I am in the uk.
TLDR: I am trying to decide which way to go with tools.
I have used various tools in the past, but they are not very good.
But neither am I.
They were good enough for hacking up wood for garden stuff. Sheds, bases, fences, that sort of thing.
I have never had the time to work out how to do things better. Now is the time.
I do have a small garage, but I don't currently have a lot of floor space. Not quite big enough to fit an 8x4 sheet. But I am considering removing some stuff to make more floor space.
I am considering seeing if I might get rid of some things to make space. It all depends on how much space is required really.
I just got a second hand circular saw (i found my last one in a skip and I can tell why
) But need to put more effort into making it square I think.
Bosch GKS 190. But I am not positive it is square.
I don't think my straight edge is straight
I have a half decent chop saw (bottom end makita).
I have started having a crack at the fun OB speakers to see where I need to improve.
My questions are a bit vague while I am trying to work out which way to go. If doing a half decent job will be too much money or space, I will have to accept it and try and find a place that cuts things to size.
I would like to be able to do it myself for other things like simple furniture as well.
Skill saw
My straight lines with a skill saw were not always straight. I am assuming that is my technique. Although, do better skill saws have better adjustments to get their angle dead right? Mine seems a bit vague when setting the bevel.
Also, is it actually possible to be as consistent with a circular saw as with a table saw?
I already know I need to make more space as I was over reaching, having to stand on it to cut it stuff like that.
I also tried doing it on a folding workbench, but I think the floor is a better way to go while the bits are bigger, right?
I just need some thicker sacrificial bits underneath to allow for C Clamp space, right?
(Plus an actually straight, straight edge)
Table saw
I am thinking this is the other option.
I am also thinking I would love one.
I am also thinking I need loads of space for this.
Am I right I could roll the table saw under something for storage?
But then I also need support for the wood as I cut it, right?
I suppose the question is, how much space and money would I need?
(I think I might have to do some research into getting someone to do the cutting )
Jigsaw.
Again, only had a cheap one which was frustrating to use.
I am thinking this is a necessary tool for driver holes.
Can I get some advice as to which way to go please?
what sort of numbers am I looking for?
I have an ok screw gun and corded drill.
Sorry it is a long one.
thanks.
TLDR: I am trying to decide which way to go with tools.
I have used various tools in the past, but they are not very good.
But neither am I.
They were good enough for hacking up wood for garden stuff. Sheds, bases, fences, that sort of thing.
I have never had the time to work out how to do things better. Now is the time.
I do have a small garage, but I don't currently have a lot of floor space. Not quite big enough to fit an 8x4 sheet. But I am considering removing some stuff to make more floor space.
I am considering seeing if I might get rid of some things to make space. It all depends on how much space is required really.
I just got a second hand circular saw (i found my last one in a skip and I can tell why
) But need to put more effort into making it square I think.Bosch GKS 190. But I am not positive it is square.
I don't think my straight edge is straight
I have a half decent chop saw (bottom end makita).
I have started having a crack at the fun OB speakers to see where I need to improve.
My questions are a bit vague while I am trying to work out which way to go. If doing a half decent job will be too much money or space, I will have to accept it and try and find a place that cuts things to size.
I would like to be able to do it myself for other things like simple furniture as well.
Skill saw
My straight lines with a skill saw were not always straight. I am assuming that is my technique. Although, do better skill saws have better adjustments to get their angle dead right? Mine seems a bit vague when setting the bevel.
Also, is it actually possible to be as consistent with a circular saw as with a table saw?
I already know I need to make more space as I was over reaching, having to stand on it to cut it
stuff like that.I also tried doing it on a folding workbench, but I think the floor is a better way to go while the bits are bigger, right?
I just need some thicker sacrificial bits underneath to allow for C Clamp space, right?
(Plus an actually straight, straight edge)
Table saw
I am thinking this is the other option.
I am also thinking I would love one.
I am also thinking I need loads of space for this.
Am I right I could roll the table saw under something for storage?
But then I also need support for the wood as I cut it, right?
I suppose the question is, how much space and money would I need?
(I think I might have to do some research into getting someone to do the cutting
)Jigsaw.
Again, only had a cheap one which was frustrating to use.
I am thinking this is a necessary tool for driver holes.
Can I get some advice as to which way to go please?
what sort of numbers am I looking for?
I have an ok screw gun and corded drill.
Sorry it is a long one.
thanks.
Last edited:
You can get a lot done with a circular saw with a track saw attachment (can be made) and a router with a circle cutting jig.
Jigsaws are good for rough cuts, but you will never get a true straight edge (or nice circle) with a jigsaw.
For a speaker baffle, you can rip the boards down with the circular saw and track. Then route out the speaker hole using the router and circle jig.
