Do you absolutely need the sensitivity of the Fostex driver?
Maybe a CSS FR125 in a miniOnken? http://planet10-hifi.com/fonken.html
Maybe a CSS FR125 in a miniOnken? http://planet10-hifi.com/fonken.html
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The proportions of the box look very nice, aesthetically pleasing. I prefer this taller shape to the typical desktop options.
I think an additional brace, vertical between front baffle and back, might be worthwhile.
The back of the box is not far from the rear of the driver, with the danger of sound reflections back through the cone - need some good felt lining back there ?
I think an additional brace, vertical between front baffle and back, might be worthwhile.
The back of the box is not far from the rear of the driver, with the danger of sound reflections back through the cone - need some good felt lining back there ?
Thanks. I have to admit, aesthetics is a significant consideration.
I though about that, then I though it was overdoing it. Your probably right. I'll put on in.
This is a concern. I actually drew one on paper where the back of the box sloped out as it went up. That is front to rear 4 inches at bottom and 6 inches at top. Do you think that would make a significant difference?
PS: I've already bought the drivers, thanks. So, driver considerations are moot.
Be warned that you will likely get some colouration from the proximity of the side walls to the driver.
dave
I am worried about that, but since I am not willing to go wider, I'll just have to see what happens. Thanks.
Using a 15" might help, if you can get one into that nicely shaped enclosure...
I don't quite have room for a fifteen but, I was hoping to use a TB W5-1126, in a small tasteful enclosure, of course.
I just can't seem to find one.
Great sounding recommendation, but while not a huge box in the context of larger room/application, at approx 13 liters, either the miniOnken / Fonken Prime would be a bit imposing on an average desk-top.
There are quite a few designs to chose from for small (4 liters or less) enclosures for the most popular Fostex ( FF85K, FE103, FE127) or Mark Audio(Alpair 5 or 6, CHR70) or CSS (FR125/EL70) drivers.
By now, most folks frequenting this forum would know where to find them.
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I don't know, to be honest, but it would possibly spoil the aesthetics - if you have space for a deeper box why not make it deeper all the way from top to bottom and benefit from the larger volume ?
In my last box I not only used some stick-on felt pads stuck all over the back plus some stuffing, but I first glued some semi-random angular pieces of wood to the back of the box so that sound waves from the driver would be scattered rather than reflected straight back. I found that there were always some little bits of wood being produced during the construction process that could be used in this way. It reduces the internal volume though, so an extra inch of depth would be a boon.
That's an interesting idea. I think I'll try that.
I do want to keep the box as small as possible ( but not smaller). I don't really have access to box modeling apps, so I am just going by what I came up with on some online calculators and the advice of folks here.
My search talents are very limited, any chance you could post a link to T/S parameters for the above mentioned driver?
They would be very helpful for any wild a$$ed guess recommendation, or more scientifically modeled enclosure design.
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Whether room boundaries or speaker box, a >12 deg slope is required to effectively reduce 'slap echo', but in such a small cab it doesn't take much damping material to deal with it. If the vent is on the rear behind the driver though, tapering the cab back to it is beneficial as witnessed by some of B&W's designs.
GM
Placement
I have to add a comment to the first picture. This is exactly the picture of how NOT to position these speakers. It kills the imaging, at least the depth.
I've got the best results with leaving abot 2-3" gap between the monitor and each speaker, with the front baffles flash, or slightly behind the plane of the screen. In this position the image is slightly behind the monitor and goes back to the back wall. Very good for movies.
Vadim
I have to add a comment to the first picture. This is exactly the picture of how NOT to position these speakers. It kills the imaging, at least the depth.
I've got the best results with leaving abot 2-3" gap between the monitor and each speaker, with the front baffles flash, or slightly behind the plane of the screen. In this position the image is slightly behind the monitor and goes back to the back wall. Very good for movies.
Vadim
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