Frugel-Horn Mk3

[planet10]

Originally Posted by daicymraeg

I understand the Pensil 11 and Horn XL use 6.5” drivers and the Horn Mk3 uses a 4” driver.

P11 is a 6” driver. FHXL was designed with specific attention to the 5.25” A10x.

FH3 typically has a 4” - 4.5” driver. but we have squeezed a 5.25” in. Probably better in FHXL.

FHXL and Pensil are both good, designed by Scott. The FHXL has greater bass gain, goes marginally lower, and is a more interesting shape. Pensil has a more compact footprint.

If you are working with one of Stefan’s flat-paks, the difference in assembly complexity is minimal. The FHXL does have fewer bits to it (largely due to the frame needed at the back to screw the back on).

dave

[planet10]

As had been mentioned, the FH3 probably doesn’t move enuff air to satisfy many of the genres you listen too.

If you need bonkers levels, and bass, you can add the (mostly undrawn at this point) the deflector/stealth woofer to the build.

This is exactly the 2-way approach i would take, and you only need to do step 2 if step 1 (FHXL or Pensil) satisfies your needs.

What kind of amplifer do you have?

dave

[daicymraeg]

Thanks for everyones replies. Its very helpful.

I’m not too concerned about having a lot of bass because I have neighbours which I don’t want to disturb too much. Investing in a sub to use during appropriate times in the day will suit me more and can be an option further down the line.

In terms of amps I have a Cambridge Audio Azur integrated which outputs 50w per channel. This is about 15 years old. However this is the start of building a new system and I understand its best to start with the speakers first and then find an amp to match the speaker. I don’t crank my amp too high…..I’d guess about 65 to 70db listening levels.

I’m drawn to the Frugel kits because of the cabinet quality being 18mm birch ply, the cnc machining and ease of construction for a non-woodworker like me. And the quality full range driver means the absence of a crossover. Off the shelf speakers seem to offer much less than this by the time everyone in the supply chain has taken their cut.

I think I’m leaning towards the Pensil 11 because of the smaller footprint.

[chrisb]

The Cambridge amp might be more than sufficient in terms of power and sonic quality, and unless it lacks features that you want/need in your “new” system immediately, it’d be the last component I’d think about updating. For me source(s) and upstream signal processing would be higher on that priority list - but of course that’s a whole ‘nother can of worms.

Not surprisingly to anyone familiar with my backstory, I’m a fan of the FH family, but have found the Pensils to be more practical for my particular domestic situation. My current multichannel system has incorporated A10.3s going on 3 years now, and I’m quite happy with them - no doubt the 11s would deliver at least as well.

[planet10]

...Cambridge Audio Azur integrated which outputs 50w per channel. This is about 15 years old...

Certainly sufficient power. I usually recommend min 10w. Given you ar eplanning on upgrading ikely not cost effective unless you diy. I haven’t heard one but they have good cred.

As Chris suggests next up would likely be source. But everything makes a difference.

dave

[jemraid]

I listen to the (new) Tangerine Dream with my FH3s and CHP70s a wall of sound from 40Hz upwards at concert volume. Really Great!!

Cheers

[edit] 10 Watts Hmmmmmm!!! With the amp at waking the dead volume and a full range wall of electronic music. I connected an ammeter in series with the +V output it registered between 0.2 to 0.4 Amps. At 12v = 4.8 Watts divided by 2 = 2.4 Watts less 10% for efficiency wastage = 2.16 Watts or 1/2 that at 0.2 Amps.