A table saw is excellent for cutting boards, but sometimes you still need to cut them smaller with a circ saw to make them manageable. I've got a dewalt DWE7491 in a single garage, and it does the job, but it is heavy to manoeuvre to store. It also needs plenty of space for the outfeed.
Table saws (except in some respects the SawStop) are brutally unforgiving. If you do not have the space to use one safely, then it's better to consider how much you like your fingers being on the end of your hand.. same goes for those $99 table saws
Also consider dust extraction and a good respirator. MDF is the new asbestos..
Honestly IMO, a decent chop saw, circular saw with track and a router with various jigs would probably get you pretty far.
Jigsaws are good for rough cuts, but you will never get a true straight edge (or nice circle) with a jigsaw.
For a speaker baffle, you can rip the boards down with the circular saw and track. Then route out the speaker hole using the router and circle jig.
A table saw is excellent for cutting boards, but sometimes you still need to cut them smaller with a circ saw to make them manageable. I've got a dewalt DWE7491 in a single garage, and it does the job, but it is heavy to manoeuvre to store. It also needs plenty of space for the outfeed.
Table saws (except in some respects the SawStop) are brutally unforgiving. If you do not have the space to use one safely, then it's better to consider how much you like your fingers being on the end of your hand.. same goes for those $99 table saws
Also consider dust extraction and a good respirator. MDF is the new asbestos..
Honestly IMO, a decent chop saw, circular saw with track and a router with various jigs would probably get you pretty far.
That is great info, thank you very much.
As long as I know it is doable, I then know it is my technique, so that is great to know.
I can't imagine using a cheap table saw at all.
So, I don't really have the space for a decent table saw and the 'outfeed' (thanks for the terminology) right now, but good to know that it is all doable with a skill saw.
I have seen people mentioning they do it on the floor and that sounds good to me. Means I can sit on it without it warping.
I couldn't work out how they would clamp the straight edge to the wood though.
I have been searching that and turns out a good way is some foam insulation board under it.
Cut a notch out of the corners and buy different clamps.
Old C clamps are not going to do it are they?
I shall make a straight edge.
(I know what you mean there, I have seen it. Using two bits of ply and cutting with your saw so that the edge matches your saw. Brilliant.)
If I don't have to splash out on a table saw, I think I might like a better skill saw. *starts saving*
Thanks for the tip on MDF.
I am aware of it and have decided not to use it.
I used to use it and be around it on some sites before I discovered about it.
Thanks for the comments on the jigsaw.
I hadn't even thought of a router.
That sounds way more fun.
Any tips as to what level I should go for here?
I don't think I have ever even held one.
Always fancied an excuse to get a router.
Thanks again for your input.
Given me direction.
As long as I know it is doable, I then know it is my technique, so that is great to know.
I can't imagine using a cheap table saw at all.
So, I don't really have the space for a decent table saw and the 'outfeed' (thanks for the terminology) right now, but good to know that it is all doable with a skill saw.
I have seen people mentioning they do it on the floor and that sounds good to me. Means I can sit on it without it warping.
I couldn't work out how they would clamp the straight edge to the wood though.
I have been searching that and turns out a good way is some foam insulation board under it.
Cut a notch out of the corners and buy different clamps
. Old C clamps are not going to do it are they?
I shall make a straight edge.
(I know what you mean there, I have seen it. Using two bits of ply and cutting with your saw so that the edge matches your saw. Brilliant.)
If I don't have to splash out on a table saw, I think I might like a better skill saw. *starts saving*
Thanks for the tip on MDF.
I am aware of it and have decided not to use it.
I used to use it and be around it on some sites before I discovered about it.
Thanks for the comments on the jigsaw.
I hadn't even thought of a router.
That sounds way more fun.
Any tips as to what level I should go for here?
I don't think I have ever even held one.
Always fancied an excuse to get a router.
Thanks again for your input.
Given me direction.
You need to fab up (or buy) some kind of rip fence. It makes it so much easier to cut square.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTEC-Rip-Fence-for-POWERTEC-Wood-Band-Saw-BS900RF/300070421?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-Multi-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-NA-Power_Tool_Accessories&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-Multi-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-NA-Power_Tool_Accessories-71700000086053653-58700007291967535-92700065470082069&gclid=CjwKCAjw7rWKBhAtEiwAJ3CWLK9rgja_aDXrO_hMpiQ6fKIkr_4QfU4KrfO3mcRLhpPfsx1ccQO1RxoC04kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
It's true about the table saw. I have one and one time a piece of board got jammed and it launched the board like it was shot out of a cannon. Table saws are great for making repeatable cuts (and other things) but they are totally unforgiving.
