You're welcome!
Yeah, some of the speakers I did for others had to blend to the room's decor and since I refused to do any fine furniture finishing or wood veneering, the lady of the house had to choose an acceptable plastic laminate and/or paint and/or wallpaper scheme as well as help me more often than not to complete it in a timely fashion. Maybe that's why I never had any WAF/S.O. issues.
My fave though, and wish I had some pictures of, is some large MLTLs a lay friend at the time had me paint them with sign painter's bright white (alum. powder added for nighttime reflection) that she then proceeded to painstakingly paint/seal them up to look like the polished Georgia Marble fireplace they bracketed. From the listening position they were a perfect match even in a flash photo.
OK, after browsing the CSA site a bit more, the 13.6 with its ~32 Hz tuning still seems a reasonable choice, so unless you're planning on driving them with a really high output impedance amp it's probably not worth it overall going any larger unless the specs are even further off than Freddy's implies.
Anyway, if I'm to believe CSA's description of the Super 10 Vs the cast version, the responses should be ~the same in the 13.6, so using Freddy's Super 10 specs, I get this for a MLTL for a ~:
L = 63.25"
WxD (CSA) = ~371.4"^2
zdriver = 26"
zport = 59"
dport = 8" or rectangular equivalent (~50.266"^2)
Lport = 0.75"
All dims approximate and sims are with minimal wall damping. I recommend the widest practical baffle, so figure a ~1.5x installed driver depth to find cab internal depth to find the internal baffle width. With such a wide baffle, offsetting the driver in a golden ratio of external width is a good plan.
If these aren't big enough, you could always use the worst case specs which results in a pair of 80+ ft^3 net BIBs just to tune them to Fs...........
Note that when I blow up the Cast driver's specs by the same amount as Freddy's, the T/S max flat alignment is right at 13.6 ft^3. A coincidence?
GM
Attachments
I agree and if they are factory abberations/improperly measured/whatever, CSA can always post their thoughts and/or swap out the drivers.
GM
bet I've spent a s**tload of money during the years for custom tube amps, drivers, piles of stuff/** and at ~$99 this WT3 woofer tester was one of the better buys - surely someone in this hobby (or maybe even some "manufacturer") can afford one
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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my Super10 did not meet the published spec, Scott L's cast frame TSP (if real-?) were very much different with qts >1. At some point the parameters matter for new designs - (at least at small signal) and peaking will occur so magical thinking only goes so far.
what is happening with various fullrange drivers as they go past xmax with regards to Qts? - is it effectively doubling or worse? Are Fostex xmax ratings in reality larger than their spec? if top plate and coil height are known then it could be guesstimated
what is happening with various fullrange drivers as they go past xmax with regards to Qts? - is it effectively doubling or worse? Are Fostex xmax ratings in reality larger than their spec? if top plate and coil height are known then it could be guesstimated
Yeah, that's well beyond acceptable referenced to a published 0.278 Qts.
Right, at 70% BL, Qes has ~doubled.
I doubt it as most 'FR' drivers use a rising rate suspension to keep them from completely leaving the gap or bottoming out except in extreme situations, so as Qts is rising, Vas is falling to create a soft euphonic acoustical-mechanical clipping.
For folks like us though that are spoiled on ~life-like transient reproduction, 'soft' is unacceptable.
GM
Right, at 70% BL, Qes has ~doubled.
I doubt it as most 'FR' drivers use a rising rate suspension to keep them from completely leaving the gap or bottoming out except in extreme situations, so as Qts is rising, Vas is falling to create a soft euphonic acoustical-mechanical clipping.
For folks like us though that are spoiled on ~life-like transient reproduction, 'soft' is unacceptable.
GM
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Hey,
Noob here... 1st post. Thinking of getting a pair of Audio Nirvana Super 10 or 12 Cast drivers.
I will either build the 2.8 cabs or drop them into my Karlson K12 cabs... Any thoughts on the K12 with these drivers?
Also, what about a putting single fold (rear/horn) in the same size cab at the 2.8?
Noob here... 1st post. Thinking of getting a pair of Audio Nirvana Super 10 or 12 Cast drivers.
I will either build the 2.8 cabs or drop them into my Karlson K12 cabs... Any thoughts on the K12 with these drivers?
