the 1808 in a vented box vs. exotic in it's rec. sealed box. that would be a interesting comparison. i like the allure of alnico but don't like that the rising mid-HF will most probably need a correction network vs., the purity of a 1808 - cables - amp.
BTW, i would be in for a madisound group buy of five pairs = 10 drivers@$747each, one pair down four to go. i'd consider driving up from philly to make that comparison but doubt the GB will happen and i'll prob. end up with the TB.
I've seen a vented box developed for the Exotics which were quite simply put, a work of art. I think it was on this site. I'm trying to ignore the lure of the Exotics not entirely due to the expense of the drivers, but my capacity to understand the maths to build an appropriate cabinet. But, anyway, a cabinet for the W8-1808's, vented as stated, what do you think it could look like? And would it be disimilar to a design for the W8- 1772? I ask because I haven't been able to follow a lot of the maths and corresponding values of the thread thus far! Bringing it back to cabinet design might help....then again, it is audio...nothing helps..the illness simply takes further hold!! Isn't it incredible to see a manufactuer develop two similar but disimilar products especially in the Full Range arena? This adds weight to my question....for what was each designed and how best do we use it to get the best from them?
Refards: Dave
Refards: Dave
1808 is a higher Q driver than the 1772, a higher QTS allows for more control of the cone so the driver doesn't require as much help from the cabinet and could be suitable for open baffle. Sensitivity is typically lower with a higher Q and the 1772 is more efficient.
1772 back loaded horn plan, post #180 www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/150267-tang-bang-w8-1772-impressions-18.html this would be a real project to build.
60L 2cubic foot sealed box rec for the Exotic X-1-08 F8 SEAS Exotic X1-08, F8, 8 ohm, 8" Full Range Driver from Madisound you could probably find a prefabricated 60L box for these. building your own wouldn't be all that difficult to do just use the golden ratio for proportions. you could also get a program SPEAKER DESIGN SOFTWARE from Parts Express ship same day and come with 45 day money back guarantee. Free Shipping Available. Order free 10,000 product catalog. or have madisound draw a plan for you.
1772 back loaded horn plan, post #180 www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/150267-tang-bang-w8-1772-impressions-18.html this would be a real project to build.
60L 2cubic foot sealed box rec for the Exotic X-1-08 F8 SEAS Exotic X1-08, F8, 8 ohm, 8" Full Range Driver from Madisound you could probably find a prefabricated 60L box for these. building your own wouldn't be all that difficult to do just use the golden ratio for proportions. you could also get a program SPEAKER DESIGN SOFTWARE from Parts Express ship same day and come with 45 day money back guarantee. Free Shipping Available. Order free 10,000 product catalog. or have madisound draw a plan for you.
mp9,
That is not all try. A very low Q means the driver is already well damped. A higher Q driver needs more control exerted on it.
A higher Q driver is better suited to an OB as far as no EQ is concerned.
A low Q driver needs more help to lift up the bottom to be flat with the midrange. The efficiency thing is related. When developing a low Q driver the available energy (area under the curve) is pushed up into the midrange where efficiency figures are determined. One can think of a higher Q driver as taking some of that midrange energy and pushing it down lower, so that less (or none) help is needed to flatten the driver.
dave
I have been following this discussion as well and have plans to order a set of drivers within a couple of weeks. I spent our time in the blizzard developing an enclosure for the TB W8 1772. It's a BLH and who would expect anything less! Looks like it will be relatively large (16" wide at around 18 deep (maybe, I am still designing)) but provide very flat response with an F3 of 37 Hz. Not that many have cared for my plans in the past but I will post it for those who are interested at least in what I am doing. Hopefully I can get a build going within a month or so.
No, and I think that this would be a misuse of this driver. With any reasonable sized baffle, you will still need a woofer. You are best served by using as small a driver as you get away with as still cross no higher than 300Hz. IMO nothing larger than a 4"er for OB.
Bob
There you have it. The "Blizzard" in honor of the recent storm. I can't wait to build it. It isn't as big as I initially thought it would be. I ended up ditching the fist plan as it was going to be huge. This particular beauty sims very flat and has an F3 of around 42 Hz which is perfect for this particular driver. That's it for now.
I am not familiar with that particular enclosure but to answer your question, no, it is designed with 3/4 inch material in mind. 18mm BB will work fine as the differences are only 4/100 of an inch. The only thing that will have to be paid close attention to is the outside measurements. The rest will be "close enough for guvment work". I do like the idea of dual layer sides however so it will be optional of course to have 1.5 inches worth of material on the sides. I am trying to source some BB now as the 5x5 foot sheets would be the most convenient due to this enclosures size but (I know everyone hates MDF but it is cheap and does quite well if damped properly (I think Bob would agree with this)) MDF and some other forms of PLY as long as they are 11 to 14 ply woods would work well. Hell, I have even built with 7 ply cabinet grade with excellent results. I will make 2 sets of plans, one set with a 5x5 based cut sheet and another with a 4x8 based cut sheet so folks can use whatever they have access to.
Sorry Bob, I didn't mean to hijack the thread. I will start a new thread concerning this build here in the next couple of days as I have more to offer. Thanks to all for putting up with the hijack!
Why double up on the sides if using Baltic Birch which is extremely dense and very stiff?
BTW, I'm in Philly and have been getting amazing $$ on the real McCoy BB from a Wholesale Lumber Yard in S. Jersey. My first order was a pallet load which i specified 6sheets. It was sandwiched between 5x5 scrap wood and a thick cardboard top and sides. very well packed with cardboard corners and steel straps. I would be interested in splitting one, if you need to and are able to come this far north. I paid $36 per 5'x5' sheet, unheard of locally. I could post pix of the flawless end grain and the stamp on each sheet if you don't believe me, just not willing to put the name of the place in the public domain.
BTW, I'm in Philly and have been getting amazing $$ on the real McCoy BB from a Wholesale Lumber Yard in S. Jersey. My first order was a pallet load which i specified 6sheets. It was sandwiched between 5x5 scrap wood and a thick cardboard top and sides. very well packed with cardboard corners and steel straps. I would be interested in splitting one, if you need to and are able to come this far north. I paid $36 per 5'x5' sheet, unheard of locally. I could post pix of the flawless end grain and the stamp on each sheet if you don't believe me, just not willing to put the name of the place in the public domain.
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