Thus far I've zero experience building speakers. I stumbled into diyAudio when I was looking for a way to retrofit some old speakers with bad drivers. With help from the forum, I replaced 2 woofers & a tweeter with a single FE167, sealed up the cabinet well and after some breakin they sound really good. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=107127
For my first project, I've selected what I think will be one of the easiest builds - Fonken Floorstander Mark II, is not very big, and that takes advantage of the Planet 10 FE127eN. Can't wait to hear what an EnABL'd speaker sounds like. I'm building these out of 5/8 inch MDF. I wanted Baltic Birch, but I had trouble finding it so I figure I'll *try* MDF. I bought it pre-cut at a cabinet maker and the cut pieces are perfect! *Much* better job than I could have done with my circular saw. I'm hoping that this is just my 1st of many projects and that my skills will eventually improve to the point where I can build (& finish) some of the more complex designs.
I've collected all the parts and now I'm trying to get started and I need some construction advice.
1) - Holes - I should have had the cabinet maker drill the holes for me because that's my 1st problem. I bought a 4 inch hole saw (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100495363) for the drivers - haven't tried it yet. But I started with the holes for the holey brace and can't get through the MDF! I've tried a 2 inch hole saw (like this: http://power-tools.hardwarestore.co...-saw-assortment-684927.aspx?CAWELAID=42563461) with an old 9 inch drill press, a battery drill and an electric drill (a very old one). So the 1st question is: what does it take to drill large holes in MDF? Could it be the hole saw I'm using?
2) - Holey Brace Holes Percentage - The Fonken floorstander MKII plans don't say how many holes to drill or how big they should be or what percentage of the total board area they should be. Elsewhere on the forum and Planet 10 plans, I've seen that 35-40% of the area should be holes and at least once in the forum a recommendation for 50%. Is there a way to determine what this number should be? I don't know how important it is. Maybe the range is wider 35-50%? Or should I just drill a buncha holes and move on?
3) - Lining/Stuffing I bought some adhesive backed acoustic foam from Parts Express for the liner because I figured it would be easy to use but, browsing the forum, I get the idea that's not the best way to go. I don't think it could be used on the holey brace because it would seal the holes. Can anyone give me a link where I can order some recommended material for lining? I'll be using the stuffing that came out of my old speakers (sounded so good without, I've never tried putting any back in!). Looks like it meets the description of what's recommended.
Thanks for the help!
Bob
For my first project, I've selected what I think will be one of the easiest builds - Fonken Floorstander Mark II, is not very big, and that takes advantage of the Planet 10 FE127eN. Can't wait to hear what an EnABL'd speaker sounds like. I'm building these out of 5/8 inch MDF. I wanted Baltic Birch, but I had trouble finding it so I figure I'll *try* MDF. I bought it pre-cut at a cabinet maker and the cut pieces are perfect! *Much* better job than I could have done with my circular saw. I'm hoping that this is just my 1st of many projects and that my skills will eventually improve to the point where I can build (& finish) some of the more complex designs.
I've collected all the parts and now I'm trying to get started and I need some construction advice.
1) - Holes - I should have had the cabinet maker drill the holes for me because that's my 1st problem. I bought a 4 inch hole saw (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100495363) for the drivers - haven't tried it yet. But I started with the holes for the holey brace and can't get through the MDF! I've tried a 2 inch hole saw (like this: http://power-tools.hardwarestore.co...-saw-assortment-684927.aspx?CAWELAID=42563461) with an old 9 inch drill press, a battery drill and an electric drill (a very old one). So the 1st question is: what does it take to drill large holes in MDF? Could it be the hole saw I'm using?
2) - Holey Brace Holes Percentage - The Fonken floorstander MKII plans don't say how many holes to drill or how big they should be or what percentage of the total board area they should be. Elsewhere on the forum and Planet 10 plans, I've seen that 35-40% of the area should be holes and at least once in the forum a recommendation for 50%. Is there a way to determine what this number should be? I don't know how important it is. Maybe the range is wider 35-50%? Or should I just drill a buncha holes and move on?
3) - Lining/Stuffing I bought some adhesive backed acoustic foam from Parts Express for the liner because I figured it would be easy to use but, browsing the forum, I get the idea that's not the best way to go. I don't think it could be used on the holey brace because it would seal the holes. Can anyone give me a link where I can order some recommended material for lining? I'll be using the stuffing that came out of my old speakers (sounded so good without, I've never tried putting any back in!). Looks like it meets the description of what's recommended.
Thanks for the help!
Bob
rbclark said:
So you're not really a first timer!
rbclark said:
An open baffle would be easier!
Sometimes it is called multi-ply birch instead of baltic birch.rbclark said:
I use the hole saws and they work very well. You don't want to apply much down pressure. Especially when you are almost through or you might break off a chunk of MDF. My cordless drill does not have enough power to even come close. I have done 3/4" MDF with a good 3/8" drill. Obviously a 1/2" works even better.
