One of those two will be fine, just buy a selection of tips at the same time.
Amazon has a good price on the Hakko. The Weller current model is:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WE101..._rd_wg=MAy8R&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1
From the start use only the best solder type, 63/37.
https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-63...ords=solder+kester&qid=1610651718&s=hi&sr=1-2
Amazon has a good price on the Hakko. The Weller current model is:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WE101..._rd_wg=MAy8R&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1
From the start use only the best solder type, 63/37.
https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-63...ords=solder+kester&qid=1610651718&s=hi&sr=1-2
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For 2 years, I have an old Weller TCP and a Quicko T12 side by side. The Weller doesn't get a lot of attention these days...
I use a Weller WE-1010.
I'm satisfied with it.
I use it for 60/40 lead solder and lead free.
Since the tips are separate from the heater and the temperature sensor, you need to adjust the temperature offset if you change from a short tip to a longer one.
If ease of use is your thing, you may want to skip the Hakko FX888D. Even Dave from EEVBlog (who seems to love Hakko) admits that the menu structure is difficult to use. From watching him use it in a video, it looks like it'd drive me nuts.
The menus on the WE-1010 are clear and simple.
I deactivated the auto-shutdown on mine. If you basically just solder for hours on end, the auto-shutdown is a good idea to make sure you don't leave it on a high temperature for too long. When I am doing hobby things (build something, try it out, troubleshoot, modifiy, repeat,) then I find it always shuts off just when I need it again - no matter what time I set it, there's always some troubleshooting step that takes a little longer than the timeout.
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If anybody tells you the WE-1010 is bad because it doesn't have a primary side fuse, ignore them. The WE-1010 has a UL listed safety transformer and therefore doesn't need a fuse. Fuses go between UL listed items and non-UL listed items to keep the non-UL listed items from setting your house on fire. UL listed items are tested and proved that they will not set your house on fire in any conditions. The WE-1010 has a fuse between the UL listed transformer and the (non-UL listed) rest of the station, as it should.
Your washing machine, dryer, and dishwasher don't have fuses, either - and nobody is worried.
Dave from EEVBlog managed to destroy a WE-1010 by plugging a 110V model into 220V. It smoked and it destroyed the transformer, but it didn't catch on fire.
I'm satisfied with it.
I use it for 60/40 lead solder and lead free.
Since the tips are separate from the heater and the temperature sensor, you need to adjust the temperature offset if you change from a short tip to a longer one.
If ease of use is your thing, you may want to skip the Hakko FX888D. Even Dave from EEVBlog (who seems to love Hakko) admits that the menu structure is difficult to use. From watching him use it in a video, it looks like it'd drive me nuts.
The menus on the WE-1010 are clear and simple.
I deactivated the auto-shutdown on mine. If you basically just solder for hours on end, the auto-shutdown is a good idea to make sure you don't leave it on a high temperature for too long. When I am doing hobby things (build something, try it out, troubleshoot, modifiy, repeat,) then I find it always shuts off just when I need it again - no matter what time I set it, there's always some troubleshooting step that takes a little longer than the timeout.
-------
If anybody tells you the WE-1010 is bad because it doesn't have a primary side fuse, ignore them. The WE-1010 has a UL listed safety transformer and therefore doesn't need a fuse. Fuses go between UL listed items and non-UL listed items to keep the non-UL listed items from setting your house on fire. UL listed items are tested and proved that they will not set your house on fire in any conditions. The WE-1010 has a fuse between the UL listed transformer and the (non-UL listed) rest of the station, as it should.
Your washing machine, dryer, and dishwasher don't have fuses, either - and nobody is worried.
Dave from EEVBlog managed to destroy a WE-1010 by plugging a 110V model into 220V. It smoked and it destroyed the transformer, but it didn't catch on fire.
I second the recommendation to use good solder.
The (German) brand and type I've used for years doesn't appear to be available on amazon.com or the usual suppliers in the US (I checked Digikey and Mouser.)
For what it's worth, I use these two types of solder available here in Germany:
We used Stannol when I worked in a Motorola factory here in Germany, and the small company I worked for after that (all previous Motorola employees) also used Stannol.
I still use Stannol for my hobby stuff.
I prefer to use really small diameter solder wire. I have two rolls (lead free and lead,) each 0.5 mm diameter. It makes soldering small stuff easier. For big stuff, you just feed in a longer length.
The (German) brand and type I've used for years doesn't appear to be available on amazon.com or the usual suppliers in the US (I checked Digikey and Mouser.)
For what it's worth, I use these two types of solder available here in Germany:
- Stannol 535236 - 60 percent tin, 39 percent lead, 1 percent copper
- Stannol 599102 - 99.3 percernt tin, 0.7 percent copper
We used Stannol when I worked in a Motorola factory here in Germany, and the small company I worked for after that (all previous Motorola employees) also used Stannol.
I still use Stannol for my hobby stuff.
I prefer to use really small diameter solder wire. I have two rolls (lead free and lead,) each 0.5 mm diameter. It makes soldering small stuff easier. For big stuff, you just feed in a longer length.
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I've had the FX-888D for a couple of years now and really happy with it. It holds the temperature quite nicely and I don't generally change the settings that often. You can set up a range of preset temperatures if you do switch around, but I'd definitely need to take a good look at the manual to get that set up.
There are a decent range of tips available for not too much $$$ from places like Farnell (Newark) / Mouser etc.
As DHM mentioned, just make sure you buy from a legitimate source and don't try to save a few $$ on auction sites.
There are a decent range of tips available for not too much $$$ from places like Farnell (Newark) / Mouser etc.
As DHM mentioned, just make sure you buy from a legitimate source and don't try to save a few $$ on auction sites.
Nobody is making fake Wellers for the same reason nobody is making fake JBCs or fake Metcals.
Hakkos are (for whatever reason) popular with hobbyists, and hobbyists aren't as particular about where they buy as long as they get what appears to be the same device their buddies are using. Hobbyists will buy from fleabay or alibaba or anyplace that promises a lower price. That makes the Hakko a better target for fakes.
JBC, Metcal, and Weller aren't as popular among hobbyists, and companies using them buy from regular distributors. There's not enough demand for them from people who would buy a fake, so there's not enough to be made selling fakes.
Hakkos are (for whatever reason) popular with hobbyists, and hobbyists aren't as particular about where they buy as long as they get what appears to be the same device their buddies are using. Hobbyists will buy from fleabay or alibaba or anyplace that promises a lower price. That makes the Hakko a better target for fakes.
JBC, Metcal, and Weller aren't as popular among hobbyists, and companies using them buy from regular distributors. There's not enough demand for them from people who would buy a fake, so there's not enough to be made selling fakes.
After some thought I've more or less decided on the following,
Hakko FX-888D Digital Soldering Station
Thanks to everyone for their input.
Regards,
Dan
Hakko FX-888D Digital Soldering Station
Thanks to everyone for their input.
Regards,
Dan
Or......in the spirit of this forum, could always go DIY. I've recently put this temperature-controlled station together: 24v/50W iron with thermocouple, 24v/3A PSU, Arduino + regulator + MOSFET + MAX6675 thermocouple interface + LCD display + serial interface + case; Closed-loop, Idle and Manual (open-loop) modes. Happy to share/write up if interested.
- Rich
- Rich
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What he said ^. I bought an 888D years ago and cannot fault it at all, works great. BUT there are cheap knock offs out there so dont buy one from eBay or the like, if it seems too cheap to be true, you know why.....
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