planet10 said:
Oh my..., Suzy C is the one.
Dave, I know u r overloaded with volunteer work, but if u can dish out some numbers for either FE107E, or el cheapo or TB, would love to cut some plywood. (I have the drivers all wanting a box)
gychang
--
FE107E 4" SHIELDED FULL RANGE
8 ohm impedance
Znom 8 ohm
Re 7.6 ohm
Le@1kHz - mH
fs 80 Hz
Qms 2.56
Qes 0.45
Qts 0.38
Mms 2.6 g
Cms 0.0017 mm/N
Sd 0.005 cm2
BL 4.7 N/A
Vas 5.95 ltrs
Xmax 0.35 mm peak
VC Ø 20 mm
Sensitivity
1W / 1m 90 dB
Nom. Power 15 W
--
Pioneer 4.5" el cheapo
# Power capacity: 20W/30W RMS/peak
# Sensitivity: 96dB (1W/1M)
# Impedance: 8ohm
# Re: 7.6ohm
# Le: 0.25mH
# Frequency response: 68Hz ~ 15KHz
# Fs: 68Hz
# Qts: 0.38
# Qes: 0.47
# Qms: 1.40
# VAS (liters): 8.7
# Xmax: 1.0mm
http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog_name=MCMProducts&product_id=51-075
--
TangBand W3-593SF 3" Driver
Power Handling: 12 watts RMS/25 watts max
*VCdia: 3/4"
*Impedance: 8 ohms
*Re: 6.6 ohms *Frequency range: 110-20,000 Hz
*Fs: 110 Hz *SPL: 86 dB 1W/1m
*Vas: .06 cu. ft.
*Qms: 4.99
*Qes: .67 *Qts: .59
*Xmax: .5 mm
*Dimensions: A: 3-3/16", B: 3-1/16", C: 2-1/4"
--
We're way ahead of you Greg. Already done. 
As Dave says, they're up on the Frugal-horn site. Direct link: http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/SuzyChang0v9-NBVR-map.pdf
As Dave says, they're up on the Frugal-horn site. Direct link: http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/SuzyChang0v9-NBVR-map.pdf
Scottmoose said:We're way ahead of you Greg. Already done.
oh, my... I knew I was in trouble when the experts named the cabinet...
looks simple to build, stylish, not too big (at least until we move to a mansion, although prefer BIG..)
Thanks, Scott and Dave as usual. Don't try to contact me this weekend, I will be occupied in my garage....
gychang
Attachments
Now they are quite cute little numbers...
Anyway on filling the bottom cavity.
1. Will anything do? plain river sand, kiln dried sand what they call 'sydney sand'? or paving sand?, lead shot? - no idea where to get that, but can probably get paving sand from bunnings...
2. pour straight in a back hole, or in some sort of 'glad bag' clip seal bag or plastic bag...
3. I've glued them together so I will have to drill a hole in the cavity area on the back somewhere... - what should I plug it with, or how big a hole?...
Anyway on filling the bottom cavity.
1. Will anything do? plain river sand, kiln dried sand what they call 'sydney sand'? or paving sand?, lead shot? - no idea where to get that, but can probably get paving sand from bunnings...
2. pour straight in a back hole, or in some sort of 'glad bag' clip seal bag or plastic bag...
3. I've glued them together so I will have to drill a hole in the cavity area on the back somewhere... - what should I plug it with, or how big a hole?...
everyone likes photo's, specially me, so here's some typical 'enclosure on the grass' shots...
And finally in it's natural habitat... Funny I didn't even measure the height of the TV stand, but drivers just peak over the top and yea, that's an OLD 80cm TV so the speaker do look small, but General TV listening vol doesn't need to be above the 1, and loud music listening around the 5 mark (being 0 as low and 10 as high).
And finally in it's natural habitat... Funny I didn't even measure the height of the TV stand, but drivers just peak over the top
and yea, that's an OLD 80cm TV so the speaker do look small, but General TV listening vol doesn't need to be above the 1, and loud music listening around the 5 mark (being 0 as low and 10 as high).
stevodude said:
according to some of the NRA members of Hornshoppe Forum, copper clad shot (cyro treated, of course) would be the best.
