Instructions) is MDS FIBREX-HDS - Dampmaterial - MDS - Autohifi or https://www.ljudia.se/produkter/tillbehor-bygg-sjalv/dampmaterial/zachry-q12-dampull.
When I search for damping material it mostly seems to be the kind which is on the outside of the cabinets. Got some guidance of what I should try to look for?
When I search for damping material it mostly seems to be the kind which is on the outside of the cabinets. Got some guidance of what I should try to look for?
I used something similar looking from Biltema.
Ljudisoleringsfilt - Biltema.se
Used dubble layers, glued with some Karlsons klister.
The box I glued together with Cascol Trälim Inne, a PVA (Polyvinylacetat) glue.
Maybe I missed it, but were any XL's built with the larger Mark Audio drivers? I was kicking around the idea of doing the Pluvia Eleven or Alpair 10.3. I had the Alpair 12 before in SuperPensil's and REALLY liked them but have since sold them off to a local tube head that wanted to try them out. I thought the slightly smaller Pluvia or 10.3 might give a little better refinement up top without sacrificing too much on the bottom end VS the 12's in the SuperPensils.
Thoughts??
Scott
Thoughts??
Scott