You could probably get by with something smaller than a 15" in a simple sealed box. Depending on brands with landed cost to your door that is most comfortable to your budget, could be something like a Dayton 10", Peerless, etc, etc
If doing so, I'd definitely suggest effecting a high-pass on the Fostex, anywhere between 80-100Hz. Some plate amps with high level/speaker inputs will have a very rudimentary filter on the speaker out terminals.
If doing so, I'd definitely suggest effecting a high-pass on the Fostex, anywhere between 80-100Hz. Some plate amps with high level/speaker inputs will have a very rudimentary filter on the speaker out terminals.
So I might be being a bit keen... I have just built a pair of Mk IIIs with MA Alpair 7p drivers. These have done a gentle 100hrs on light classical music on the bench and I have now transferred them over to the cabinets.
Although a bit of a bass junkie, car audio and surround sound I really like the speed and tightness of what there is. However I'm probably showing up the flaws in the rest of my system but I'm finding them quite fatiguing with certain tracks. They can be quite shrill in the middle to high ends. This is to the extent that I have to turn them down but then miss out on other subtle details. Can this be tempered? Or am I just too keen and need to let the drivers run in some more?
Although a bit of a bass junkie, car audio and surround sound I really like the speed and tightness of what there is. However I'm probably showing up the flaws in the rest of my system but I'm finding them quite fatiguing with certain tracks. They can be quite shrill in the middle to high ends. This is to the extent that I have to turn them down but then miss out on other subtle details. Can this be tempered? Or am I just too keen and need to let the drivers run in some more?
Hi garym999,
Have no experience with the Alpair 7P personally, but have read that the driver has a flavor/sound that not all folks prefer. The Alpair 7.3 metal has more fans among Mark Audio driver owners.
If I am not wrong you are using the Mod-86 which is a revealing and neutral amp, and it will not hide any warts in your music/reproduction chain.
Any particular genre you are referring to? Usually small wide-band/full-range drivers do not do well with heavier rock genres.
Have no experience with the Alpair 7P personally, but have read that the driver has a flavor/sound that not all folks prefer. The Alpair 7.3 metal has more fans among Mark Audio driver owners.
If I am not wrong you are using the Mod-86 which is a revealing and neutral amp, and it will not hide any warts in your music/reproduction chain.
Any particular genre you are referring to? Usually small wide-band/full-range drivers do not do well with heavier rock genres.
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I found out the hard way that you'll get that if you don't give the back side of the driver some breathing room. "Rebating" the back side of the baffle so the driver can breath is extremely important. When I built my Frugalhorns with the A7.3, I didn't give enough breathing room for the driver. It sounded like it was being shot through a tunnel. I removed the baffle and provided a lot more relief and the difference was night and day.
Mike
Mike
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Hmm... the front of the Alpairs, when fitted with the finshing rings are flush with the front of the ply.
The rear has not been cut back at all and from a mechanical perspective I would not want to trim it to much. I guess I have the option of a supra baffle although I have no idea what diffeence this would make.
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Frustrating because I had considered doing this during the build but forgot.
Do you really think it will make a huge difference?
I have just popped the drivers and if you take account of the depth of the wood you are only left with about 10mm of gap around the perimeter. No way I,ll get the router in there now. I wonder if I could dremel it?
Do you really think it will make a huge difference?
I have just popped the drivers and if you take account of the depth of the wood you are only left with about 10mm of gap around the perimeter. No way I,ll get the router in there now. I wonder if I could dremel it?
I had once faced he same problem where I forgot to chamfer the back of the panel around the driver mount.
It was a pair of Pensils, same cutout as for A7.
I managed to take a rasp to it and chamfer it fom the outside.
Not an easy task by a long shot, but definitely can be done. Just go slow and make sure you protect the front with a thick cloth if it has already been painted or veneered.
And yes, it is definitely worth the effort
It was a pair of Pensils, same cutout as for A7.
I managed to take a rasp to it and chamfer it fom the outside.
Not an easy task by a long shot, but definitely can be done. Just go slow and make sure you protect the front with a thick cloth if it has already been painted or veneered.
And yes, it is definitely worth the effort
I've used a Dremmel in the past as well as a rasp. Kind of a pain, but from my experience it's the difference between an unlistenable speaker and a stellar speaker. Without a decent rebate, all the energy gets "clogged" and the sound quality drops to a point the speaker is not worth using. It's one if those small but absolutely necessary aspects of a speaker build with drivers mounted to the front of the baffle.
Mike
Mike
I'm sure it says
Anyway was not the truma I thought it was going to be. Cut out a working surface out of scrap MDF then set my jigsaw to 45deg and gingerly cut between the fixings. Not perfect but fairly quick.
Now back to listening
in your signature
Anyway was not the truma I thought it was going to be. Cut out a working surface out of scrap MDF then set my jigsaw to 45deg and gingerly cut between the fixings. Not perfect but fairly quick.
Now back to listening
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