Sachiko Builld Thread

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Is Glue Alone Enough?

Hi Everyone,

My Sachiko is finally here at my house- it looks great, and I hope to listen to it tomorrow.

However, my cabinet maker forgot to put the second thickness of plywood where the speaker is mounted on my Sachiko. He is making a second board to mount the speakers on.

He contends that the board will vibrate if I just glue down the board. The cabinet maker contends that I need to use screws in addition to the glue.

I think that glue should be enough- if nothing else, how about hide glue, do you folks think that will work? If not, is there another alternative that will work better?

Thanks-

Karl
 
Karl,

your cabinet maker might be one of a breed rare nowadays - 100% or nothing. He would probably prefer to laminate the panels before building the box and use his veneer press to get a real fit...you can´t do that to a complete box, the megapounds per sq.in. would flatten your Sachicos to newspaper thickness.
No problem though. Modern PE based glues, unwarped panels, and use 4"x4" hardwood to get even pressure on the whole area instead of only point pressure where the clamps are. Forget about headache, look forward to enjoying music.:happy1:
 
Extra Panel Where Sachiko Drivers Are Attached

What second thickness are you referring to?

Hi Quadtech,

I am going to put two thicknesses of plywood on the panel that holds the driver instead of one. This panel was in the design I gave the cabinet maker.

First, this extra panel gives a bit more support to the weight of the driver (I am using the Fostex FE206ES-R driver that is heavier than the standard FE206 driver).

Additionally, by the extra thickness I am leaving open the possibility of using super heavy and large magnets that might be offered in the future.

Several people have done this on their Sachiko's, with good results in terms of sound, and greater flexibility in terms of future options-

Best regards,

Karl
 
What Are the Alternatives to Poly Ethylene Glue?

Karl,

Modern PE based glues, unwarped panels, and use 4"x4" hardwood to get even pressure on the whole area instead of only point pressure where the clamps are. .:happy1:

What are some good alternatives to Poly Ethylene glue?

Would yellow carpenters glue or Hide Glue work for glueing the second front panel onto my Sachiko's? I am looking for something that is non-toxic, and that I can apply inside the house.

Thanks in advace!

Karl
 
Old fashioned hide glue would work fine, if you want to go to the trouble of cooking some up, and there isn't much advantage unless you just want to get your dog excited. :) WARNING: avoid the ready-to-use bottled 'hide glue'. Unless it is very fresh, there is a substantial chance of glue failure.

Modern PVA (carpenter's glue) does require a lot of clamping pressure, which might be why the cabinet maker suggested screws. A bunch of clamps and cauls (blocks) to distribute the pressure will work fine though.
 
DD lacquer? Not available here, but it's catalyzed urethane apparently. Peroxide bleach is always fun, but harder to find lately. Sounds like a fun party trick. :D:eek: What happens??

The best trick I've done yet is setting my pants on fire while dripping cyanoacrylate 'superglue' into a cracked piece of wood, and not paying attention to the glue dripping out the other side... :rolleyes:
 
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I LOVE my new Sachiko's! / Shellac Finish For Speakers

For the last several days I have fallen completely in love with my Sachiko's. The sound is great from the highs that I can hear to the bass.

The base is not as tight or loud as my CVS sub-woofer, though it is better than any full range speaker I have heard before. Right now, it seems the only real weak area of the speakers, but my drivers are still breaking in. For that matter, my Liang 845-3 is probably still breaking in as well.

I will say that I have some excellent bass, and it seems to extend very deep into the low levels. Right now, it seems the only real weak area of the speakers, but my drivers are still breaking in. For that matter, my Liang 845-3 is probably still breaking in as well.

I am so excited! Every time I listen to these speakers they seem to sound better than the day before.

When I build my next pair of Sachiko's next summer, I am looking at using a de-waxed shellac finish instead of a stain and laquer. I am planning to dissolve the de-waxed shellac in as close as I can get to 100% ethanol alcohol. Denatured ethanol if that is all I can get.

The result should be a non-toxic, fast drying finish that is easy to care for and that looks great. The speakers will be very light in color, to amber colored.

Best wishes to all-

Kalr
 
Karl,

congrats! So the time and money proved to be worth it!

As to denatured alcohol - don´t be afraid. The CH3CH2OH molecule is too small and uncomplicated to be denatured by any affordable way. What you buy is pure spirit, only for tax reasons (bottle of cheap vodka €6, bottle of brennspiritus €.75) they add stuff that makes you puke when you smell, let alone drink, it.

For cleaning purposes, solvent for lacquer etc. industry alcohol is fine.
Reserve 100% medicinal alcohol for making "Bärenfang" - I can give you the receipe.
 
Tang Band W8-1772, or Fostex FE208E-Sigma?

Hi every one-

When I build another Sachiko, which driver would other people in the group recommend- the Tang Band W8-1772, or the Fostex FE208E-Sigma?

I know that both drivers very well regarded for the price, and that the FE206E-Sigma is more costly. Personally, I have not heard either driver.

The Sachiko I have has the Fostex FE206ES-R has an efficiency rating of 98DB per 1 Watt of power. I would love to have very high efficiency rating in the next driver as well, and the FE208E Sigma is a bit more efficient than the Tang Band. I really love the reviews I have read about the W8-1772.

My son is quite fascinated with the Sachiko speaker. He can hear the improvement in the sound quality as each day follows the next. The sound quality is mesmerizing- and he is eager to build it for me- so we shall see how it goes when we have the resources to start this.

Thanks-

Karl
 
Well - telling you brand names won´t help, as Lower Saxony doesn´t have shops in easy reach from Oregon. Bit of experimenting at those prices won´t do murder to your bank account - you´ll do that anyway in order to get exactly the hue you want on the wood you got.
And we even used that stuff to quickdry developed films in the local newspaper´s photo lab, so have no fear.
 
When I build another Sachiko, which driver would other people in the group recommend- the Tang Band W8-1772, or the Fostex FE208E-Sigma?

Well, I didn't design Sachiko for either of them. However, the FE208ESigma is rather closer to the design-driver, so for that reason alone (there are others), it would be my choice rather than the Tang Band. The 208 does need a supertweeter above ~12KHz, as it's a wide-band driver, rather than an FR, but that's no bad thing, as it avoids the problems whizzers entail, and the XO is way up, above our critical hearing BW.
 
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Karl,

congrats! So the time and money proved to be worth it!

As to denatured alcohol - don´t be afraid. The CH3CH2OH molecule is too small and uncomplicated to be denatured by any affordable way. What you buy is pure spirit, only for tax reasons (bottle of cheap vodka €6, bottle of brennspiritus €.75) they add stuff that makes you puke when you smell, let alone drink, it.

For cleaning purposes, solvent for lacquer etc. industry alcohol is fine.
Reserve 100% medicinal alcohol for making "Bärenfang" - I can give you the receipe.

Bärenfang???? I once drank quite a bit of that, in a small nice place called Niemeyers Heidehof, in Garlstorf some 40 km. south of Hamburg. The best schnaps I ever tasted, but I could not find & buy it anywhere......

Could it be the same???
 
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