Make sure you have the right blade in your circular saw. Make sure it's not worn. More teeth = better for fine cuts.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTE...3mcRLhpPfsx1ccQO1RxoC04kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTEC-Rip-Fence-for-POWERTEC-Wood-Band-Saw-BS900RF/300070421?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-Multi-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-NA-Power_Tool_Accessories&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-025_007_PWR_TOOL_ACC-Multi-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-NA-Power_Tool_Accessories-71700000086053653-58700007291967535-92700065470082069&gclid=CjwKCAjw7rWKBhAtEiwAJ3CWLK9rgja_aDXrO_hMpiQ6fKIkr_4QfU4KrfO3mcRLhpPfsx1ccQO1RxoC04kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
It's true about the table saw. I have one and one time a piece of board got jammed and it launched the board like it was shot out of a cannon. Table saws are great for making repeatable cuts (and other things) but they are totally unforgiving.
Make sure you have the right blade in your circular saw. Make sure it's not worn. More teeth = better for fine cuts.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTE...3mcRLhpPfsx1ccQO1RxoC04kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
When you begin with hand tools, you gain an ability to see ahead of your cuts, and you get a feel for pressures, grain and things that can go wrong.
If you want to cut an 8x4 in half with a circular saw you won't be able to see it properly or feed it in the usual way. You risk it binding and kicking back. Both ends need to be well supported and you should have access from each side.
If you want to cut an 8x4 in half with a circular saw you won't be able to see it properly or feed it in the usual way. You risk it binding and kicking back. Both ends need to be well supported and you should have access from each side.
If I had to choose hand tools I'd go for a 1/4" router, a 1/2" router and a skill saw (or decent jigsaw)
A router with a flush cut bit will follow a straight edge much better than a skillsaw. A lot of times I rough cut a couple of mm away from my line, clamp a straight edge to the line and use my router to remove the last couple of mm. Cheaper skillsaws also have a tendency to move about from being exactly 90 degrees to the footplate.
I have this plunge saw but it's not perfect. You can buy a single piece longer rail that would work better with it I think its about £60.
I made a router table for my biggest router that really comes in handy. Just a large flat piece of ply with a hole in it really, but you can screw a fence to it if you need to.
I bought an old but very solid smallish table saw for about £50 off ebay years back. With a bit of fettling and building sledges etc you can get them to cut pretty accurate.
hth,
Rob.
A router with a flush cut bit will follow a straight edge much better than a skillsaw. A lot of times I rough cut a couple of mm away from my line, clamp a straight edge to the line and use my router to remove the last couple of mm. Cheaper skillsaws also have a tendency to move about from being exactly 90 degrees to the footplate.
I have this plunge saw but it's not perfect. You can buy a single piece longer rail that would work better with it I think its about £60.
I made a router table for my biggest router that really comes in handy. Just a large flat piece of ply with a hole in it really, but you can screw a fence to it if you need to.
I bought an old but very solid smallish table saw for about £50 off ebay years back. With a bit of fettling and building sledges etc you can get them to cut pretty accurate.
hth,
Rob.
I use a couple clamps, and a straight piece of metal or wood, to make a "guide".
My version of a diy track saw.
Then you can either use a jig saw or circular saw, and should get a good cut. It might take some practice keeping the saw against the straight edge, but it will work.
IMHO, worth the investment for good tools if you're going to do this.
I have Milwaukee, Bosch and Dewalt, there are other companies that make good stuff too. Not sure what they have over there though. I also buy stuff from Harbor Freight, but usually not power tools.
My version of a diy track saw.
Then you can either use a jig saw or circular saw, and should get a good cut. It might take some practice keeping the saw against the straight edge, but it will work.
IMHO, worth the investment for good tools if you're going to do this.
I have Milwaukee, Bosch and Dewalt, there are other companies that make good stuff too. Not sure what they have over there though. I also buy stuff from Harbor Freight, but usually not power tools.
A 1/2 router (DW625 is about as good as you can go), a circular saw (what you have is ok), a jigsaw (Makita 4350 is by far the best I`ve had and with the right blade it can cut super straight) and a drill for all those hole saws and a larger bit to drill a hole before inserting the jigsaw knife. Then comes the number one used tool - good orbital sander. I think its hard to beat the Metabo SXE 450 here and 150mm sanding discs will come much cheaper than 125mm ones. That`s about what you want, one good quality rasp (I like the Bahco wood rasps a lot) and clamps (Bessey).
I don't know much, I'll admit, but don't forget about things like circular saw blades, drill bits, chop saw blades... probably a good a idea to invest some money in decent, but not over the top, ones.
Good tools + bad blades = nothing but danger and frustration. It's like the old adage: a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one.
Good tools + bad blades = nothing but danger and frustration. It's like the old adage: a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one.
For cutting on the floor I use these things to make a platform. It is much better then using foam. To get good cuts with a circular saw the blade needs to run true. My best circular saw is an old craftsman with ball bearings on the motor shaft for almost no blade wobble. Some of my other saws have so much wobble when you grab the blade(unplugged of course) that I do not use them.
I just started using one of these crosscut jigs and it seems to work very well ad it is so easy to use.
