How to label an audio case

[paulspencer]

I've been looking around for information on how to label a case. Does anyone know how it's done? I'd like to create labels on my computer and be able to get them on my electronics boxes, and to look presentable. Ideas? Links?

 

[mik]

I think this is the easiest way to do it and also look decent...
http://www.letraset.com/shopdisplaycategories.asp?id=139&cat=Transfer+Lettering&ssctn=default

 

[dnsey]

Print the whole panel layout on the reverse of a sheet of transparency film. You can then spray the film as you prefer (e.g. with 'silver' paint), and mount it on the front of the box. Use some sort of trim to hide the edges.

 

[paulspencer]

Does seem simple, but what if I want to create my own on computer?

 

[paulspencer]

Yep, I've thought of similar ideas, but I'd like to print in a way that looks like commercial audio equipment.

 

[sklimek]

Hi, a classic way but long and involved and maybe too crazy for getting type on metal is to etch it. You would need to first create your logo design or type in Photoshop 100% ‘laid out’ the way you need it and then generate a positive film either by a laser printer or a graphics service bureau. Next purchase some photo sensitive aluminum sheeting, or coat the sheet yourself with the same light sensitive solution and expose to ultra violet light either by the sun or an ultra violet/vacuum frame exposure unit. Develop the exposed metal in the prescribed developer, clear in water and etch in the correct acid, I’m thinking it is probably nitric, but a quick check Google shows phosphoric and ferric chloride as well. Once you get the desired depth from your etch you could press printmaking etching ink into the etched metal and wipe/scrape the surface of the metal to clean the surface but not touch the recessed ink.

Definitely involved but it offers the most classic, durable and personalized look. The process comes from the fine art printmaking world for making etchings where the plate is drawn with a metal stylus on top of a darkened acid resist exposing the naked metal below and then transferred to the acid etch before the ink is applied and paper press. Modern day printmaking use a photo resist instead of a stylus but it is still the same process.

 

[paulspencer]

Yikes, this is getting quite difficult! I'm starting to consider commercial options. I've seen transfers which you are supposed to be able to rub off, but they come with existing fonts. I'd like to be able to make a custom sheet.

I wasn't planning on using a metal front panel, but MDF and fairly thick. MDF probably painted silver.

The etching method would require me to spend a lot of time and possibly cost just to set up an etching bed.

 

[sklimek]

Actually you wouldn't need a etching press, its more like etching your own PCB boards - but you are right, custom etching on metal would take some time getting control of the process.

BTW - there is the photo silkscreen option that would work on painted wood. Once again you would create your logo in Photoshop, create a positive same size. Coat the silk of a silk screen w/ photo sensitive emulsion again and expose with the positive in contact w/ ultraviolet light again, develop the silk, then register the MDF panel in the silk frame and squeege the ink through the silk and it deposits on your panel, bingo custom logo in any color ink you want, but still a lot of work...

Your site looks great, Stan

 

[Bone]

Why not try Decal paper? see:
http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/clear water-slip decals.htm

I'm sure this is available in your part of the world!!

Tony

 

[DragonMaster]

What about the inkjet photo paper in a laser printer trick for PCBs? You print what you want on some photo paper on a laser printer (At highest density), and use an iron to transfer the toner on the metal. Then, you need to put the panel in warm water and brush a bit to get off the paper that stuck on the panel.

There are some papers made just for transferring that are simpler I think.