Well as most of you know, building two pairs of speakers at once is a lot quicker than building them separately. With that in mind I intend to build my own next pair of speakers along these which are being built for my father.
Here's what I want to build:
A 2" full-range driver in an sealed cab responding to the 100-300Hz area which will be supplemented on the low-end by a small subwoofer a separate cab giving me response down to 40-45Hz. I can't install sketchup on my lappy due to windows sucking so I'll have to illustrate what I mean on the OH's mac when she's not looking.
Here are my two preliminary driver choices:
http://solen.ca/pdf/tangband/w51138sm.pdf
http://solen.ca/pdf/tangband/w2852sh.pdf
It looks like crossing these two over at 400Hz would be good?
I'm thinking both cabs will need to be ported. I'd like front-firing because I don't have much room to space cabs from the wall with.
Here's what I want to build:
A 2" full-range driver in an sealed cab responding to the 100-300Hz area which will be supplemented on the low-end by a small subwoofer a separate cab giving me response down to 40-45Hz. I can't install sketchup on my lappy due to windows sucking so I'll have to illustrate what I mean on the OH's mac when she's not looking.
Here are my two preliminary driver choices:
http://solen.ca/pdf/tangband/w51138sm.pdf
http://solen.ca/pdf/tangband/w2852sh.pdf
It looks like crossing these two over at 400Hz would be good?
I'm thinking both cabs will need to be ported. I'd like front-firing because I don't have much room to space cabs from the wall with.
400hz seems fine.
The "fast" system is gaining popularity.
I suggest you cross the drivers where the baffle step -3db is.
Perhaps have the baffle be 11" wide (f3 = 400hz).
I wouldn't port the 2" driver, seal it for excursion ctrl.
I'd play with a pa active crossover until you are sure of crossover points and levels at the volume you listen at. And a 24db will keep the .2" driver cleaner or less harsh
I'm entertaining the w2-803sm for a small 4 unit mini array crossed at 200hz.
I like 200hz@24db LR crossover point. To me it keeps the mids in the full range driver.
A 6.5" is the cone area I like / need (dual 4" drivers). I tend to occasionall listen louder for movies.
Norman
The "fast" system is gaining popularity.
I suggest you cross the drivers where the baffle step -3db is.
Perhaps have the baffle be 11" wide (f3 = 400hz).
I wouldn't port the 2" driver, seal it for excursion ctrl.
I'd play with a pa active crossover until you are sure of crossover points and levels at the volume you listen at. And a 24db will keep the .2" driver cleaner or less harsh
I'm entertaining the w2-803sm for a small 4 unit mini array crossed at 200hz.
I like 200hz@24db LR crossover point. To me it keeps the mids in the full range driver.
A 6.5" is the cone area I like / need (dual 4" drivers). I tend to occasionall listen louder for movies.
Norman
an impressive amount considering the size. I had it tuned to 55Hz in 4 liters BR. it's the classical "Q: can you turn off the subwoofer, so I can hear the bass of the small thing? A: the sub is off..." in this size the bass is not very deep, but powerfull and only with stuff like 5 string bass or organ you'll want deeper bass
if you have the room for a larger box, put 2 in a TL and they realy shine, with nice deep and clean bass
if you have the room for a larger box, put 2 in a TL and they realy shine, with nice deep and clean bass
norman bates said:
Here is another example:
We are quite chuffed with its performance, FF85KeN + SDX7 sealed, PLLXO at ~333Hz, The assymetrical slopes in the XO (2nd order on midtweeter, 1st order on woofer) help with BSC,
There are a huge number of potentially good combos for FAST these days.
dave
It refers to a system utilising a full-range driver as a mid-tweeter accompanied by a woofer/subwoofer, typically with a moderately low crossover point.
I will guess the anacronym as Fullrange Assisted Subwoofer Topology?
Looks like a nice design anyhow. I will second not porting your fullranger, it creates a less predictable rolloff compared to sealed as well as detracting from excursion control
I will guess the anacronym as Fullrange Assisted Subwoofer Topology?
Looks like a nice design anyhow. I will second not porting your fullranger, it creates a less predictable rolloff compared to sealed as well as detracting from excursion control
planet10 said:
My initial gut-instinct was to seal the little box.... an aperiodic tl box is a tempter, but design+build complexity are probably a bit too much for me just yet.
Can anyone point me to a (lay-person's) article to outline the whys and fors of front-fire/rear-fire BR boxes for the little sub. I need to reassure myself about where the cancelling wave will come in.
planet10 said:
Dave, it would appear that bi-amping is mandatory for the PLLXO as the xo goes in between the pre-amp and the amp. Am I interpreting that correctly?
For those of us with one amp, I was wondering if the series xo that Tony Gee employed on his Paper HATT might work. I modeled it in PCD and it was very nice. I believe the concerns Gee stated about bass leaking through the inductors wouldn't be an issue. What's your opinion of this simple passive, single amp xo?
John
HareBrained said:
Yes. A PLLXO is a passive (very inexpensive) active XO. For those with more than 1 amp it is a no-brainer. For those without, it is possibly worth considering getting a 2nd amp (for bass duties it is amazing what the $10-30 thrift store "amp" can do.
I like series XOs. But...
1/ price the cost of parts for a 200-400 Hz XO. At these frequencies, it has to be air-core, and to minimize the leakage Tony is concerned with (still real, but not as threatening as with a regular tweeter), it has to have as low a resistance as possible. You might find that getting a budget amp, making a PLLXO (and maybe having to create a pre-out/amp-in on your current amp) may come out cheaper.
2/ you are limiting your choice of midbass driver on the bottom to those that are more efficient than the mid-tweeter,
1 & 2 apply to parallel XOs too
3/ with a series XO, you can't use the assymetrical trick for BSC so that puts more limits on the design.
dave
Okay so after a quick whipthrough on winisd to get a bare idea about the volume and port needed for the subwoofer. In this case a dayton. I've drawn up this rough sketch. I just need to figure the specific dimensions of my tapered quarter wave section.
Comments?
Comments?
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