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Buzzing sound from power conditioner
Buzzing sound from power conditioner
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Old 13th September 2021, 06:50 PM   #11
jean-paul is offline jean-paul  Netherlands
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FIRST the cap Mr. Wilson. This Chinese made device is able to switch 120V 20A so 2.4 kW. That relay is likely for surge protection ("slow start") at power on. It will always be powered on I think. Then it will always hum too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NareshBrd View Post
An exchange will simply get another of the same quality...
Yes sir.
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Last edited by jean-paul; 13th September 2021 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 13th September 2021, 06:54 PM   #12
mwilson is offline mwilson  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NareshBrd View Post
An exchange will simply get another of the same quality...
One of my concerns too, hence my post here on diyaudio. I really appreciate all the help so far, and later today I'll take the unit apart, desolder and measure the capacitor, and report back. While at it I'll also swap the relay with that from the other unit, and will see if the problem goes away.
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Old 13th September 2021, 06:55 PM   #13
NareshBrd is offline NareshBrd  India
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Some relays have a thermal protector also, as extra protection.
Bimetallic strip at times.
Over and above fuse.

May or may not be there in this item, did not check listing and details.
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Old 13th September 2021, 06:58 PM   #14
jean-paul is offline jean-paul  Netherlands
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I made a mistake by thinking it is a 12V relay but it is a 48V type. Around 20..23 mA at 48V.

Now you could try out a larger value for C2 with the same voltage rating even with crocodile clips if you can handle those safely. In parallel with the current one. If the buzzing stops it is the cap for sure.
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Old 13th September 2021, 08:45 PM   #15
jean-paul is offline jean-paul  Netherlands
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Now I recently acquired a NOS/NIB OEM made 100 Euro mains filter (never pay too much for a brand name) with the same relays by the same manufacturer. I just checked. Wait a minute, I take a bite of one of their spring rolls. Delicious!

Mine has even 2 of them in the 12V version and in this device they switch groups hence the mix up I made Your device has the relay to switch on the transformer I think. They are fed by a 12V SMPS. The relays are dead quiet.

Now check what is not according the book of OCD audiophiles....
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Last edited by jean-paul; 13th September 2021 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 13th September 2021, 11:01 PM   #16
mwilson is offline mwilson  United States
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The capacitor is 47uF/63V. I don't have any other capacitor on hand, and just realized that I don't have desoldering wick, so I will put this off until I swing by my office later in the week and grab either a spool of that or a solder vac from the shop so I can swap the relays. I'll also check and see if we have any larger capacitors while at it. I'll report back later.

Once again, I appreciate all the help!
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Old 14th September 2021, 04:15 AM   #17
NareshBrd is offline NareshBrd  India
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Oh, and one more thing I have had happen to me: blown or open single rectifier in the bridge. Check those too if relay supply weak.

Replacing it solved the no charging problem in an LED auto light (it comes on when mains fails, if you want it to). Made in China.
The sales guy said batteries are old, so a friend gave it to me.

I checked and found charging voltage was lower than needed.
Powered off, disconnected from mains, found and changed the stupid 4007.
He said how much...I said it was from a scrapped circuit, anyway those are 0.10 Euros per dozen or so.

He is a friend, he was happy that his light was working again. No charge...

Try and put a higher voltage rated capacitor if you can, 48 x 1.5 = 72V
80V or 100V would be safer.

Last edited by NareshBrd; 14th September 2021 at 04:42 AM.
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Old 14th September 2021, 04:38 AM   #18
tauro0221 is offline tauro0221  United States
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Hi,
One thing you can do it is read the relay DC voltage with a voltmeter in the AC and it should read zero if not you have a bad capacitor or a bad bridge diode.
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Old 14th September 2021, 01:56 PM   #19
mwilson is offline mwilson  United States
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Found a 470uF 100V polarized cap. Think that will be a good replacement for the 47uF 63V that's currently there? Pinout footprint is larger, but I figured I have sufficient vertical clearance to ease into the existing holes (thinking of covering up the exposed legs with similar gauge wire jacket, like from Ethernet pairs). I'll also check the DC voltage as advised. I will be away for a few days but will report back toward the weekend.
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Old 14th September 2021, 02:21 PM   #20
jean-paul is offline jean-paul  Netherlands
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Missed the update, sorry. Don't replace the relay as this one has seen not much hours AND desoldering/resoldering won't make relays any better. First the cap!

A little bit surprised to see that device hast cost $4,914.95...... just when I thought my German made brand new isolation medical transformer was expensive with 75 Euro

Now if that thingie would be mine I think I wouldn't take a random polarized cap but I would order a known good cap like a Panasonic FC 220 F 100V (code: EEU-FC2A221L) or the Panasonic FC 100 F 100V (code: EEU-FC2A101L
) if that fits better physically plus 4 new diodes by a known good brand just in case if only to prevent peeling off of PCB tracks when soldering a few times.

Measuring the diodes is a must.
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Last edited by jean-paul; 14th September 2021 at 02:28 PM.
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