Also, what about a putting single fold (rear/horn) in the same size cab at the 2.8?
8" fullrange work well and sound good in K12 - I never mounted Super10 in K12 and not sure if its flange will fit into a 10.25" driver cutout with the driver on a donut adapter ring. Be sure to try to verify good parameters with your
Nirvana. My super8 have qts ~0.23, my stamped frame 10 were around 0.41, I've heard of high qts on some cast frame units. If you can mount it , it wouldn't hurt to try. Super10 in the somewhat larger X15 size works well.
Nirvana. My super8 have qts ~0.23, my stamped frame 10 were around 0.41, I've heard of high qts on some cast frame units. If you can mount it , it wouldn't hurt to try. Super10 in the somewhat larger X15 size works well.
An appropriate name if it means ~the same thing in English since according to WT3 measured specs, for a low distortion system, this driver theoretically wants a ~422.46 L/0.5 Qtc cab with a 140 Hz 1st order XO if WinISD Pro is to be believed. If 2nd order XO, then 75.2 L/0.707 Qtc. Even then, cone excursion peaks out at 3+ mm/50 W rated power.
GM
GM
10 inch Super cast AN drivers
I purchased a pair of these 10 inch drivers some time ago and have been watching with interest the many valued responses from the gang here. I recently constructed the cabinets as suggested by Commonsense which, as I'm typing this at work, I cannot quote the box sizes...the bigger size (not much help?) it is roughly about 160lts. This means huge and heavy as I made them out of the suggested 18mm MDF with the vent as specified! The sound is surprisingly enjoyable! Initially the sound was pretty thin but it is deepening and broadening out. There is great bass response and an extremely clear mid, upper mid and treble response.......as I said...I was becoming sceptacle about the sound possible but have been surprised. Without any shadow of doubt (don't you love that???) I'm getting down to 36htz in my room and the bass is great and not as hidden as my Fostex "Bigger is Better" (Fe167e) which are the 'love of my life! The room is: 4.2mtres by 7.5 mtres with a 3 metre ceiling. The Audio Nirvana's rock as well! As I said, I am surprised with them! Unlike my Fe167 which needed a tweeter to retain the crispness of high frequs....these AN's do not require any tweeter support! Got me bluffed!
If you are still reading this: I use a locally made Earl Weston KT 88 SET amp...(which is a stunner! Crisp...deep, clean and musical) and I play a variety of music from Classic through blues and Jazz, and then pop and rock! ...on either CD or vinyl. You have to hear RL Burnside on vinyl: "wish I was in Heaven sitting down" to believe it!
I'll leave it with you! If you are considering these drivers...they really are a 'no brainer'.....simply do it and have some fun with sound again! You wont be out of pocket by much anyway.
Best Regards to you all: Dave
I purchased a pair of these 10 inch drivers some time ago and have been watching with interest the many valued responses from the gang here. I recently constructed the cabinets as suggested by Commonsense which, as I'm typing this at work, I cannot quote the box sizes...the bigger size (not much help?) it is roughly about 160lts. This means huge and heavy as I made them out of the suggested 18mm MDF with the vent as specified! The sound is surprisingly enjoyable! Initially the sound was pretty thin but it is deepening and broadening out. There is great bass response and an extremely clear mid, upper mid and treble response.......as I said...I was becoming sceptacle about the sound possible but have been surprised. Without any shadow of doubt (don't you love that???) I'm getting down to 36htz in my room and the bass is great and not as hidden as my Fostex "Bigger is Better" (Fe167e) which are the 'love of my life! The room is: 4.2mtres by 7.5 mtres with a 3 metre ceiling. The Audio Nirvana's rock as well! As I said, I am surprised with them! Unlike my Fe167 which needed a tweeter to retain the crispness of high frequs....these AN's do not require any tweeter support! Got me bluffed!
If you are still reading this: I use a locally made Earl Weston KT 88 SET amp...(which is a stunner! Crisp...deep, clean and musical) and I play a variety of music from Classic through blues and Jazz, and then pop and rock! ...on either CD or vinyl. You have to hear RL Burnside on vinyl: "wish I was in Heaven sitting down" to believe it!