In all seriousness, though, I'd probably fill only the bottom 1/3 or so of the void, and step the remainder. For my filling media, I've been quite happy with a silicon carbide sand blasting material. I'm sure there are any number of brand names available at industrial building supply or auto paint supply dealers. IIRC, the one I've used is called "SureShot" or some such. The local high-end audio dealer uses it for filling their speaker and equipment stands.
Drill a hole on the bottom of cavity and fill with glued in tapered wood plug, or simply add another layer of plywood /MDF before finishing the cabinet.
stevodude said:
Sand is sand. It's the extras that matter. You want it clean and DRY.
Wash it thoroughly, as you don't want any organic contents that could decompose and smell.
To dry it - if you're impatient - spread it on a tray and bake it. Otherwise solar power is slower but just as good.
(Just don't let the cat near it!!!)
cheers
Doug
play sand and stuff...
the key is to have it sterile, (play sand is, at least here in good old Can'uckland), regardless of what sand you use. Casting silica sand (high purity) is excellent but pretty expensive, sterile and dry.
Something in the order of $80/20kg, and apparently a known carcinogen
Even play sand should be dried, either in an oven or in a dry hot area..if you bake any sand at 500°F for 10 Mins or so, pretty much everything will be dead, and the sand will be sterilized. Boiling water can also be used, but will kill fewer organisms.
the key is to have it sterile, (play sand is, at least here in good old Can'uckland), regardless of what sand you use. Casting silica sand (high purity) is excellent but pretty expensive, sterile and dry.
Something in the order of $80/20kg, and apparently a known carcinogen
Even play sand should be dried, either in an oven or in a dry hot area..if you bake any sand at 500°F for 10 Mins or so, pretty much everything will be dead, and the sand will be sterilized. Boiling water can also be used, but will kill fewer organisms.
stevodude said:
Well, technically, bauxite is Al2O3, while quartz sand is generally silica ... of varying purities.
Foundry sand (casting sand) is high purity silica sand. The purity is of no consequence wrt to speaker applications, and the only concern with regard to silica are particles fine enough to be respirable. So ... unless you manage to envelope yourself in a dust cloud for a considerable period, there is no danger. Relax and enjoy the music.
Doug
(former foundry sand technician)
Well, I didn't get a chance to take enclosures down for a finish yet, but...
thought I'd whip up some speaker grills as Saturday had some kids over, and they were sticking their ears right into the drivers, so sticking their sticky fingers in there is probably no far off...
took me about 1hr total finished.
found some 6mm mdf, cut 2 bits, clamped together and jigsawed out two holes ( for tweeter later on if I feel the need).
Rounded the outside edges with a mouse sander, quick spray paint with a can of glossy black (thats all I had, and it was still a dull matte black color due to MDF sucking the paint into it.)
cut a couple of pieces of stretchy black fabric I had from when I built my projection screen borders), stretched over and used a 10mm paint brush painted PVA glue on the backing and held fabric in place for a few seconds and held itself.
Cut up some Velcro into 1cm squares for holding grills in place.
slapped them on, easy... done.
I think they look a bit funny with the black only up high, but thats the way they are. *shrug*
when I get round to doing the wood finish I will use some grill lugs I have ordered, but I needed a quick fix and seems to have done the trick.
Close-ish shot
thought I'd whip up some speaker grills as Saturday had some kids over, and they were sticking their ears right into the drivers, so sticking their sticky fingers in there is probably no far off...
took me about 1hr total finished.
found some 6mm mdf, cut 2 bits, clamped together and jigsawed out two holes ( for tweeter later on if I feel the need).
Rounded the outside edges with a mouse sander, quick spray paint with a can of glossy black (thats all I had, and it was still a dull matte black color due to MDF sucking the paint into it.)
cut a couple of pieces of stretchy black fabric I had from when I built my projection screen borders), stretched over and used a 10mm paint brush painted PVA glue on the backing and held fabric in place for a few seconds and held itself.
Cut up some Velcro into 1cm squares for holding grills in place.
slapped them on, easy... done.
I think they look a bit funny with the black only up high, but thats the way they are. *shrug*
when I get round to doing the wood finish I will use some grill lugs I have ordered, but I needed a quick fix and seems to have done the trick.
Close-ish shot
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