I love my routers. A plunge cut base makes cutting speaker baffles easier.
I just started using one of these crosscut jigs and it seems to work very well ad it is so easy to use.
I love my routers. A plunge cut base makes cutting speaker baffles easier.
This is all excellent information.
Thank you all for all the comments and tips.
It is much appreciated.
I basically need to put more thought into this than just hacking at it
Up my game somewhat.
I have my plan for the floor.
I shall make myself a straight edge.
I realised that my circular saw frame is not quite straight.
You know what? I hadn't thought to check the quality of the blade it came with. Yes, a decent bit/blade etc makes ALL of the difference. I still remember the day I bought my first decent drill wood bit.
The setting for my various angles on the skill saw has no stops, so it is a bit vague.
Knowing it is all doable without a table saw is great. As much as I fancy one, I don't have the space. (plus, yes, I do like all of my fingers).
Clamps. I have a range of C clamps. I need to get some shallower ones if I am to cut on the floor though. Plus, I remember with envy friends using those ones you just squeeze to clamp *drools*.
I need to make a bit more space to allow better access rather than squeezing round things.
Sander. Good comment too. I have a Makita BO3700.
Thanks for the suggestions on rasps and clamps. I would have no idea what name to go with. Actually, I do have an ancient clamp. Great big one. Rescued it, I wonder if it is all there.
That cross cut jig looks interesting.
Router
So, ideally, a 1/4 and a 1/2 inch router right?
To start with, I am thinking a 1/2 inch is better.
With the 1/4 being about more delicate work?
(my tool of choice is a club hammer)
I like the idea of using the router for the final cut.
Removes any doubts I have about my skill saw. Thanks.
I hadn't considered a router before. Let alone thought about it being more accurate.
Time to think about which router to get.
I see a plunge cut base mentioned.
So, first decision is 1/4 or 1/2 right? (I am thinkling 1/2 to start me)
Then next is plunge base or fixed, right? Plunge seems to make more sense, right?
Thank you all for all the comments and tips.
It is much appreciated.
I basically need to put more thought into this than just hacking at it
Up my game somewhat.
I have my plan for the floor.
I shall make myself a straight edge.
I realised that my circular saw frame is not quite straight.
You know what? I hadn't thought to check the quality of the blade it came with. Yes, a decent bit/blade etc makes ALL of the difference. I still remember the day I bought my first decent drill wood bit.
The setting for my various angles on the skill saw has no stops, so it is a bit vague.
Knowing it is all doable without a table saw is great. As much as I fancy one, I don't have the space. (plus, yes, I do like all of my fingers).
Clamps. I have a range of C clamps. I need to get some shallower ones if I am to cut on the floor though. Plus, I remember with envy friends using those ones you just squeeze to clamp *drools*.
I need to make a bit more space to allow better access rather than squeezing round things.
Sander. Good comment too. I have a Makita BO3700.
Thanks for the suggestions on rasps and clamps. I would have no idea what name to go with. Actually, I do have an ancient clamp. Great big one. Rescued it, I wonder if it is all there.
That cross cut jig looks interesting.
Router
So, ideally, a 1/4 and a 1/2 inch router right?
To start with, I am thinking a 1/2 inch is better.
With the 1/4 being about more delicate work?
(my tool of choice is a club hammer)
I like the idea of using the router for the final cut.
Removes any doubts I have about my skill saw. Thanks.
I hadn't considered a router before. Let alone thought about it being more accurate.
Time to think about which router to get.
I see a plunge cut base mentioned.
So, first decision is 1/4 or 1/2 right? (I am thinkling 1/2 to start me)
Then next is plunge base or fixed, right? Plunge seems to make more sense, right?
Most larger routers are compatible with both 1/2" and 1/4" collets and you can buy a plunge base for a router that comes equipped with a fixed base. Think of it as buying the right router that has the accessories you need. A second router will be an advantage once you mount the first one in a router table. I have a Porter Cable 690 series that works well for me.
I think investing in a ‘good’ table saw will pay dividends down the road. I have a concrete floor in my garage and my table saw on a base with wheels. In fact, all my big tools are on portable bases. When I need something I wheel it out. When finished I tuck it into a corner to make the most of my space.
Regards,
Dan
Buy Mini Mobile Base Shop Fox 600lb at Busy Bee Tools
Regards,
Dan
Buy Mini Mobile Base Shop Fox 600lb at Busy Bee Tools
It's been awhile for me but I think these were highly regarded and inexpensive maybe 10-15 years ago:
Swappable fixed and plunge base:
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EV...efinements=p_89:Bosch&rnid=551236&s=hi&sr=1-7
Trim router:
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1-Hors...efinements=p_89:Bosch&rnid=551236&s=hi&sr=1-8
And there are small Bosch router tables, not sure if they were considered any good