I'll leave it with you! If you are considering these drivers...they really are a 'no brainer'.....simply do it and have some fun with sound again! You wont be out of pocket by much anyway.
Best Regards to you all: Dave
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have a little question
I've bought the 10" with stamped Frame, and want to make a FAST, now I'm not sure how much Volume Closed Box I need, so that Nirvanas go down to 60hz?
These Loudspeakers I will name BEHEMOT
Thanks and Greets from Serbia
my Friend told me I need 10.35l netto
visual description ?
Dave,
Could you give us a brief visual descrition of your cast frame 10's ?
The reason I ask, is, I beleive my pair are from on off-shoot batch made in china, and NOT anywhere near spec. Mine are totally black, no logo, no gold trim.... nothing. Thanks in adavance.
Dave,
Could you give us a brief visual descrition of your cast frame 10's ?
The reason I ask, is, I beleive my pair are from on off-shoot batch made in china, and NOT anywhere near spec. Mine are totally black, no logo, no gold trim.... nothing. Thanks in adavance.
Hi Scott L:
Sorry, I have not been paying attention to the thread. I've got to pull these drivers out of the boxes soon to complete the project ie; make the boxes llok nice. I'll load-up some pitures. These drivers have cast frames...a sticker on the bottom of the magnet...a screw in the bottom back vent of the magnet ...which I initially tried to pull out. The drivers are a charcoal grey affair with a rubberised double folded edge to the frame. They have a copper coloured dust cover/cone in the shape of a bullet. They also have a whizzer cone.
They have surprised a few of us with their sound....I made the 5.6 cabinets as per specs....simply from 18mm MDF (yuk!) I used grey truckies wool to line: top, sides and back half-way down, I have a brace at this point and a 6 inch hole...not really a port. I'll get pictures posted early next week.
They do not have the same dry sound as my Fostex Fe167 is the "Bigger is Better" cabinets. And there is no need for a booster tweeter like I have in my BiB's. As I said....I was extremely suspicious of these and have been shocked by their sound and performance.
I'll load-up next week.
Kind Rgards: Dave T
Sorry, I have not been paying attention to the thread. I've got to pull these drivers out of the boxes soon to complete the project ie; make the boxes llok nice. I'll load-up some pitures. These drivers have cast frames...a sticker on the bottom of the magnet...a screw in the bottom back vent of the magnet ...which I initially tried to pull out. The drivers are a charcoal grey affair with a rubberised double folded edge to the frame. They have a copper coloured dust cover/cone in the shape of a bullet. They also have a whizzer cone.
They have surprised a few of us with their sound....I made the 5.6 cabinets as per specs....simply from 18mm MDF (yuk!) I used grey truckies wool to line: top, sides and back half-way down, I have a brace at this point and a 6 inch hole...not really a port. I'll get pictures posted early next week.
They do not have the same dry sound as my Fostex Fe167 is the "Bigger is Better" cabinets. And there is no need for a booster tweeter like I have in my BiB's. As I said....I was extremely suspicious of these and have been shocked by their sound and performance.
I'll load-up next week.
Kind Rgards: Dave T
Thanks, Dave... You helped me make a decision about mine, since mine DO NOT look like that at all. I will have to report back as to the results later.
Looking foward to any more listening impressions and pictures by you.
Dimensions
Sorry, but they are indeed expressed in INCHES.
Based on 3/4 " stock (plans list baltic birch ply or MDF)
height= 38.5
width = 14.5
depth = 11.25
port(s) 13.5 from bottom, either twin 3inches, OR one big port 6, no duct in either case
driver centered from sides, and 30.25 distance from bottom
notes:1) acoustic damping material all sides EXCEPT front.
2) internal braces, all sides, 3/4 x 1 inch MDF i.e. side to side, front to back, about mid-way up cabinet
Sorry, but they are indeed expressed in INCHES.
Based on 3/4 " stock (plans list baltic birch ply or MDF)
height= 38.5
width = 14.5
depth = 11.25
port(s) 13.5 from bottom, either twin 3inches, OR one big port 6, no duct in either case
driver centered from sides, and 30.25 distance from bottom
notes:1) acoustic damping material all sides EXCEPT front.
2) internal braces, all sides, 3/4 x 1 inch MDF i.e. side to side, front to back, about mid-way up cabinet
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