Hope this helps.
Using a hole saw in you have to continually back the saw out enough to clear the sawdust from the teeth (while still keeping the pilot drill bit in) since there is no way to clear the sawdust out. So just take a little bit longer and back out after a little bit each time and you'll get it figured out.
I've been using hole saws for all my projects and thye have lasted for years.
With your suped up FE127e's the hole saws are a good investment for many builds to come.
After fiddling with hole saws to get a smooth cut all the way through,
someone finally suggested the obvious and right solution: flip the piece over and finish the hole on the opposite side. This prevents tear out and makes the plug easier to get out of the saw.
For larger drivers there are router add-ons that make the job a snap.
Routers and their jigs run into real dough. An acceptable hole can be done with a jig saw and one of it's circle makers.
I've added the chamfer on the interior side of the hole to give some breathing room for the back wave. Chamfering can be done by hand with a file or a router. You get more precision with a file but I have not used that method. Precision and control of a hand file are two different things.
My drivers are the plain vanilla FE127e used in a variety of builds.
With your suped up FE127e's the hole saws are a good investment for many builds to come.
After fiddling with hole saws to get a smooth cut all the way through,
someone finally suggested the obvious and right solution: flip the piece over and finish the hole on the opposite side. This prevents tear out and makes the plug easier to get out of the saw.
For larger drivers there are router add-ons that make the job a snap.
Routers and their jigs run into real dough. An acceptable hole can be done with a jig saw and one of it's circle makers.
I've added the chamfer on the interior side of the hole to give some breathing room for the back wave. Chamfering can be done by hand with a file or a router. You get more precision with a file but I have not used that method. Precision and control of a hand file are two different things.
My drivers are the plain vanilla FE127e used in a variety of builds.
Thanks for the suggestions. I slowed way down and brought the saw up more often and that helped alot. I was actually able to drill complete holes - but it was still slow. I went back to home depot and bought a Rigid hole saw. It works 10X better than the Black & Decker.
I've got the driver holes cut. They're not exactly centered. I meant for them to be, but... Anyway, this is my 1st set & it's a blast so far.
Now I'm doing the holey braces.
I've got the driver holes cut. They're not exactly centered. I meant for them to be, but... Anyway, this is my 1st set & it's a blast so far.
Now I'm doing the holey braces.
On any square piece, find the center by drawing diagonals at the corners. Where the diagonals meet is the center. Test this by measuring out out to the edge on both sides.
A little wobble can throw off the pinpoint center.
Diagonal measurement is also a test for square.
I've always wanted to have a machinist recut the pilot drill to a brad point but have not found a shop to do it.
A little wobble can throw off the pinpoint center.
Diagonal measurement is also a test for square.
I've always wanted to have a machinist recut the pilot drill to a brad point but have not found a shop to do it.
vinylkid58 said:
It is somewhat dependent on the airflow in the box. somewhere between 25-45% is sufficient.
The hardest part of these builds is often the holey brace, so i keep trying to figure ways of making them less effort. The goal is to stiffen the box, not impede the air pressures, yet confuse any standing waves.
dave
Here's a quick update:
For my first pair, they sound pretty darn good - not even broken in yet. Here's some pictures: http://clarkpics.smugmug.com/gallery/4062710
Let me know if there's anywhere I went off track so I can adjust my process next time. The back is screwed on (just in case I need to get back in there) with a gasket for better sealing. I still need to paint, but I'll probably listen to 'em for a while like they are.
I feel like I learned a lot, but there's so much more to learn! My 2nd cabinet turned out better than the 1st though! I've had a really satisfying project so far. Thanks everyone.
Bob
For my first pair, they sound pretty darn good - not even broken in yet. Here's some pictures: http://clarkpics.smugmug.com/gallery/4062710
Let me know if there's anywhere I went off track so I can adjust my process next time. The back is screwed on (just in case I need to get back in there) with a gasket for better sealing. I still need to paint, but I'll probably listen to 'em for a while like they are.
I feel like I learned a lot, but there's so much more to learn! My 2nd cabinet turned out better than the 1st though! I've had a really satisfying project so far. Thanks everyone.
Bob
Meet my EnFonkens!
Is it possible that they sound even better finished?! I decided to try veneer & I think they turned out pretty good for my 1st veneer job - don't look to close!
Here's another link to the the entire gallery: http://clarkpics.smugmug.com/gallery/4062710_7aTFE
Bob
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Is it possible that they sound even better finished?! I decided to try veneer & I think they turned out pretty good for my 1st veneer job - don't look to close!
Here's another link to the the entire gallery: http://clarkpics.smugmug.com/gallery/4062710_7aTFE
Bob
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